Author Topic: Route Shopping  (Read 1225 times)

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Offline Skully

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Route Shopping
« on: August 08, 2014, 08:21:10 pm »
Well, my prospective partner for my upcoming had to bail.....something about a job & a life. Those things are annoying. So I've got some time coming up, I'm taking September off. I guess I'm shopping. Hmmm.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2014, 01:02:00 am »
Off the beaten path, or El Cap?

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #2 on: August 09, 2014, 07:51:17 am »
Actually I could go either way. I wanted to go to Half Dome originally. I AM coming right off the couch, or the drivers seat, anyway. Double hmm.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2014, 10:58:33 am »
You should jump on Blood & Coin on Lost Brother or Blue Collar on Hourglass Wall. Just saying ;)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2014, 01:11:57 pm »
So do a good, fresh 2nd ascent? Hmm.
That intrigues me greatly.

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2014, 07:48:45 am »
I'm also considering a solo....hey Lambone or Gagner...you guys have done Zenyatta. Maybe some vague beta?

Offline lambone

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2014, 12:22:15 pm »
Zenyatta was fun and would be a good solo, I did it with briguy and we swapped leads. Nice direct line. I think I preferred Shortest Straw but they are both good. The heads-up sections on SS are a little more 'heady' then ZM.

I don't know that there is much specific beta I could give. It's pretty much solid A3 on every pitch. You hook on some loose stuff now and then, but I don't recall it being as loose as it's old reputation.

The Lightning Bolt and 9'Oclock roofs are really cool wild pitches. The 9'Oclock may be the crux of the route imo, Brian was doing some acrobatic aiding up in there.

If you fire the first pitch you will be good the whole way up. If you are puckered on p1, well then you are in for a wild ride.

Here are some pics to get you psyched.

p1


Rapping off p1, I have always loved this pic


Hooking on p5, if it's not bomber its the wrong spot for your hook.


Pitch below the Lightning Bolt


Storm Bivi


After the storm


Cool Stripes


LBR


Typical hooks off the belay




9'Oclock


Bri gettin horizontal in the roof


One of the few splitters


Some funky rock


Somewhere Up high, Pete's junkshow up high that we had to tunnel through. Wouldn't wish that clusterfuck on my worst enemy but at least we scored a bottle of wine out of the deal...


Bri taking er to the top


I dunno about dem Koreans
« Last Edit: August 11, 2014, 12:47:54 pm by lambone »

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2014, 02:29:46 pm »
Sweet shots, Matt! Yeah, I'd mentioned to Brad when we talked last that I hadn't soloed El Cap yet & he suggested ZM or Bad Seed. Interesting, challenging & steep.
 Man, I can feel the stoke coming on....

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #8 on: August 11, 2014, 03:56:23 pm »
Bad Seed is on my next-solo short list.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2014, 04:43:03 pm »
Not cool on the graffiti.

I know some artifacts have been attached by the FA team, but straight up characters chiseled into the face? Big characters to boot.

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #10 on: August 11, 2014, 05:44:50 pm »
I don't think they're chiseled Rob. Painted on is STILL bad, though.

Offline lambone

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #11 on: August 12, 2014, 09:39:46 am »
No they wee scraped into the rock by a pin or something. Right at the last belay.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2014, 09:41:33 am by lambone »

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #12 on: August 12, 2014, 10:14:54 am »
Hideous... think it can be erased?

Offline mhudon

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #13 on: August 12, 2014, 04:59:20 pm »
I hammered in it for a little while when I was up there. It would take hours to erase the whole thing and then it would still be an ugly while square.

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #14 on: August 12, 2014, 05:44:25 pm »
Pretty sure that's a memorial, there was a thread on the taco about it.

"locals" or heroes doing the same all over the valley for decades is the real shame.  Lots of examples.


Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #15 on: August 12, 2014, 06:14:47 pm »
a lot of those stealth memorials aren't at the top of trade routes, tho.


Offline offset

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #16 on: August 12, 2014, 06:24:31 pm »
while i haven't seen that memorial first hand.... only pictures.  i'd say it is the exception and not the rule.  not sure what all the fuss is about.  if you are in eye-shot of that memorial - you and your kit are more of an eye sore than it.     kind of like complaining about traffic..from your car in traffic. 

it was only temporary, but i remember a recent memorial chalked up on the muir in a tom evans picture.  it was for a 'local' and everyone loved it.     

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #17 on: August 12, 2014, 07:00:48 pm »
Slippery slope, that.

Offline lambone

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #18 on: August 12, 2014, 10:35:00 pm »
I wasn't trying to make a fuss about it fwiw

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #19 on: August 13, 2014, 06:40:00 am »
Not your fault, Lambone...I made the fuss. Sorry everyone...moving on! :-D

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #20 on: August 14, 2014, 07:37:32 am »
Geeks
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Skully

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #21 on: September 01, 2014, 04:59:54 am »
Last working day for a month.....on to the Valley!
« Last Edit: September 01, 2014, 07:27:47 am by Skully »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #22 on: September 01, 2014, 10:06:20 am »
There's no better feeling. When I was a teacher, waking up on the last day before summer vacation was happier than the actual first day (because I was invariably hung over when I woke for the first day of summer vacation)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Route Shopping
« Reply #23 on: September 02, 2014, 08:18:17 am »
Have fun, Skully! Be safe and good luck.

I'm leaving for a month in Colorado tonight and heading to the Valley for a month after that!