Author Topic: So-Called "fixed gear"  (Read 1716 times)

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skully

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So-Called "fixed gear"
« on: April 24, 2009, 08:19:48 pm »
Just wonderin'......Do you try to clean it?
Or just clip & go?
I haven't been up El Cap in a shamefully Long time, but I really tried to take Everything with.
Scored a bunch of useful stuff that way, & cleaned out a ton of mank.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: So-Called "fixed gear"
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2009, 10:18:27 am »
i like to untie decent condition cordage from things and stuff it in my pocket like some kind of pack rat.  I have done that a few times now, and used it later on and was pretty happy about it.


On Southern Man I was bummed that I didn't take the time to clean more shit out.  Some pitons and such.  On Skull Queen I really wanted to clean up the copper head mess all over.  But I didn't.

On South Face of Watkins I pulled a piton out with my fingers up on the last pitch.  I kept that bad boy, it was old and manky, a great souvenir.

Offline lambone

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Re: So-Called "fixed gear"
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2009, 11:03:02 am »
really depends how "fixed" it is. Generally I try to clean up a route, but with heads and old pins I just un-clip and go.

Offline Rags

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Re: So-Called "fixed gear"
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2009, 12:00:13 pm »
I'm in Lambone's camp. every "fixed" piece is different. Why rip out a solid pin if its the only alternative? Someone else comes along a places another. Just wears the rock. On the other hand if its cleanable and can be done with clean gear, ya pull it.

I clean tat, so should the guy behind me. that shit gets old, I rarely trust it, so bring your own and clean it. Heads are another issue. Again, no point in pulling something someone else will place anyway. I will risk a whipper on old heads even with bad cables (with consideration). If it holds fine, if it doesn't or the cable breaks, it should be cleaned.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline KevinW

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Re: So-Called "fixed gear"
« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2009, 09:09:51 pm »
This is one of those things that has always baffled me, why people feel because it's a "piton", it must come out! I saw a post on rc.com of "this antique piton I found" complete with a photo of the BD lost arrow he took it upon himself to remove, (that looked no different then the ones on my rack). He should have entitled it "the fixed pro I stole". Even if a fixed pin has become loose due to freeze/thaw or whatever, why not move it a bit and re-set it? Pitons have to be in pretty bad shape to be regarded as mank, and are usually much easier to judge the integrity of then a bolt. The other one I come across is where people feel the need to drive a fixed pin in a little further, with enough people thinking the same, you soon have a pin that is not only unusable as it is impossible to clip or even sling, but has now become a permanent, useless, and non-removable fixture.

skully

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Re: So-Called "fixed gear"
« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2009, 09:29:02 pm »
Well, that's kinda where I was headed.....to wit: Many piton protected spots can be protected in a variety of ways, and the piton should be cleaned, depending on its type and usage.
Now this is a generalization, and I've been told(and believe it) to beware those, so I think there is a place for some.......but most are superfluous.
Another time needed them.
Humans are pretty lazy monkeys, though. Lazy= easy. Whack, whack, whack.
Heads are a whole 'nuther can of worms. Ask Mikey.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: So-Called "fixed gear"
« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2009, 10:57:09 pm »
The heads I am talking about on SQ are really useless shits.  All but a handful had killer C1 cams or nuts above or below.  It was strange.

skully

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Re: So-Called "fixed gear"
« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2009, 03:28:32 pm »
You know, I did that route a LONG time ago, & there weren't Any fixed heads.
Way too many Z-Macs, but I think Bosque was drinking & drillin'.
definite hazard, that.

Offline lambone

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Re: So-Called "fixed gear"
« Reply #8 on: April 28, 2009, 04:33:33 pm »
Seems like people nail heads in some really stupid places these days. I dun know, maybe it's allways been that way.

I've allways viewed them as a last resort. They are time consuming to place, take a lot of energy if placing over your head, and they just aren't very confidence inspiring. I think I have placed 3 or 4 on 13 EC walls, and allways felt I hand no other choice.