Author Topic: Big Wall glove rehab  (Read 1040 times)

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Offline Raaf

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Big Wall glove rehab
« on: November 17, 2014, 11:45:51 pm »
It's probably similar for a lot of people: you return from a Wall climb and the gear gets chucked in the corner . . . . neglected for the next however many months. No time for much maintenance.

But I got to wondering the other night about those nasty, crusty Wall gloves that weren't looking too good after our venture up Mideast Crisis last month. They're the classic Metolius fingerless leather ones. Hard to break in. Some would say the leather is a little too thick. After five walls and throwing them back in the drawer each time, they were getting a bit funky.

Curiosity led me to Google "wash leather work glove" and I followed the advice. Unbelievable! For starters, that lukewarm sink water turned darker than coffee for the first few rinses. So nasty. Was that all sweat, snot and dirt in there? They hang dried overnight. After applying some decent quality leather treatment today, these bad boys are totally back in action! They smell like nice leather again. At least one or two more trips left in them. It's like they're finally broken in, too.

Ok--mundane wall rant over.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2014, 05:33:17 am »
Mucci's got me in the habit of storing the gloves in a zip-lock bag after the wall. Toss a damp paper towel in there too and viola, no crusty gloves to deal with at all.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Raaf

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2014, 01:01:20 pm »
I can see how the damp towel strategy would keep them soft. But don't you get mold?

It was the "clean" factor that really surprised me. A good washing and leather moisture treatment made such a huge difference.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2014, 01:46:58 pm »
Haven't seen mold yet. I've moved away from straight leather to the synthetic leather and cloth design of the new BDel gloves. They don't last quite as long but don't suffer from the hardening of leather. My only issue is they come in black or blue and black. Does anyone at BDel actually climb in the sun?
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2014, 02:33:21 pm »
I use the Metolius Iron Hand gloves. They last me three or four walls and then I throw them away and get another pair.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2014, 11:03:17 pm »
Dried fear sweat is nasty stuff.

I am reminded that I never emptied my trash bag from that trip, I wonder what is growing in there...

Offline Raaf

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2014, 11:58:38 pm »
Oh dude. Follow up report required.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2014, 11:29:32 am »
Take your pee bottle and Waste Case and pour a few drops of that Dr. Bonner's soap into it along with a bit of water. Slosh it around, dump it out and then do it again but leave the water in there till next spring.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2014, 01:13:03 pm »
pics of big wall fungal farm welcome.

a harrowing warning to future wallers.

:)

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2014, 05:46:38 pm »
Re-use a pee bottle?  No thanks.

Shivers.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2014, 05:47:49 pm »
Reusing a pee bottle Mark? Man, that oregon reduce/reuse/close the loop mentality is got you strong! ;P

I ended up throwing away my waste case after Tribal Rite once the rain got in and the whole thing was literally infused with crap. I just couldn't imagine having it in my truck for the ride home.

Of course I later realized, F it, and slipped it to a sling that hung out the back of my truck topper for the ride home after I finished with my route on Lost Brother. I was kinda hoping someone would steal it while I was in Safeway in Turlock on the way home just to have them open it and receive their karma.

I've managed to leave a trashbag with rotting fruit in my haulbag for months in my storage unit. That was not a pleasant thing to come upon.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline kristoffer

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #11 on: November 23, 2014, 12:12:25 am »
You must never fail to maintain your equipment!  When it comes to these gear intensive activities I live by that mantra.  Treat your parachute, ropes, pins and hooks with the same loving care and attention that a soldier would show his firearm.  By doing so you are assured that your tools will not fail you in critical times.

I donít have much to say about cleaning and treating leather, but recently I went on a pin and hook maintenance binge.

It seems ever since I set foot into the cascades my gear really took a turn down the bumpy road of rusty and ratty.  Its all good thou, with a little added effort things can still be kept looking new. 

