Author Topic: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?  (Read 3986 times)

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Offline xtrmecat

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When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« on: October 13, 2006, 05:21:39 pm »
When I solo, and this is most of the time, I usualy make an anchor and tie in. Next I fix my dynamic line to said anchor usualy with 2 lockers to the power point with a figure eight. On the rare occasion,such as Devils Tower, that I arrive at a pitch end there are usually a pair of anchors. I normaly tie a boline on a bite and double fisherman the tail and fix with 2 lockers. Question is there a better knot to use here? My climbing mentor and I both cannot think of anything better but I'd sure like to know what the rest of the world uses.
  Thanks,
    Bob

Offline tomtom

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When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2006, 06:07:52 pm »
For ropes that will be weighted (a lead line that someone will be jugging and a haul line I rap) I tie a clove hitch to the powerpoint and a figure 8 downstream clipped to something else.  The weighted clove hitch is easier to untie afterward.

Offline the_dude

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When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2006, 11:43:41 pm »
Same as TomTom. Cloves are easiest to untie.

Offline lunchbox

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2006, 01:42:36 pm »
i've got to put my vote in for the butterfly knott.  since it works as and "in-line knott" , meaning the bight can fail but the rope cannot, it is better than the clove for fixing. 

if a clove fails do you get catastrophic failure?  i think so?!?!

it also unties easier than the clove.

when you clip it to the power point and then tie and eight on a bight to back it up (clip the bight to the best anchor piece) you get a pretty good backup to what ever is your primary method of equalization at the anchor. 

Offline jeni2

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2006, 03:28:56 pm »
Clove hitches for me too.  Maybe one figure eight on a bight somewhere in the anchor, otherwise all cloves.  At least threeanchor points unless I'm speed climbing without a haulbag.  Bomber anchors when hauling are a must.  Anyone have any stories of a haulbag cutting loose accidentlally?

Offline Unreleasedenergy

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2006, 06:54:11 pm »
Clove hitch backed up with an 8 on a bight.
I use two carabiners for the clove so I can break it open quick.

Offline lunchbox

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2006, 08:48:09 am »
I suprised to see that no one else is using the butterfly knott for fixing the lead line. 

more reasons it rocks>>>>>

More room on the biner for other biners and knots...

you can move it around on the biner once the line is unweighted without unclipping it...

it's so much easier to untie....i promise

Offline mts

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2006, 12:41:07 pm »
there was a pretty sweet knot posted on supertopo that looks like it might be good for fixing hte lead line

the equilizing figure 8, havn't tried it yet but it looks pretty sweet

Offline lunchbox

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2006, 10:03:03 pm »
mts...

if your talking about the figure 8 with rabbit ears, i agree... it's great for fixing although i've never used it on a wall.  i think i've seen photos of amman and ivo or brian short fixing this way...

isn't there a way to tie it with more that two legs? 

you can tie a similiar knot with a bowline on a bight...

Offline Teth

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2006, 07:11:34 am »
Here is a link to instructions for how to tie the figure 8 with rabbit ears.

http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8loopdouble/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

However, if you stop it at step 5 and clip biners to all the loops you will have a three loop, self equalizing knot which would seem to be superior for fixing a rope.

Teth
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Offline mts

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2006, 12:43:33 pm »
no no thte rabbit ear one.

check out this link

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=239823&tn=0&mr=0

if it comes out pagineated i think it is on p2

see the posts by ultrabiker.

Offline Teth

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2006, 10:36:43 am »
Yes yes, not the rabbit ears knot, but if you stop the directions for the rabbit ears knot above at step #5, you get the same knot that ultrabiker posted. Your searching ability on Super Topo is either superior to mine, or you are more persistent. I would have posted that link, if I had been able to find it.

Teth
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Offline mts

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Re: When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« Reply #12 on: October 27, 2006, 11:34:45 am »
actually i had bookmarked that thread when it first came out since i had some good info. so i didn't have to do much searching at all