Author Topic: Silent Partner field usage feedback here  (Read 4248 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« on: January 29, 2006, 08:15:56 pm »
After using this to aid solo a lower angle A1 bolt and hooking route. I'm not at all convinced this thing (the Silent Partner) is worth it. Fortunately I'm just borrowing this one.

the thing I noticed most was that it wouldn't actually feed. I had to feed it thru like a standard clove hitch method. It went smoothly comparatively, but i still had to feed it. I was prepared for the rope running backwards to the belay but not for it to cinch up as I would stand up in my aiders.

Also, when simulating a fall on the lower angle terrain, a short fall. I couldn't generate enough speed to engage the clutch, so I started to fall and would slowly slide/fall and not engage. Got wigged, and decided not to try a full on fall until such time as I could get a clean fall on steep terrain.

It's bulky and like E.K. mentioned on super taco, I think it was him, it does seem like it could come up and bash your teeth in.

I'm thinking about trying the modified Grigri next.

Offline mungeclimber

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Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2006, 11:20:51 am »
additional info-

the rope was a basically non fuzzy 10.5 mammut (I think it was a dry treated rope too).

Offline the_dude

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Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2006, 04:41:08 pm »
Good feedback. Sounds like its the same amount of work as a grigri on aid. Think I'll stick with my modified grigri for now. That practice fall sounded scary!

Offline salad

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Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2006, 04:40:46 pm »
while i havent done much with my SP, i rope soloed jam crack P1 with no issues.  Also P1 and P3 of the South Face.  P1 is pretty slabby and mine fed just fine.

I used a newer 10.2.  Course that was a while ago (2k beers) and pre-fatherhood, so my memory might be skewed...

it is a bit big.  never took a 'practice' fall.

Offline the_dude

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Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2006, 01:36:45 pm »
Did you find the SP to work well for free climbing?

Offline syrinx

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Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2006, 11:06:44 am »
I like the silent partner because it can be used for so many things. For pure solo aid it may not have much advantage over other systems. Mine seems to feed smoothly with ropes 10.5 and under. Newer ropes also feed better than older ones.  The rope will feed differently depending on how much rope is pulling on either side ofhte clove hitch.

Syrinx
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Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2008, 09:03:32 pm »
so now that I've used this some more, with a brand new 10.2, it doesn't auto feed, but it feeds very easy. just a tap or two on the rope and it goes thru. 


got a modified gri gri now, thx to tmoses swage'n.  gotta try that out now.



Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2008, 12:21:51 am »
Make sure the clove isn't tied on wrong.  The correct way has the strands hangin off the top of the drum, not the bottom.  Properly threaded feed pretty easily, bottom feeds horribly.

My personal view is that I will no longer use them.  Mine freeked me out on a cold day.  In the cold (~40F) mine would not lock up reliably.  I sent it to the factory and they dismantled and only found a bit of sand in a seal (nothing to explain the behavior).  However now it works fine when cold (I verified the behavior was there using my freezer before, and verified after it was gone).  But with no root cause, I simply don't trust them.  I have gone with the grigri for solo, as I can inspect all the pieces.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2008, 07:46:10 pm »
Sounds like there could be something wrong with your setup. Make sure the ropes feeds from the top of the roller. It should feed real smooth.

I've been using the sp for a couple years now and it feeds very well. I use either a 10.2 or a 10.5 rope. It needs to be non fuzzy.

I've tried lots of different devices and keep coming back the sp, since it works so well.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2008, 12:09:19 am »
i'll double check, but but I'm pretty sure ends were close to the locker side, out each side.

http://www.wrenindustries.com/silentmanual.pdf


Offline Rags

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2008, 12:20:38 am »
I don't know about the Silent partner. After looking at that thing last weekend, I can't imagine wanting to carry it. I just looks huge.

I was out doing some solo practice today, and I gotta say, the clove hitch isn't getting it. I need something easier.

I'm gonna take a hard look at a Solo-Aid. Time to borrow one and give it a run.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline hammock-soloer

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2008, 11:31:50 am »
I think the grigri and a wallrack is best. I've been into rock climbing for about 8 years. I read a few books and couldn't find any climbing buddies. So I went out to play/experiment with my newly found treasures under some 18 steps and 15 foot side walk.
I got aid soloing wired for that stair case anyway. I just figured out a way, any way that I could get off the ground and stay off the ground. I used the grigri with no chest harness and no modification. I only had to hang from a sling and mannuly feed the rope.  Worked fine. then I went to the valley to solo the nose (never happned). At least I went and tryed. My friend was soloing the "salathe'" with his grigri he showed me the modified version and explained how it works, kind of with verry limmited english.
Next I just tryed it. It is my favorite way. I just have to be carefull not to get to much slack after climbing out half a rope length. Clove on a locker on a cam works well. I still need a chest harness to keep my gri gri upright so that way it will feed smoothly. I am still kind of thinking about a traditional belay anchor while soloing. Inverted cam(s), and this cool not ref.-load releasing hitch(with a slight difference) page507 mountaineering the freedom of the hills edition 7. 

Offline offset

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2008, 11:39:56 am »
not sure if i speak for others on this, but belaying on a wall is not the most attentive activity.  that is, we expect and depend on the gri-gri to catch the leader in random orientations and at in-opportune times (making a sandwich or taking a leak...)....

for these reasons, it seems that the gri-gri is a more than suitable soloing device.  it's made to do what soloing requires.   the times i have used one (unmodified) it has fed good enough and when it is not feeding, it is a reminder that it is working (ie, catching rapid movement)

i got rid of my soloist mainly for the upside-down fall danger.  if there is anytime you are going to fall upsidedown, seems that it would be aiding....high centery of gravity w/ that stupid wall rack.


Offline hammock-soloer

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2008, 11:49:29 am »
I thought that people aid climb so that way they don't fall. I don't know much about the soloist thing though.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2008, 01:06:58 pm by hammok-soloer »

Offline E_Rolls

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #14 on: June 03, 2008, 03:05:21 pm »
No hijack intended!

Just wondering...Those of you soloing with grigri.  Do you prefer using a chest harness or just let it hang?
And if using a chest harness do you orient the handle towards rock or chest?

-E

Offline Rags

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2008, 02:04:09 am »
Be sure you don't confuse the "soloist" and the solo-aid". They are two different devices.

A solo-aid will catch an upside down fall.

http://www.wrenindustries.com/index.html
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

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Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« Reply #16 on: June 05, 2008, 08:44:40 pm »
Like Offset said, a gri-gri  is suitably safe - as long as it's backed up with knots.  I generally have a backup knot in when belaying unless my partner's in really easy terrain, so I can go make lunch or whatever with no worries about it not catching.  I think the issue is more a matter of easy feeding, and IMHO the Silent Partner does  feed  more easily IF YOU TIE THE CLOVE THE RIGHT WAY.  I had it the wrong way up the first time I used it, and I've heard lots of other folks make the same mistake.

In my experience it will feed very easily, more so with new/slippery ropes.   I took a 55+ footer onto mine a few years ago (one of my first climbs on the SP), and 10 of that was probably due to extra slack building up between me and the anchor.  I've never had slack get away on me that way with the gri-gri.

One negative point about the silent partner is it SUCKS in squeeze chimneys!  Not only does the body of the device jam, but the clove hitch seems to rub on the rock and cinch down.  Not sure any other soloing device sucks less in that situation tho...