Author Topic: Solo single pitch aid adventures  (Read 2123 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Baltoro

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 154
    • View Profile
Solo single pitch aid adventures
« on: September 26, 2006, 12:59:39 pm »
Arachnid Arch- Lower Town Wall- Index, WA

The goal of this adventure was to get some emore experience leading and cleaning traverses of which this route is great for.

This goes free at hard 11 but goes clean at C1/2. My anchor consisted of a few stoppers and a tied off block. This all came together with a screamer for some cush. A little free climbing to get the blood flowing and then a welcomed gold camalot. A few more placements got me to the start of the roof/arch. This basically traverses straight sideways for 20+ feet on small cams. I equalized a big #4 and a #3, threw a long-slung prusik on those guys to take the weight of the rope off the gri-gri, and began the traverse.

I think I placed in order: a .3, a .1, a 0 and another .1 . The route then goes straight up. One solid nut led me to a questionable stretch. I figured I could get a nut or small cam in somewhere but something told me to go for the cam hooks. I found a bomber home for one and was so pleased with that one that I placed another. A shaky free move that would no doubt result in getting something hung up and falling onto the cam hook was enough to inspire me to break out a Cliffhanger. Bomber as well. Built my anchor and came back down.

The cleaning was uneventful, save for the 0 pulling while cleaning/re-leading the beginnig traverse. On the way down though I saw this amazing yellow and black catapillar inching along. He came to a little roof on this totally vertical face and just inched along right up and over it. If that's not a metaphor for aid climbing than I don't know what is.

All in all, a great half day. Lessons learned for the day:

Always rerack your unused daisy/etriers on the side your heading to (left side when traversing left,vice-versa), do similiar on the cleaning sections, hooks are not that scary as the nut or cams would have been a little manky.

Highlight of the day: Tie for three consecutive hook moves and the catapillar. Good times.
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Solo single pitch aid adventures
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2006, 01:03:12 pm »
Is 3 hook moves in a row still C2?  

clean pendo fall situation?

Offline Baltoro

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 154
    • View Profile
Solo single pitch aid adventures
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2006, 01:38:25 pm »
You could have gone with nuts or cams that I think would have kept things at C2. In fact you probably could've fallen on to the first hook and had it hold. I guess the "crux" of that pitch is that section as the small cams on the traverse were just that, small cams but nothing crazy placement-wise. It would've been a pretty clean fall as you're in this shallow corner that you'd clear and then you swing out into space below the roof. I guess I didn't even consider the rating effect that three hooks in a row would have. They were pretty bomber though so I still stand by C2 I suppose. It's all A1 (C1) until you fall! Nice trip report on the King's canyon adventure. Nothing like repeated bailing to inspire the next trip!
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Solo single pitch aid adventures
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2006, 01:41:09 pm »
Seriously, planning again. 3d maybe.

Offline Baltoro

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 154
    • View Profile
Solo single pitch aid adventures
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2006, 02:38:10 pm »
Yeah, it's on my list of maybes for first VI. I'm planning on getting worked on the Leaning Tower or WC in the spring and maybe shoot for the 3D in late summer. I think I might do the Muir start to avoid some of the mandatory free on the lower Salathe as I don't free climb that strong beyond single pitch stuff and I might be soloing and I certainly don't free that hard while feeding slack on a gri-gri.
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline Craig Peer

  • A3 Fool
  • ****
  • Posts: 103
    • View Profile
    • http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=5092
Solo single pitch aid adventures
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2006, 03:14:05 pm »
Quote
I think I might do the Muir start to avoid some of the mandatory free on the lower Salathe


Why not just do the Muir Wall - a great route!!