I buffed all heavily corroded beaks, peckers and hooks on a fiber wheel till they were gleaming, all the tight angles that the wheel couldnít reach I polished with either steel wool or SOS pads.  I find this a perfect time to inspect for cracks or other scary stuff (my pins are alpine drilled out so I really must keep a diligent eye out for damage) and also sharpened and de-burred those who needed it.

I bathed all the pins and hooks in super blue gun bluing till they achieved a coating I was satisfied with, and then carefully washed them many times to remove any remains of that caustic solution. 

As a final corrosion control I applied car wax to all the metal and then blew off the excess with an air compressor.  Then sewed all of them up with some 9/16 super tie off webbing.
   
-Bring on the shit weather.
"I am plagued by a mindless nonchalance and petrified zen"

Offline mhudon

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #12 on: November 23, 2014, 12:45:54 pm »
I use a nalgene bottle I bought at REI five years ago. It rinses out just fine.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2014, 12:49:14 pm by mhudon »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #13 on: November 23, 2014, 12:54:05 pm »
I cache my pins in canvas bags so they have a nice rusty-orange mossy growth on them when I get back to them. I find the granite I'm climbing on does a good job of buffing off the rust within a pitch or two. Sharp edges get a bit of duct tape if I'm feeling randy. Saves me time to devote to other climbing-related activities like drinking, smoking, and listening to Bosque tell stories that would make a honey badgers balls shrink.

Did I say cache? Nope, def don't cache, I... um... store my gear at home and def not in damp caves nearby my fixed lines.

Did I say fixed? Nope, def don't leave fixed lines, I pull all my lines and coil them and store them at home in humidity and light controlled rooms then hike back up the the route with them and relead whatever I did previously.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #14 on: November 23, 2014, 01:46:15 pm »
Quote
carefully washed them many times to remove any remains of that caustic solution

Kristoffer, aren't you a bit worried about using something caustic that will be tied with nylon later?

A year or so ago I read the rags stories about acid corrosion effects on webbing. I don't remember the deets, but it definitely made me think about where I store my headlamps, drill, camp lanterns and how often I will replace my webbing.

#irbingparanoid

Offline kristoffer

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #15 on: November 23, 2014, 02:02:04 pm »
Munge,

No I am not worried about using the stuff.  I tried to convey the importance of washing the finished product really well in my post.
I suppose if one was really scared they could do an extra step involving some sort of acid neutralizer? I just do soap and water several times.
that being said, I am probably going to die from gear failure.     
"I am plagued by a mindless nonchalance and petrified zen"

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #16 on: November 23, 2014, 02:45:16 pm »
let's hope not.  :)

My approach is let steel rust. Steel wool if I had to. wire wheel to debur or rub it on granite. Then again my steel isn't loved like it should be. I need a 40 hawks pitch. Just sayin.


Offline cobbledik

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #17 on: November 23, 2014, 03:30:00 pm »
Go climb my route on lost brother. Many hawks will be used...
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #18 on: November 23, 2014, 03:39:39 pm »
may need to borrow a few.

I'm only up to 10 or so.

Have been thinking about keeping myself busy in Yosemite over the winter since A wall will be gated.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #19 on: November 23, 2014, 05:13:04 pm »
Oh dude. Follow up report required.

Turned out OK.  I thought there was still a half eaten freeze dried egg thingy in there, but apparently not.  Most fo the stuff was sealed inside of old water bottles, and the only damage was a bunch of bottle stuck to the bag with dried gatorade drips (I hope it was gatorade anyway  :-o)

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #20 on: November 23, 2014, 06:30:21 pm »
My new job has me working Mon-Thurs and Sat, so walling is out for a little bit before I can get a handle on things and move the schedule around. My gear is your gear Mungiepoo.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« Reply #21 on: November 23, 2014, 08:58:43 pm »
thx hombre! I can get a couple pitches fixed on a new project perhaps.

Will send a pic.