Author Topic: Hudon's Butterfly Belays  (Read 297 times)

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Offline Prod

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Hudon's Butterfly Belays
« on: September 22, 2015, 09:41:47 am »
Anyone here use these? Mark, you around?

How do you transition when leading in Blocks, or if you are leading every pitch.

During my most recent bailed climb, I opted for a cordalette due to the fact that I was going to be leading every pitch. It was pretty hassle free.

Cheers,

Prod.

Offline Prod

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Re: Hudon's Butterfly Belays
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2015, 04:54:30 pm »
The only systems I could figure for 1 person to lead every pitch were.

1. Swap ends of the rope. untie and retie. I don't like that.
2. Use the followers end of the rope to retie the same knots/ belay under the belay of the continual leader. Seems like a cluster and time consuming compared to a cordalette.

Prod.

Offline Skully

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Re: Hudon's Butterfly Belays
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2015, 09:03:57 am »
I'm thinking the same thing Guy, having not used that method myself, but with one end tied into the anchor, seems you'd have to untie & tie into the other end. Or another line entirely.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2015, 09:05:53 am by Skully »

Offline Prod

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Re: Hudon's Butterfly Belays
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2015, 10:03:09 am »
Skully,

I've been using it on trad climbs instead of cloves to practice. Sets up pretty fast. really clean. Not as fast as cloves though.

Prod.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Hudon's Butterfly Belays
« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2015, 10:27:51 pm »
I've never used it to climb in blocks, I don't climb that way.

How do people do that, btw?

When Max and I tried to speed climb the Zod last year, we climbed in blocks and used my Butterfly anchor technique. The leader would pull up all the remaining rope, tie up the anchor and then continue on. When the second got to the anchor he would merely clip in to the bolts with daisies and retie the anchor.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2015, 10:29:58 pm by mhudon »

Offline mhudon

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Re: Hudon's Butterfly Belays
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2015, 09:39:55 am »
Actually, now that I think of it, what's the big deal?

The leader ties up the anchor with my technique and when the second shows up you simply move the knot loops in the biner (that's why I use big, flat bottomed biners) and retie the anchor. I don't see a problem. At an anchor, I never hang anything on the ropes and I make sure not to pin my ropes into a biner.

Skot showed me a cool trick to move a knot loop behind one already on a biner without too much fuss. I'll take a few photos it and post it.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Hudon's Butterfly Belays
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2015, 09:09:31 pm »


Skot showed me a cool trick to move a knot loop behind one already on a biner without too much fuss. I'll take a few photos it and post it.


Please do!  Knotting and reknotting if I'm not managing the lines right, is a pain to redo. If there's and easy secure way to flip the bit from back to front, could be a really good tip.

thx Mark!