Author Topic: Harnesses  (Read 11802 times)

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Offline Baltoro

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #30 on: February 05, 2008, 12:42:25 pm »
Oh Feral Rat
As any good big wall bitcher should know, there is always a piece of gear to bitch about. That's why we aid climb! So there is lots of stuff around to blame our failures on and to help justify buying new gear later. Next time I'll have a set of my new Sierra Diamond Hybrid Megalots and I'll succeed!

Just think if you were a boulderer or worse yet a free soloist! Only having shoes and a chalk bag to blame things on?! What's the point!
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #31 on: February 06, 2008, 12:03:49 am »



Come to MAMA!!!

Offline Rags

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #32 on: February 06, 2008, 12:41:30 am »
Well, It's pretty.
the Big Gun?s seven color-coded gear loops. Two belay loops

With all the color coding you'll go blind. Surprised they didn't color code right/left leg loops for the dyslexic.

I'll hang onto my Ye' Ole Yates Big Wall, but let us know how it works out.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline johnmac

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #33 on: February 06, 2008, 07:58:56 am »
I've read somewhere in the pass that yates used to have double belay loops abut removed them due to wear and tear against each other... I'll try to find out where this came from.

I'm looking for a new harness and I'll probably get this one. I've been very pleased with my other BD harnesses in the past.

John

Offline Feral Rat

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #34 on: February 06, 2008, 08:37:34 am »
Munge shouldn't that be come to Papa?  You switch hittin on us?

The one question I have is what does the back look like.  In particular, how did they wrap the one inch webbing around the back of the harness.  With the WT Raptor their is a wide piece of heavy webbing so the weight/force is distributed across your back.  From what I can see it does not look bad.

My experience with BD harnesses has been mixed.  Not at all happy with my current BD harness.
Here's ta sweat in your eye

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #35 on: February 06, 2008, 09:04:40 am »
Quote
In particular, how did they wrap the one inch webbing around the back of the harness.

That's the million dollar question for sure.  I'm not stoked on one inch webbing for back band.  The Yeats Shield has 1 3/4" webbing and that is as small as I think this should go.

On of the main problems with the Metolius Waldo harness is that it is basically a Super Safe with extra wide pads sewn on to beef it up.  At the core of the harness you still have the traditional one inch webbing.  My buddy has one that he isn't happy with. 

For now I'll stick with my Shield.  I'm on my 2nd because the tie in points, which are NOT reinforced, were so ate up.  If your out there John please sew tie in point protectors on all of your new harnesses.   

Belay loop tip of the day.

Tie a piece of 9/16" webbing into your tie in points for all your fifi hook, hauling, and general big wall chillin' needs.  The extra degree of freedom will put your mind at ease.

Offline Rags

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #36 on: February 06, 2008, 11:19:56 am »
I've read somewhere in the pass that yates used to have double belay loops abut removed them due to wear and tear against each other... I'll try to find out where this came from.

I'm looking for a new harness and I'll probably get this one. I've been very pleased with my other BD harnesses in the past.

John

John, I bought my Yates in '98/'99. It came with a single belay loop. They have never had two that I know of. The harness doesn't have the " web "around" it. I believe It is all one big swami (5 1/2"). Someone said the shield is 1 3/4"?". Maybe I'm forgetten, now I gotta go look. Anyway,  I have never used a shield, but you'll have to pry my Big wall from my cold dead hands. You really should take a close look at both. Not dissin BD, I've had a few.

The finest harness I've ever owned however, was made by Misty Mountain Threadworks. Look at them close if you get a chance, the craftsmanship and and attention to detail is par excellence, bar none. They have the Titan and Cadillac, but I don't know anyone that has them. I'm certain they are worth a look.
Back to the two loops. Get a hold of another loop and it's a piece of cake to add it to the Yates. I had a parachute rigger friend with the coast guard sew me one up. That second loop is just that, a second. It doesn't need to be as stout as the original. As long as it holds your body weight and any crap you attach to it, your fine. Just don't use it to belay.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2008, 11:27:51 am by Rags »
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline Craig Peer

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #37 on: February 06, 2008, 11:59:25 am »
Quote
Belay loop tip of the day.

Tie a piece of 9/16" webbing into your tie in points for all your fifi hook, hauling, and general big wall chillin' needs.  The extra degree of freedom will put your mind at ease.


I use a locking 'biner. Always have, even 20 years ago.

