Author Topic: Soloist or grigri for aid soloing  (Read 613 times)

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Offline Baltoro

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Soloist or grigri for aid soloing
« on: August 14, 2014, 09:09:32 am »
So I've used an unmodified grigri for years as an aid soloing belay device. With occasional prusiks loops I've had no major issues with it, I've taken big falls on it and overall it's been fine. My one concern is that even a short stretch of mandatory free climbing shuts me down or there's an easy section that could be aided or freed and I end up aiding it due to the grigri and it's inability to feed quickly enough.

So I'm wondering what do the rest of you use and prefer. Anyone have a good number of pitches with both setups and care to compare and contrast for me? Thanks in advance.

-Ryan
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
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Offline lambone

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Re: Soloist or grigri for aid soloing
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2014, 11:19:44 am »
I use the gri-gri and mostly pick routes that don't have much if any free climbing. If i do have to free climb I through out a bunch of slack and get really cared. I hate free climbing on aid routes.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Soloist or grigri for aid soloing
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2014, 01:59:47 pm »
For any sort of free-climbing... Solo-aid sucks. Unmodded grigri sucks. Soloist works but sucks because it's weird to have the thing always up at your chest and since it isn't 100% on catching inverted falls, it sucks.

Silent partner is worth its weight in gold (which would be a lot of gold because dayum, hefty). Set it, forget it, send. Unless there's a penji/tension, then you'll need to pull out the needed slack and throw your gri on the line to do that. (but you've got the gri on you already to rap the haul line back to the lower anchor so no great loss.)

Don't want to carry a gri and a silent partner? Fine. Throw your atc on the line and tie it off to achieve that sweet penji, whatever you want.

For me, I'll take a device that might cause me a little more work to get something done every now and then rather than a device that makes me not want to do something commonplace.

But it's so expensive! Well, I can say this, every time I've been up on a wall without a silent partner and had to go free (the first pitch of Wet Denim especially), that extra $$$ didn't seem as much as it did in front of my computer. After the third time I was up on a wall without one, I decided that a couple of weeks of scrimping was worth it. Now that I have it, I've never had the experience of wishing I had a different device, so that's worth the cost. Or not, YMMV.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Soloist or grigri for aid soloing
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2014, 09:19:20 pm »
aren't you supposed to be writing resume?  :)

Offline RP3

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Re: Soloist or grigri for aid soloing
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2014, 11:23:03 pm »
Get a job Kev...

Offline mhudon

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Re: Soloist or grigri for aid soloing
« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2014, 07:55:45 am »
Silent Partner. It's simply the best solo belay device out there.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Soloist or grigri for aid soloing
« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2014, 11:54:57 pm »
I hate every single one of you guys.


THIS hate POST HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY MODERATED by Mungie

;)
« Last Edit: August 21, 2014, 04:24:40 pm by mungeclimber »
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.