Author Topic: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?  (Read 1694 times)

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Offline dindolino32

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suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« on: August 06, 2014, 12:19:28 am »
Hi there,
I have been trying to plan our next big wall trip.  So far we have completed the column twice (once the typical dinner ledge bivy, and once all in a day), and did the west face of leaning tower.  I have also dabbled in some c2+ shorter climbs and can freeclimb mid to upper 5.10.  I am now trying to figure out a good 3rd  weekend route during the next month or two.  I was thinking of the Lost Arrow Direct but am worried that we will burn up in the summer sun on any south facing routes. 
Any suggestions?  Oh, I am looking for something reasonably located near San Francisco.
Thanks in advance for your advice! 
« Last Edit: August 06, 2014, 12:23:00 am by dindolino32 »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2014, 01:25:03 am »
If you can nail A2 then Jericho would be the perfect weekend wall right now. In the shade most of the day.

If there's a break in the heat then Prow would be right up your alley as well.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2014, 11:12:48 am by cobbledik »
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Skully

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2014, 12:42:47 pm »
Afroman is good, Zodiac or the Trip are well within your abilities, or maybe a Lost Brother route?

Offline dindolino32

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2014, 01:25:16 pm »
Oops, I should have mentioned that I've never nailed, I've only clean aided. I got some ball nuts but don't know if that would get me up jericho. Oh and skulls, don't think A3 routes are my thing for my 3rd wall, considering my lack of experience
« Last Edit: August 06, 2014, 01:38:30 pm by dindolino32 »

Offline Skully

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2014, 01:40:00 pm »
They're easier than you think, man. Earnest reply to a query. I've always been told the best way to get experience is to keep throwing yourself at things. You'll be amazed at what you're capable of.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2014, 01:41:45 pm by Skully »

Offline dindolino32

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2014, 01:43:21 pm »
Ok fair enough. I'll give them some thought

Offline mhudon

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2014, 03:28:07 pm »
They're easier than you think, man. Earnest reply to a query. I've always been told the best way to get experience is to keep throwing yourself at things. You'll be amazed at what you're capable of.

True dat.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2014, 03:52:48 pm »
Afroman would not be something a new nailer could do in a weekend. You'd need a large iron rack (large from  the pov of someone who doesn't nail) and a portaledge.

OP, do you have a portaledge? That's a huge consideration for us to give an appropriate suggestion.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2014, 03:54:44 pm »
The only route on Lost Brother that would suit the OP would maybe be Call of the Yeti, but I wouldn't suggest anyone climb that route as it was put up with questionable (there's no question actually) ethics.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline dindolino32

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2014, 05:31:59 pm »
Yes I have a portaledge. No iron, never hammered. I have 2 smaller beaks that I have hand placed, a variety of hooks and cam hooks. Offset cams/nuts and ball nuts. I rarely use the ball nuts since I got small cams though
« Last Edit: August 06, 2014, 05:39:45 pm by dindolino32 »

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2014, 06:05:36 pm »
There are several routes that only require a little nailing, so it would be good for you to get a taste of that stuff. For clean routes Liberty Cap is good, but hot right now.

I'd say do the Prow, goes in the shade in the afternoon and can be windy and cool, you'd get to place your beaks and learn more aid tricks, use your portaledge. There are not a ton of weekend walls!

Erik
erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Offline dindolino32

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2014, 06:59:50 pm »
I was actually thinking about the Prow too.  Didn't know it would get afternoon shade which would be nice and I have already tried and failed on it a yr ago.  Got to P3 before realizing I need to purchase some offsets.  I think that is prob also best because I know the approach since it's right next to the South Face. 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.  I will put the others on my tick list as well.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2014, 09:50:26 pm »
Take 2 days off around a weekend and get on Lurking Fear. Heat waves be damned! er, nevermind, one has to be an idiot to get on el cap in a heat wave.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2014, 11:20:13 pm »
Another obvious choice would be Gold Wall. Hot but doable. Freeclimb what you want, aid what you want.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline lambone

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2014, 11:58:25 pm »
Do the Prow. It's fun and pretty much a right of passage. It goes in the shade by early afternoon.

Offline Skully

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #15 on: August 07, 2014, 12:51:56 pm »
Sounds like the Prow to me too. Have fun...steep and straightforward....good shtuff, man.
« Last Edit: August 07, 2014, 02:30:53 pm by Skully »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #16 on: August 07, 2014, 02:11:06 pm »
worthy route

Offline dindolino32

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #17 on: August 26, 2014, 09:37:17 pm »
We are getting stoked to get on the Prow this upcoming weekend!  Any thoughts on rapping the route VS North Dome Gully?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #18 on: August 27, 2014, 12:41:56 am »
Can you rap from the top down without gear being left behind?   

Either way, I vaguely recall some of the pitches leaning to the right which means maybe some directionals for the mid pitches. NDG isn't that bad in daylight. Just long. If you rap, you'll be tempted not to top out.


Either way have fun!


Offline cobbledik

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #19 on: August 27, 2014, 11:54:33 am »
If you don't want to do the North Dome Gulley, just rap Royal Arches. Easy peasy.

I talked about my experiences with a pig in tow here:
http://www.failfalling.com/ClimbingBlog/hiking-the-nd-descent-vs-rapping-royal-arches-when-topping-out-washington-column/
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline lambone

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #20 on: August 27, 2014, 12:01:27 pm »
Don't rap the Prow, unless you rap rom Tapir Terrace.

I rapped the South Face once after a push and it was pretty straight forward.   

Offline RP3

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #21 on: August 27, 2014, 12:53:57 pm »
I have never rapped the Prow, but a friend of mine has. He said it was quite lame. NDG is not that bad...and a good train up for the East Ledges!

Offline Skully

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #22 on: August 27, 2014, 05:50:57 pm »
I rapped the South face when I soloed Skull Queen...it wasn't bad, but it could be with traffic climbing up...NDG isn't that bad, just tedious. Do not rap the Prow...it could get very involved.
I hope you have a glorious time. :mrgreen:

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #23 on: August 29, 2014, 11:26:30 pm »
Prow, Tangerine Trip, Mideast Crisis are all excellent non-nailing routes (bring some heads and minimal iron for missing fixed gear).  Get some of those under your belt and then move on to Zodiac.

NDG is not too bad.  If your load is big, you can ferry your crap down in stages to the rappel, shortly after that you get a proper shaded trail and the heavy load is not so bad.

Offline Skully

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #24 on: August 30, 2014, 01:45:55 pm »
There's a rappel? Why? Been up and down many times sans raps.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #25 on: August 30, 2014, 07:43:56 pm »
There's a short rap you can do if you want to toward the end of the slabs if you don't choose to head more to the left. Saves about no time but saves a bit of leg strength I would assume. There's also the possibility of a short rap at the 20' buttress that you have to downclimb before the slabs if you don't cut your bag loose and hope for the best. When I did it I had a heavy solo bag on me and couldn't manage the lower slab moves with the weight. Realized I could have gone more to the left later on.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline dindolino32

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #26 on: September 02, 2014, 08:24:09 pm »
Success was had!  What a great weekend!  I'll have to post a report soon.  Thanks for the suggestions everyone! :lol:

Offline cobbledik

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #27 on: September 03, 2014, 12:13:40 am »
looking forward to it
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Skully

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #28 on: September 03, 2014, 12:17:45 am »
Excellent.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« Reply #29 on: September 03, 2014, 11:01:14 am »
More trip reports!