Author Topic: Dolt or Heart?  (Read 289 times)

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Offline csproul

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Dolt or Heart?
« on: June 25, 2015, 10:07:56 am »
Which is easier?

Since it is getting warm and the Cap is getting more empty, I was thinking about previewing the start of the Nose or Salathe with an day or overnight trip to one of these locals. Keep in mind I am a relatively new and SLOW aid climber. I'd say I'd usually feel ok freeing in the low 10's, but with the extra gear/logistics of aid gear it's more like 5.8!

So, which is a better choice as far as aid/free difficulty? What about sun exposure? If I were to haul a light kit to spend the night, which hauls better? Am I likely to be hated this time of year for plugging up a popular (mostly) free route to do one of these?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Dolt or Heart?
« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2015, 11:59:11 am »
Sal first pitches is a popular free climb, but might be free if it's totally cooking


Nose will have climbers too, but is known as an aid climb.


go check and see who is doing what, then go for it.


but for me, I don't like people, so I'd personally find some other pitches to work on. But lots of folks do training runs, and let others pass as needed.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Dolt or Heart?
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2015, 01:36:45 pm »
New Dawn is a great line to practice aid on. Almost always empty, same basic approach distance as salathe. You can bivy (relatively) comfortably at the midway ledge in the middle of pitch 2. Goes clean.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline csproul

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Re: Dolt or Heart?
« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2015, 01:54:57 pm »
New Dawn is a great line to practice aid on. Almost always empty, same basic approach distance as salathe. You can bivy (relatively) comfortably at the midway ledge in the middle of pitch 2. Goes clean.

That is an awesome suggestion, thanks. There is a ledge on p2, I don't see one on the topo? Can you rap easily from Lay Lady Ledge?

At some point, I would still like to do Dolt and/or Freeblast since the Nose and Salathe are on my list of things to do as soon as I feel ready, and it'd be helpful to preview their respective starts.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2015, 02:12:15 pm by csproul »

Offline lambone

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Re: Dolt or Heart?
« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2015, 04:52:24 pm »
Maybe consider going up the first 8 Pitches of Never Never Land to Timbuktu Tower. Pretty moderate aid, not much mandetory free, likely no crowds, and a very straightforward rappels straight down from a sweet bivi ledge.

If you are soling you might wanna fix a couple pitches to make it more doable in a day.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Dolt or Heart?
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2015, 09:54:14 pm »
That is an awesome suggestion, thanks. There is a ledge on p2, I don't see one on the topo? Can you rap easily from Lay Lady Ledge?

At some point, I would still like to do Dolt and/or Freeblast since the Nose and Salathe are on my list of things to do as soon as I feel ready, and it'd be helpful to preview their respective starts.

Ledge on pitch 2 shows up in both topos as a optional belay with a blank circle. (You can see the ledge below me right past the hanging blue cam.)


I know people have retreated to the ground from lay lady via anchors but i don't know how easy or hard it is. There's a pretty extreme traverse in pitch 4 so you'd need to follow other anchors down. You'd need to be ready to leave biners/webbing  unless a team has recently retreated before you get there. (I know I collected quite a few biners and trash webbing on my way up a couple of years ago) 

If you're there for practice and systems, I wouldn't expect to get to Lay Lady Ledge in a day. For a practice run, I'd think in 2 days is a bit much. There's nothing to bivy on without a lede between the middle of pitch 2 and Lay Lady
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.