Author Topic: Expando Insights Needed  (Read 1267 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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Expando Insights Needed
« on: September 20, 2006, 03:52:38 pm »
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=256078&f=0&b=0

cross posted


"Ok, I keep twitching on expando thoughts. so i'm starting this here thread.

Post up your tips on expando if you would.

Also, links to threads with good expando tips would be appreciated as well.

thx much!

M"

Offline Feral Rat

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Expando Insights Needed
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2006, 09:21:47 pm »
If nailing either pound one in and get it to spread out or nail lightly.  Always stay clipped into multiple pieces.  Also do not forget to tap in the one behind you and in front I just kept moving back and forth.   Cams make expando much better.
Here's ta sweat in your eye

Offline buffalohorn

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Expando Insights Needed
« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2006, 12:14:57 pm »
First rule: If you can get by with cams and passive gear,go for it! However if this is not an immediate option, drive a good sized pin in to expand the feature. Continue past your pin on any clean gear you can get in. If your committed to nailing, always clip in with your daisie then drive the pin in. If the previous pin blows, your clipped in to the new piece. Also don't get tunnel vision. Look all around, you might get hooks or something else in too. On South Seas the expando pitch was fairly tame because the first three arrows I placed expanded the flake enough to get in small cams and nuts. Inverted leepers were helpful too. When cleaning an expando pitch it might be neccesary to drive pins in to clean nuts, cams and even other pins. Just have fun and change your shorts after the lead!!!

Offline passthepitonspete

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Expando Insights Needed
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2006, 02:49:18 pm »
Sometimes I clip the eye of shallow-driven pins in order to get a camming effect on the placement, rather than tying the thing off.  To get the idea of what I mean, try hand-placing a piton in the vertical crack between a closed door and the doorjamb.  

It's always scary nailing in a pin above the one you're on, knowing the one you're on just might pull.  

The two things to remember are to clip your daisy into the top piece with no slack, and to nail that bastard just as fast as you can drive it in.  

Wham! Wham! Wham! Pop!  [Shit! Oh, it held. Whew!]
Dr. Piton says, "There is always a Better Way!"