Author Topic: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?  (Read 466 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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"Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« on: June 02, 2015, 03:03:18 pm »
I used to think that speed ascents always were done in the late season in the hopes that the wall is 'more fixed' to go fast through it.

But perhaps a buddy's ascent before hand gives dialed in beta of the conditions of fixed gear so you only have to take the bare necessities?


Offline lambone

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Re: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2015, 03:34:33 pm »
I dunno Munge, I don't really think so.

Those guys take a pretty standard rack up the wall regardless of what they think the fixed gear may or may not be like. I doubt they count on fixed heads and stuff for breaking the records. And I doubt they really place many heads at all regardless. It's all about 'dem beaks.

Pretty cool vid just got put up by Alpinist on Facebook of Dave, Skiy and Cheyne's ZM record.  http://bit.ly/1ETvmZI

This team climbed right past me on Shortest Straw and everything in this video shows how they work as a team. They just cruise through stuff...all doing their jobs. The leader marches up at a smooth consistent pace regardless of the grade. I watched Dave climb what we both thought was the crux pitch of SS from the belay above chilling in my ledge. He just cruised through one move at time, never in a rush, but also never stopping to screw around.

I think it has much less to do with what fixed gear there is and how proffecient the climber is with their own gear.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2015, 10:06:12 pm »
Copy that Lambone!

Yeah, that vid got me thinking about it. It also made me seriously think about how slow I am. LOL

Those guys are super solid... second nature... no 'thinking' almost muscle memory for the piece to place and how to set it efficiently, and not go for the big ride.

Offline lambone

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Re: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2015, 11:49:48 am »
What I noticed about how Alfrey climbed the pitch below me on the Straw was not how quicly he moved physically. But how quicly he evaluated the next placement, pulled the correct piece from the rack and got it right every time. No fiddling with the rack, no ho-humming about what to do next. Just clip-place-test-go on to the next move. Proffecient leading at a consistent pace. Never wrecklessly fast or careless. Just smooth and solid (although he did put a cam behind a huge loose block that I was scared to even breath on!) His adjustable fifi system is also very efficient.

Cheyne and Skiy on the other hand were moving up the ropes like bats out of hell!!! They'd only have about 15 minutes at the belay to chill before Dave was finished with the next pitch then on the move again.

I was very thankful to see them because after 6 days solo on the wall I was lonely and out of smokes! Skiy and Cheyne crammed on my single ledge and Skiy let me roll as many of his smokes as I could before it was time for them to push on! Which wasn't very many! We jammed the tune box and slammed some whiskey. Those guys thought it was all pretty funny, just super psyched and having a good time.

I think the real hard thing about these pushes is maintaining your energy for a consistent pace on the wall for so many hours...especially when the night block hits. Seems like Chenye always bats clean up in the dark for those guys and he just motors along like an animal, even after jugging his ass off all day long.

The whole show is pretty inspiring. Watching them top out above me in about 3 hours over terrain that I was planning two days for...I was like, "fuck that I'm gunna top this bitch out tommorow! If they can do it in 3 hours I can do it in 12!" Two pitches later I hit Peanut Ledge and could barely sort my Bivi out let alone climb another pitch! Lol

« Last Edit: June 03, 2015, 11:58:33 am by lambone »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2015, 02:22:08 pm »
I hear ya. I got one pitch fixed last weekend over two days. Forecast is looking pretty crummy this weekend. :(

Offline lambone

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Re: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2015, 02:37:42 pm »
I'll be fixing in the rain!