Author Topic: Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey  (Read 692 times)

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Offline Erik Sloan

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Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey
« on: October 04, 2013, 10:48:55 am »
Oh Baby, we're down to the last few El Cap topos. So close!

Do I understand the FA history that Slater and Bballer finished on the Sea of Dreams, and when you and Xavior repeated it(which number?) you established the variation out the Cyclops? Wally Barker repeated the Cyclops Eye variation. He is the only person I've seen do it, but the Reid guide doesn't have it drawn in the topo so it makes sense that someone would finish on the Sea instead of doing a short, low angle pitch to the low angled NA.

What year did you guys climb that? The belay 17 in the REid guide should be in the middle of the Cyclops, no? and then 18 should be at the end of the roof or where the NA 19 is?

thanks man!

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2013, 12:07:33 pm »
Ooops, found the page with the beta you sent.

I'm not sure I understand your new pitches though. It looks like you climbed from the base of the Cyclops to right below the Igloo in 2 pitches. Is that right?

Offline BASE1361

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Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2013, 08:52:35 am »
Read once that Bill Denz was on the FA with Greg Child? Got to a high point and came down? Any truth to the man the myth the legend? Bill Denz?
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Offline cobbledik

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Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2013, 11:48:26 am »
"For the first nine pitches Slater and Barbella followed the line of a previous attempt by Peter Mafeld, Greg Child, and Auggie Klein."

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Offline BASE1361

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Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2013, 05:13:27 pm »
There was an article in Climbing Magazine several years ago, written by Greg Child on the original attempt of the route but I’m too lazy to look for it. The route was originally called “Heart of Darkness” and there was a story about a dude (Bill Denz?) who led the Psycho Killer pitch consisting of a bunch of bat-hooks – this pitch later became the “Welcome to Wyoming” pitch.
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Offline cobbledik

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Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2013, 07:10:59 pm »
Found it. Shows up in Postcards From The Ledge. Greg Child excerpts from the Climbing Article. (Sorry for the highlighted search terms.)

POSTCARDS FROM THE LEDGE Author: Greg Child 224 Pages, 978-0-89886-753-4





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Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey
« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2013, 08:19:14 pm »
Oh sweet, I didn't realize that you were't in the first attempt at the route Duecy.

You guys repeated it in '89, which ascent was that?

My question is still if your drawing is for real that you climbed from the base of the Cyclops to pitch 22 on the NA in two pitches? Seems possible, but must be long pitches so worth askin. How long were those pitches?