Author Topic: Eagles Way beta? Pete? also, what is good with beta pages?  (Read 725 times)

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Offline Erik Sloan

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Eagles Way beta? Pete? also, what is good with beta pages?
« on: April 16, 2013, 01:28:14 pm »
Yo Gang,

I'm making a new Eagles Way topo, and the last ascent that anyone submitted an updated rack for is 2006. Seems a while ago and the pin rack sounds a lot heavier than I would bring if I was going up there. Anyone done it recently? Pete I don't seem to have a scribbled on topo from you for this route. Do you have one? (I love Eagle's Way but it's season is short if Horsetail goes late and then it gets really hot as it often does. Todd Offenback climbed it in '99 with disabled climber Wayne Willoughby, awesome times. Went back up to replace bolts mostly solo and ended up bailing from the top of 8 or 9. Stellar route but don't do it too late or you'll end up a bad waterfall story;)

Along these lines, how can we make 'beta' type pages better? I created the Summit Register feature on yosemitebigwall.com to try and improve on the idea of beta pages, because most folks I talked to don't want to read too much beta but enjoy reading summit posts. Should there just be a 'latest rack' section for each aid route, where you can just post up what you used without giving away too much about the route?

Thanks,
erik

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Eagles Way beta? Pete? also, what is good with beta pages?
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2013, 06:10:47 pm »
I like beta to be specifically about hardware and/or safety issues

I think that especially with the goal of YBW.com to showcase more obscure routes that the beta section would benefit from anchor/rivet conditions so people that are into early ascents have a better idea of how much hardware for replacement might be needed. This is especially good for people like me that have really started to enjoy soloing but balk at creating solo anchors off of some of the stuff I've seen on routes like Horni-Johnson (the questionable machine heads with hangers and rusted spinning 1/4 inch bolts w/ hangers that were at the start of the Mean Street crux were frightening to say the least and made for the lead of that pitch being a bit more heady than it needed to be had I had a belayer. With a beta section talking about the anchors on that route a soloist can be better prepared to have extra screamers and weighted bags for such a situation)

Is it possible to setup the beta submission field with default checkboxes or radio buttons for such things like anchor conditions/ rivet conditions/ loose blocks/ possible clean vs required nailing route/ ledge required/ modified hooks helpful/ etc so that people are more likely to address such issues?
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Eagles Way beta? Pete? also, what is good with beta pages?
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2013, 06:27:29 pm »
Good thoughts Kev,

I'm hoping getting dates on all the racks on the topo, as well as the FA info with the title, will help people realize the likely state of the anchors on any given route. For example I'm hoping to do Keel Haul soon and if at the top of the topo it listed the FA info to tell me that the route is 1972 vintage, and the Rack section is labeled 1972 Rack I would know immediately that there are few if any recorded ascents of the route and that likely the anchors are looking like 40 year old outdoor workers.

I like your ideas to streamline the beta submission.

keep it comin,
e

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Eagles Way beta? Pete? also, what is good with beta pages?
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2013, 06:44:13 pm »
I set up a simplemachines forum on my website to quickly check to see if a default post template was possible but it doesn't seem to be on that phpforum install. Not sure what you're using for your setup
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Eagles Way beta? Pete? also, what is good with beta pages?
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2013, 06:59:02 pm »
kev, any mods available on the smf site?

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Eagles Way beta? Pete? also, what is good with beta pages?
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2013, 07:48:37 pm »
What do you mean by mods munge? Sorry to ask.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.