I like the Yates Shield myself. I use an Astroman for free climbing.

Offline Mike.

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #38 on: February 06, 2008, 12:19:08 pm »
I'm with you, Craig. Biners wear on the har way less than webbing.

I use two Petzl William keylock screwgates, a sweet piece for the task. Yes, it can be more cluster-y, depending on the har, but I like having a belay loop or two free for jugging backups and deucies. My aiders stay on the biners; nice to instantly alleviate the inevitable CF. And I have taken daisy falls on those biners. (And on--OMG--Spectra...Not buying the yurgonnadie hype on Spectra daisy falls. Not at all.)
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Feral Rat

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #39 on: February 06, 2008, 02:07:38 pm »
Rags
I have used Yates (I hated the Yates cuz I ended up with really bad sores, to soft), and the Misty Cadillac.  The WT Raptor was was better than the Cad.  The workmanship of the Misty's was very nice but a notch down from WT.  The Raptor is very supportive of the lower back.

Always used 9/16" webbing in addition to the belay loop.  The biner sounds like a good idea.

I have taken a couple of daisy falls on my spectra daisy.  They work and I love em.
Here's ta sweat in your eye

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #40 on: February 06, 2008, 03:11:11 pm »
Personally I hate plastic gear loops.  I've heard too many stories of them breaking and dumping a quarter of the rack.  So sadly the BD one is out in my book.

My shield is OK, but it is a bit too bulky at times.  I hate the buckles.  They loosen on me during the day, and are hard to get snug enough.  I'd rather have the cinch buckles like on the tactical version.  I also hate their total lies about sizing.  I am in the middle of the XL range, and above the L sizing window, but the XL barely cinches down tight enough for me.

My old free climbing harness was the old BD Big Wall, long since discontinued, it never had a chance to get used on big walls, but was perfect for long multipitch due to the extra width.  It had one feature I've missed ever since I retired it, 2 Haul Loops!  I like keeping my snack bag, my chalk bag, and a biner of "just in case" stuff (tibloc, belay knife, autoblock loop, tiny light) back there as well as using it as a place for the haul line.  One haul loop just ain't enough for me.  On my shield I have that annoying back gear loop that is long enough that I can almost never find anything I clip back there!

The atroman is OK, but is a step down from my BD Big Wall in the areas of gear loops and haul loops.  I find the hanging belay comfort about the same.

On all of them I really want an adjustable rise!
« Last Edit: February 06, 2008, 03:19:20 pm by Garbonzo »

Offline Rags

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #41 on: February 06, 2008, 09:41:03 pm »
Well if this thread tells us anything - there are as many personal preferences and opinions as there are harnesses

Thank god
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #42 on: March 14, 2010, 02:12:52 pm »
Trying to buy a harness for my Dad.  He has about a size 38" waste, I was going to buy him a Cadillac, anyone own one that could chime in with which size, L or XL?  Unfortunately I can't get to a place for him to try it on....

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #43 on: March 14, 2010, 03:45:03 pm »
Hoi-

I just put on my Caddy (SZ LRG), I have a 33/34 inch waist.  So I added 2" on the belt to either side of the double buckles, making the belt approx 38".  There was under 2" of tail on both sides.  That being said, I wear this harness on the middle to smaller side (Suck it down tight).  I think you should get the XL for your dad, This will allow for heavier clothing and such.  It should fit perfectly.

All of the walls I have done were in a shield harness, one gripe is the hammer holster is rigid, so when you sleep at night the thing pokes you in the back not allowing you to lay flat without turning the swami to one side or the other.

I had Dave at Misty sew me a hammer holster in the same place as the shield but with flexible material. HE charged me $5 for the addition!  It lays flat when you bivy.

The caddy is top notch and was very well thought out, drop legs and all.

Hope this helps!

Mucci

Offline Caz

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #44 on: March 15, 2010, 08:55:39 pm »
I'm a 38" waist and climb in a caddy. Go with the XL unless you think he'll loose wait and get to a 34...


Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline mhudon

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #45 on: March 16, 2010, 09:25:40 am »
Both the Shield and the Cadillac look like the waist band is adjustable on both sides. Is that right? Which one do you all here think is better?

Offline Caz

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #46 on: March 16, 2010, 09:30:47 am »
I use the Cadillac for free climbing and the Shield for walls.
I do this for fun...

