Author Topic: Fa grading question.  (Read 265 times)

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Offline cobbledik

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Fa grading question.
« on: September 27, 2015, 10:50:08 am »
Quick question guys,

If you fa a pitch that has some mandatory thin A1 nailing but is primarily thin flake C2 nuts and cams, what is the grade for it? It's not A2 and it's not C2 and conversely, it's not A1 and it's not C1. Normally I would think that most people would say that it's A1 because you can get iron in where the sketchy cams and nuts went but I'm not sure if it would be.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Prod

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2015, 11:01:52 am »
Interesting question.

I'd think A2, as it has nailing. Then the topo would tell the rest of the story.

Prod.

Offline Skully

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2015, 04:14:11 pm »
A1+, perhaps? That might just confuse people....I'd probably grade the sections differently & don't worry about the whole pitch, if I understand you correctly.  :-)

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2015, 10:32:05 pm »
A is for the type of gear (C vs. A)

# is for the hardest move on the pitch (or better yet for the route).


any clarifications go into the pitch by pitch topo or written descriptions.



Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #4 on: September 29, 2015, 09:26:18 pm »
I rate the aid part and clean part separately on each pitch if applicable.

Label what is what, no overall pitch "rating", it is what it is.

If the climbing is all the same in both technical and etc... then it just gets a rating by the hardest move/crux/trick part.



Bottom line, after a FA, if you did anything all clean or big sections, you need to spell that out very clearly in the topo.

Keep it from getting beat out after the masses converge.


Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #5 on: September 29, 2015, 10:27:05 pm »
that's what I said! lol  8-)


nice, got the Mucci back on the forum too.



Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2015, 10:30:53 pm »
 :-D

I want to take such a long break, I can re-learn the fundamentals..


Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2015, 12:34:26 pm »
Big Wall Zen Mind = Beginner's Mind  (I'm paraphrasing Shunryu Suzuki. Zen Mind Beginner Mind is actually a really good book)


Offline lambone

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #8 on: October 04, 2015, 09:50:22 pm »
Thin nailing would generally be A2 right? Assuming it's pretty bomber...

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #9 on: October 04, 2015, 10:20:15 pm »
Pink Pussycat used to be A1. First two pieces used to be KBs.

has that gone on Clean gear?

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Fa grading question.
« Reply #10 on: October 06, 2015, 05:09:56 pm »
The nailing is bomber #3 peckers. A1 as long as you have real swage attached to them or use tomahawks.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.