Author Topic: south seas beta  (Read 520 times)

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Offline swarren198@gmail.com

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south seas beta
« on: June 18, 2015, 06:52:25 am »
hello all wall monkeys,

hope everyone is having a good season so far!

im thinking doing this south seas in the fall, ive heard lots of good things about it!
i wandered if anyone on here had recommendations for rack i should take,or any beta you got for the route.
cheers

Offline cobbledik

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2015, 09:22:15 am »
The most currebg rack requires 1 Andy Kirkpatrick.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline swarren198@gmail.com

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2015, 02:14:15 pm »
haha
have you been to the bridge today to see his progress?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2015, 05:30:13 pm »
Yesterday's el cap report: (yes, I know it isn't today's, but this thread need pics)

"4)  Sea of Dreams:  Andy was up and going by 9am and I got this shot of him just above the belay."

Tom's pic embedded

Offline swarren198@gmail.com

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2015, 06:07:00 am »
Thanks for post guys....
But does anyone know bout hauling on the higher part of po wall will I need to far end haul or do them pigs fly in air the whole time!
Hope you guys in Cali are ok! And the fire is being subdued.

Offline lambone

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2015, 04:22:09 pm »
The hauling up high is ok. I remember it being a bitch on the Island in the Sky, and maybe the last pitch.

Far End hauler should always be in your bag of tricks.


It's a great route. Not really A4 imo.

Offline swarren198@gmail.com

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #6 on: June 21, 2015, 06:27:59 am »
nice cheers lambone

i was hoping to rig it up once off the south seas because them pitches look steep :).

i was thinking of joining atlantis to get me on top of the island in the sky much prefer A2 to 5.9ow, any thoughts?

plus 1 or 2 #5 camelots

you been walling this year yet lambone?

cheers

Offline lambone

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2015, 02:58:04 pm »
Ya I can't say on the Atlantis pitch. You could probly email Bobo on Facebook about it.

I did South Seas about 10 years ago so it's all pretty vague. I do recall a heinous haul up to the Island though. My partner led the runout OW pitch above the ledge and thought it was no big deal. We took a full rest day there.

My partner whipped out of the A4 expanding traverse pitch on SS. It's a clean fall and he went back up and sent it mostly clean. I had to nail some pins just to clean some cams and brass nuts.

I fell a couple times out of expanding stuff up higher on the PO. The "Illusion Chain" or whatever flake is thin and scary. You mostly hook it to get past.

I had a couple failed El Cap attempts this spring. Got on Aurora and a series of setbacks just pushed my timeline out of the comfort zone and I decided I didn't want to get home days late and miss time with my kids. Tried Never Never Land with one planned bivi and we got stormed on hard just below Timbucktu Tower, so we bailed soaking wet. Luckily it was pretty warm out and the raps were straightforward.

Offline swarren198@gmail.com

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2015, 04:35:00 am »
ah cool!
i guess i must of bumped into you at some point in the valley.
i spoke to joe after you guys had got down sounded like you all got a hosing?
sometimes plan don't come together unfortunately always the fall :)
im not a ow climber at all especially while soloing so to know bout the atlantis pitch would be cool, who is bobo i  dont know this guy?
cheers for input dude.
as a side question where do you saw off your angles 50% between tip n eye?

Offline kristoffer

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #9 on: June 22, 2015, 09:56:42 am »
Bobo is Dave Turner, might not be the best time for correspondence with him since he is spending the summer in the alps representing the US in X-Alps, Get some Turner!


Matt hit it on the head, that OW after the tower is a hike, don't even worry about it.

If I was you, I would not even bother sawing off those angles. filed angles (length wise) are rad and still useful on a modern rack.
"I am plagued by a mindless nonchalance and petrified zen"

Offline cobbledik

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #10 on: June 22, 2015, 01:07:38 pm »
Hudon (and I now) recommends connecting your bag to the haul line via a minitrax (or equivalent) this makes it easy to shorten the haul line to the bag before hauling and if you happen to need a far end haul, you can set it up on the spot.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline lambone

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #11 on: June 22, 2015, 01:59:22 pm »
Dave put up Atlantis. He's on FB everyday, I bet he'd answer you. I'd take his A2 rating with a grain of salt though.


Offline *Mucci*

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Re: south seas beta
« Reply #12 on: June 22, 2015, 03:42:59 pm »
I climbed a A1 pitch that minerals put up.

Giant death block (gone now), tons of peckers, finishes with a string of #2 heads to the belay.

I logged some air time too.

A1+ is now the consensus  :-D



Turner is a granite craftsman, not giving up his secrets.



If I had time for EC, a 2nd ascent of a gerby route would be my first pick.  At least you know it will be real climbing, real heading, real stretcher, and real scary.