Offline mhudon

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #47 on: March 16, 2010, 09:32:45 am »
Is the Shield adjustable on both sides?

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #48 on: March 16, 2010, 11:44:11 am »
Both the shield and Caddy have double buckles, so yes they are adjustable on both sides.

You can fine tune the Caddy a bit more than the shield.  The yates buckles and 2in tape make it hard to get that perfect fit.

I have broken in the left buckle on both and keep the right stationary, this has worked well so far.


Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #49 on: March 16, 2010, 01:18:55 pm »
I find the shield to be really comfy (never worn the Caddy) the biggest downfall is the wacky sizing (run very large) and the really difficult buckles...really difficult (for me at least)

Offline Slakkey

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #50 on: March 16, 2010, 05:26:00 pm »
I like both the Astroman and Shield by Yates for me they are very comfortable. Got to agree about the sizing though I am a W32 and I have a medium Astroman and I find I cinch it down pretty tight. I have no problem wearing a small in the shield especially with the double waist adjustment.

Offline Mike.

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #51 on: March 16, 2010, 05:51:35 pm »
Been hearing about slippage on the Shield harnesses from more than oner user. That har just doesn't fit me. Non-adj risers do not work with my short torso.

I have a Waldo and like it okay, but if I had another chance I'd get a Big Gun.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #52 on: March 16, 2010, 06:56:57 pm »
I buy 30" waist pants (it's hard to fine 29") but usually they shrink and I'm fine with that. Right now, I just worked out and I'm at 29". Do you all think a small will be small enough for me?

I had a custom Waldo made (a small was too big) but it turned out sort of katy-wompus. It's like they "resized it" by simply cutting a bunch off one end.

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #53 on: March 16, 2010, 06:57:39 pm »
^^^Yup,

Hauling really loosens it up.  Every morning you got to cinch it down before you go.

Now that I think about it that is another problem/complaint I have with the shield.

Oh well, it's function far outweighs the cons.

MHUDON- a small shield should be just right. 
« Last Edit: March 16, 2010, 06:59:19 pm by *Mucci* »

Offline mhudon

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #54 on: March 16, 2010, 07:11:08 pm »
I thought they fixed the problem with the slipping buckles?

Mucci-Thanks!

Offline mhudon

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #55 on: March 16, 2010, 10:18:03 pm »
I just ordered one. I hope it works out, I'm getting a bit tired of spending money for this adventure....

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #56 on: March 16, 2010, 11:00:58 pm »
No, you're not. Obviously.
All good, though.
I would spend a lot to be able to chill in a high, lonely spot.
I have, & will again.
It's just such a bitchen spot, man.

Ooooops, sorry. I DO go on...

Offline Mike.

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #57 on: March 17, 2010, 08:01:15 am »
Great dialog. A few redirections is worth getting to a harness you love. So key for bliss on high.

Scary thing, Mark, is once tooled up one has way less excuse not to keep knocking them off. A few soft goods here & there, bah. I see some bros into motor sports and realize what cheap thrills we have. And way more rad!


skully, the patient one will be the victor, and to the victor...

Cheers.







vvv Ah, the balance. It's all about the balance, as T2 says. I've had three years of actual employment since '88, and it works for me. Balance! Pardon my drift...
« Last Edit: March 17, 2010, 12:02:02 pm by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #58 on: March 17, 2010, 08:59:23 am »
My motto is "I'm not dead yet", and after acquiring all the gear I'll have no excuse. Peggy and I want to sell the Coffee Co. within the next five years so I may be retired after that. That will put me at 59 but so far so good for my health and all. Even still, I have a loving, understanding wife and if all goes as planned this year, I'll make four trips to Yosemite. Two long weekend trips (from here in Oregon) and two three week trips. Hard to beat that and still have a job, eh?

Offline Caz

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Re: Harnesses
« Reply #59 on: September 22, 2010, 03:13:34 pm »
Not to bring another topic back from the dead but...

I just picked up a Yates Tactical Shield harness. Everything is the same as the standard Shield except 2 things. First, it's all black. Second and why I got it, it has the industrial buckles that I have on my full body harness for work. They are kinda like the no double back buckles on the petzl harness but for 2" webbing. John Yates is not sure how much if any they will slip while hauling, but it takes less than a second to tighten them up and you can do it on lead.

I'm gonna give this thing a go on my next wall and let you know how it holds up.


Zac
I do this for fun...