Author Topic: Dear Bigwall forum members...  (Read 1491 times)

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Offline Gagner

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Re: Dear Bigwall forum members...
« Reply #30 on: August 03, 2014, 07:43:53 pm »
Been gone awhile and just came across this thread.  I gotta say Mark is right about how beat out and fixed the trade routes have become.  It is amazing what people do to just "get up stuff."  Kinda sad, but I guess expected when you have so many people doing walls.  I climbed El Cap for the first time 35 years ago, and my how the sport has evolved.

Also, I have a hard time with the rating system - I mean A1 is pretty straight forward, and maybe A2 is the same, but beyond that there are several factors that come in to play - your personal experience, the gear you have with you at that moment - is it right, and your mind set.  Frankly, I tend to agree with Bridwell's rating system of NTB, PDH, and DFU.  Pretty much covers it for me.  When EE and I did Reticent last year I thought it was all NTB, though I also thought the "Natural" pitch, the old crux that I led, was DFU for a short section.  However, you would have to try pretty hard to peg the ledge. EE led the pitch off Wino Tower and cleaning I thought it looked NTB, with the exception of one placement behind a loose flake just below the roof - you remember that one Mark?   I told Eric S. I didn't think Reticent was A4+, or frankly even A4, but he wanted to maintain the rating in his book to keep the riff raff off, which is hard to argue with.

In the end I do walls because they are bitchin to be up on, and I enjoy the personal and mental challenge.  But really, living on a wall is sublime and I just really love that environment and the work ethos required to succeed.