Author Topic: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!  (Read 1165 times)

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Offline cobbledik

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Hey guys. New Routage. Just finished the topo. I'll get around to the TR soonish.

Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Lost Brother
(It's a soft A3 though, more technical nailing than dangerous fall potential)

Lots of thin beaking down low and splitter corners and flakes up high with a soft lardy center of too many rivets on a pitch that just didn't pan out. Broke over eight 1/4" bits and two 3/8" bits (I used carbide tipped SDS up there because that's what I had on hand) on that bullet hard rock. A bit of looseness, but nothing you wouldn't expect off the nailed path.

These docs are smaller than the full size. Email me if you want the full sized version of any or all.





« Last Edit: June 25, 2014, 06:26:31 pm by mungeclimber »
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2014, 02:16:36 pm »
sweet stokeness of House Choss!


But what titleage do you bring to bear?  Who do we throw our loyalty behind?


Do we just refer to you as the King in the South?  lol


Offline RP3

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2014, 04:01:03 pm »
HA!

The King of the South!
The King of the South!
The King of the South!
The King of the South!

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2014, 10:28:59 am »
Very cool Kev!  Nice and steep.  Beaking to freedom!

Sweet topo

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2014, 12:01:56 pm »
You may refer to me as Jaqen H'ghar of House Bosque, known far and while by our sigil showing a carriage bolt over a bloody thumb.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Skully

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2014, 11:35:44 am »
Cool route & topo, Kev....Is that to the left of Prowd( Bryan Law route)?
He & another fella, Dean Miller, said there were more things to do over there...... 8-)

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #6 on: June 28, 2014, 06:08:23 pm »
It's to the left of Prowd (the anchors for Prowd show up in the topo) there's def at least one more obvious line on the face to the right of my route. Not much to the left of Call of the Yeti (which is just left of my route) because that's where gabel's freeclimbs are. "Magic and loss"  and "proud" cover most of the arÍte area but I'd say there's still good lines to the right of those climbs although there are bleached out lines swinging in the wind out there so who knows what's been done, abandoned, not done, etc.

The real goods are found behind lost brother but I'll hold that beta to myself for a bit ;)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Skully

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2014, 01:21:17 pm »
Ah, I should pay better attention.....that's what I get for trying to view the site on my tiny phone screen.

thanks, Cobble.
« Last Edit: July 02, 2014, 03:43:29 pm by Skully »

Offline Skully

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2014, 08:23:08 am »
I think this will fill the bill nicely. Fresh and not too serious.  Maybe hit something else after. We'll see how it goes....more later.

Offline RP3

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #9 on: August 25, 2014, 04:48:30 pm »
"there's still good lines to the right of those climbs although there are bleached out lines swinging in the wind out there so who knows what's been done, abandoned, not done, etc."

I believe those are artifacts of some Sean Jones free climb attempts long ago. I hope someone goes and nabs those lines and gets rid of that garbage.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2014, 05:43:32 pm »
Not gunna lie, those lines look sick. I wouldn't want to (not could I for that matter) try to be up there trying to FA a free route through those lines though.

For those that are interested...
« Last Edit: August 25, 2014, 06:25:50 pm by cobbledik »
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2014, 09:46:16 pm »
rock looks mighty good there.

Taft granite has features like edges, knobs, and such?

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Blood & Coin 5.7 A3 - Even newer & just as tasty bigwall action!
« Reply #12 on: August 25, 2014, 11:44:11 pm »
The rock I saw was featured, yes. Both on my route's side and Prowd's side/arete.  Over where Sean's fixed lines are, who knows?
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.