Author Topic: wall Shoes  (Read 38416 times)

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Offline the_dude

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wall Shoes
« Reply #30 on: October 09, 2006, 08:12:46 pm »
I gave the La Sportiva Cirque Pros a test run this week in the valley. After one wall the are still in great shape. The toes wore down a bit but not any more than any other wall shoe. No delaming or other signs of wear. They ended up being pretty comfy standing in slings. The rubber seemed alittle slick at first but once scuffed up a bit they preformed much better. The actually free climbed alright, not quite as sensitive as the guide tennies though. Overall I think there a Keeper.

Offline needlz

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #31 on: July 08, 2008, 05:22:57 pm »
Well, I finally killed my B5's so I figured I'd let everyone know how they suffered.  I really liked them alot and put about 30 real aid pitches on them and wore them on countless other cragging treks.  They never hurt my arches and they free climbed pretty well too.  Towards the end, the rubber started to get slick.  I've seen this in my other la sportiva shoes, so it must be the rubber they use.  I finally wore through most of the toe box, tried to shoe goo it back together with an extra rubber layer and even more shoe goo.  I think the constant skitching I did on the West Face of Leaning Tower with my left foot was what really put the hurt on it.  Even though I wore all the way through the rubber to some white underlayer, my toes never got crushed.  I bought a pair of Five-Ten guide tennies in the valley to replace them.  The guide tennies had much better traction, but hurt my arches after long periods of time.  The guide tennies also don't lace down as tight as the B5's did for an all around snug feel. 

I'd get the B5's again over the Guide Tennies because I thought it was a much better overall aid shoe.

Anyone else out there got some good reports on cheap wall shoes.  I saw the B5's on sale somewhere the other day for $50, but forget where.

Offline johnmac

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #32 on: July 14, 2008, 10:51:36 am »

Offline Mike.

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #33 on: July 14, 2008, 02:16:38 pm »
Some opinions are currently floating around the net.


RC.com editorial review of the shoe forthcoming...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline BriGuy

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #34 on: December 30, 2008, 11:30:43 am »
Tecnica Mtn Approach Shoe

I got a pair of these cheep and they lasted longer than any other wall shoe I've had. Pretty stiff under foot, sticky rubber, cheep, durable. The La Sportive Cirque Pro's performed well for me, but I destroyed them very fast (15-20 pitches in zion) and I would not recommend them. I just got a pair of guide tennies to try.

I won't spend more than $50 (preferably $40 or less) on wall shoes since they wear so fast, so the Tecnica fit the bill. I've also had Exum Ridges and Colorado Trails from La Sp. and they did ok, but not wonderful.  A few sites have the Tecnica's for cheep right now.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #35 on: December 30, 2008, 11:44:06 am »
Evolv has the Maximus and Stryker on closeout for $69 and $45 on their website if anyone is interested.  I grabbed a pair of each for the heck of it.

Offline johnmac

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #36 on: December 30, 2008, 02:40:09 pm »
Did you get the extra toe rand and stiff sole as well?

Offline johnmac

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #37 on: December 30, 2008, 02:52:50 pm »
http://www.backcountryoutlet.com/outlet/EVL0012/Evolv-Maximus-Approach-Shoe-Mens.html

The maximus are 59.58 at backcountry outlet. They have limited sizes.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #38 on: December 30, 2008, 10:18:05 pm »
Just grabbed the standard ones.  The other outfit doesn't have my size, so looks like I didn't waste any money.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #39 on: January 08, 2009, 12:26:32 am »
looks like a stellar shoe

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #40 on: January 08, 2009, 12:37:53 am »
crap, can't purchase without creating an account. it asks you to confirm the shipping address, when the form says only fill it out if it differs.

not tonight I guess.

Offline Caz

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #41 on: January 11, 2009, 11:17:10 am »
I did a small review on them over on Mountain Project.

Here's the link.



http://www.mountainproject.com/v/big_wall_and_aid_climbing/evolv_big_wall_boot_review/106158674


I love them, I'm never climbing a wall in anything else (until something better comes along)



Zac
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Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #42 on: January 11, 2009, 03:26:01 pm »
the arch support really makes a difference, eh?

that's the real bene I see in them. 

The heating by black rand issue is a non trivial thing, but is probably outweighed by other factors like the arch and durability.

i better hold off, just saw my CC bill from trip to Utah.

btw, who's done Fisher Towers routes?




Offline offset

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #43 on: January 11, 2009, 11:28:18 pm »
i've climbed kingfisher by the easy route... and the wall shoes i was using was lasportiva ventors... they are rad, but not as high-top rad as those maxim lookin things...

here's the left one, atop the p2 chimney.  (it looks like a cluster, but really wasn't - i was sorting out the whole solo thing)


Offline Mike.

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #44 on: January 15, 2009, 08:39:35 am »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #45 on: January 16, 2009, 01:08:18 am »
I guess your feet are different than mine Mike. I wore the Max on a solo of, granted it was only 3 days and not 20, but I thought they fit me great. I've tried a few other types of wall shoes but never found anything that I could stand in the aiders for too long for. I'm gonna use them on some more stuff this year, hopefully something big but I think that they fit my feet great. I do agree about the black and I'm gonna try your idea of the primer.


Thanks for the review buddy.

Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline Kiron Kid

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #46 on: January 17, 2009, 11:18:40 pm »

   I just picked up a pair of Sportiva Cirque Pro's. I hope they hold up well. They feel fine, here behind the puter with a beer in hand. I'll report back after cruisin' a wall with them. Couldn't pass them up. ? price at REI.  :-)

Kiron Kid

Offline johnmac

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #47 on: February 13, 2009, 12:11:07 pm »
Earlier today I tried on several pairs of Sportiva tradmasters and I was surprised at how comfortable they were. I played around with sizing (wore socks) and figured out that I would need to go up about a size from my street shoe size, but they might be a nice wall shoe. They are stiff and supportive.

I'm stick of carrying two pair of shoes on walls, particular in places like zion where you always have some "approach" or run out 5.8/9 on a wall. All I have to do is find them on sale somewhere so I don't have to spend 110 on my experiment.

Has anyone ever tried them?


Offline Kiron Kid

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #48 on: February 13, 2009, 02:24:33 pm »
Johnmac

   I had to go up in sizing too, with my Sportiva Cirques. How about you Moe?

Kiron Kid

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #49 on: February 15, 2009, 12:12:10 am »
watch the stiching on the cirque pros, otherwise they rock. dab of goo should protect em.

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #50 on: April 18, 2009, 09:49:18 pm »
I've always worn whatever.
I even did a wall(Tribal) in EB's. DO not do this. It hurt.
I am using 5.10 approach shoes now. They were cheap.

Offline KevinW

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #51 on: April 19, 2009, 08:45:46 am »
I don't think there is one perfect wall shoe for everyone, especially when it comes *fit & comfort*. I picked up a pair of Evolv Maximus last year and grew to love them in a very short time. Not only can I stand in aiders for extended periods without any real discomfort, but I was surprised how well they free climb for a boot-style shoe. I read the supertopo review, and  was not surprised at the one photo of wear on the toe(s). I've never found any shoe that didn't require reinforcement (multiple layers of duct tape)  over the toes, to see them through and extended aid climb.
Unfortunately though, what seems to happen whenever I find something that works for me, within a short time, (if not immediately) it's discontinued.  I did manage to buy another pair while shoes in my size were still available. After I wear those out.. who knows. So if you are considering grabbing a pair of Maximus, especially if your shoe size falls in the standard 9-10 US range, you might want to do it a.s.a.p.

Offline offset

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #52 on: February 11, 2010, 06:45:55 pm »
Tecnica Mtn Approach Shoe

I got a pair of these cheep and they lasted longer than any other wall shoe I've had. Pretty stiff under foot, sticky rubber, cheep, durable. The La Sportive Cirque Pro's performed well for me, but I destroyed them very fast (15-20 pitches in zion) and I would not recommend them. I just got a pair of guide tennies to try.

I won't spend more than $50 (preferably $40 or less) on wall shoes since they wear so fast, so the Tecnica fit the bill. I've also had Exum Ridges and Colorado Trails from La Sp. and they did ok, but not wonderful.  A few sites have the Tecnica's for cheep right now.

bri, or anyone else have sizing feedback for the tecnica mtn approach shoes?? 

Offline johnmac

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #53 on: February 16, 2010, 10:14:18 pm »
The fit is true to size but I recommend going down 1/2 size if your going to be aid climbing or climbing rock pitches in them.  This is from the link below:


http://www.explore64.com/explore64/TEC0021/Tecnica-MTN-Approach-Shoe-Mens.html?swatch=MNADN

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #54 on: April 12, 2010, 11:39:36 pm »

miwuksurfer

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #55 on: April 13, 2010, 09:27:12 am »
$235?! Is there a hidden jet pack in those La Sportivas?

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #56 on: April 13, 2010, 09:44:54 am »
If you want sticky rubber but aren't too concerned about precise edging, the 5.10 mountain bike shoes seem to have potential.  Good arch support, really high & beefy toecap, stiff enough but not wooden-feeling.  And since there're a lot more mountain bikers than big wall climbers, the price is reasonable and they're not likely to get discontinued on us.

They're also fscking awesome for flat-pedal riding.  I just upgraded from a pair of skate shoes to the 5.10 impacts for trials riding, and the difference is incredible. 

MEC only had the lowtop, but the high version should offer better ankle support:
http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/27-impact-high

Offline hoots

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #57 on: April 13, 2010, 09:48:19 am »
I have had nothing but great experience with the several pairs of 5.10 Camp 4 and Exum Guide boots.  I put in close to 100 wall pitches and hundreds of miles of backcountry hiking on my first pair of Camp 4s before I retired them, and that was from cracking the heel cup out- the sole was still in ok shape!  Guide tennies are in pieces almos out of the box though.  

Offline Slakkey

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #58 on: April 13, 2010, 10:25:15 am »
I have been looking at the 5.10 Camp 4s I have tired a number of different things  and agree that there is truly not a perfect wall shoe out there. The 5.10 guide tennie is good for shorter routes and where you need to move from aid to free to aid again but they do wear quickly. Was looking at the new La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoe but dont really like the heel as it looks like it might wear fast and get hung up in the aiders. The homemade thing works but find they too wear fast as well even with re enforcement.

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #59 on: April 13, 2010, 11:20:25 am »
ive tryed a lot of shoes but never been as satisfied as with these patagonia shoes. stiff sole, free climb super well, NO toe wear...

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Patagonia-Footwear-Huckleberry-Approach-Shoe-Mens/PTF0003M.html