Author Topic: wall Shoes  (Read 38414 times)

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Offline scottydo

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #60 on: April 14, 2010, 01:20:06 am »
I don't think there is one perfect wall shoe for everyone, especially when it comes *fit & comfort*. I picked up a pair of Evolv Maximus last year and grew to love them in a very short time. Not only can I stand in aiders for extended periods without any real discomfort, but I was surprised how well they free climb for a boot-style shoe. I read the supertopo review, and  was not surprised at the one photo of wear on the toe(s). I've never found any shoe that didn't require reinforcement (multiple layers of duct tape)  over the toes, to see them through and extended aid climb.
Unfortunately though, what seems to happen whenever I find something that works for me, within a short time, (if not immediately) it's discontinued.  I did manage to buy another pair while shoes in my size were still available. After I wear those out.. who knows. So if you are considering grabbing a pair of Maximus, especially if your shoe size falls in the standard 9-10 US range, you might want to do it a.s.a.p.

how did these boots compare to your street shoe size wise? They pretty true to size or did you go a bit smaller/bigger?

Offline mhudon

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #61 on: April 14, 2010, 08:54:17 am »
I'm giving these a try. http://www.rei.com/product/797841

miwuksurfer

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #62 on: April 14, 2010, 09:52:19 am »
http://www.rei.com/product/797841

$95 is much more humane.  You could buy a couple pairs even.  For the cost of one of those high tops.  I can't stand paying more than $100 for a pair of shoes unless its for ice climbing or skiing, then they tend to last forever. Shoes that touch rock are going to wear out quick, no matter what glues, rands, etc they are using.  Granted, some styles do last longer than others, but they all are going to exlpode at some point.

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #63 on: April 14, 2010, 10:01:10 am »
how did these boots compare to your street shoe size wise? They pretty true to size or did you go a bit smaller/bigger?

I'm usually 10 or 10.5 street, and the 10.5 maximus is ok but tight.  Not comfy for long approaches, but good on the wall.


Offline Slakkey

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #64 on: April 14, 2010, 10:14:58 am »
Mark, The Boulder X shoe is an updated version of the Cirque Pro. I had been checking them out as well. The original Cirque Pros worked well for me for awhile. As I posted earlier the only thing I am somewhat skeptical about the Boulder X is the sole at the heel. Its a pretty sharp edge and has some flair to it more so than the older Cirque Pros. This could wear down faster and depending on what type of aiders one uses could potentially get hung up now and then. By no means is it a total deal breaker as I am still giving them consideration as I use aid ladders and it may not be an issue plus the price is right.

As for those fancy La Sportivas No friggin way am I paying over 2 bills for those things.

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #65 on: April 14, 2010, 12:30:32 pm »
I've also used both the classic La Sportiva approach shoes, the Cirque Pro and the red ones? Or are those the red ones? EIther way those red ones and the tan and yellow ones. Both pairs barley made it up one wall. Some of the worst shoes I've owend. While I love the Mythos for climbing my experince with La Sportiva approach shoes is they suck and WILL wear out soon. I did the captain and a couple of small walls in those Patagonia shoes with NO signs of wear. I only had to get a new pair becuase they were given to me and they were a bit too small to walk around in.

Offline BEMHO

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #66 on: April 20, 2010, 02:33:35 pm »
I have owned several pairs of wall shoes.  I have the old La sporto green high top boot, and a pair of old boreal approach shoes, and a pair of Boreal wall boots that at one time had the snow gator on them but I have since cut them off.  All of these are worn to death and hurt like hell.  I guess I just keep using them because they start hurting me and remind me that I am standing around and should be moving up.

I like the looks of the EVOLV shoe.  I were a size 12 does the size match a street shoe? 

I also did the TD with a guy who bought a pair of tennis shoes with velcro straps and he thought they were great for 30 bucks.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #67 on: April 27, 2010, 11:16:35 am »
Mark-

I would shoe goo / barge cement the shit out of the toe of those La Sportivas.  Without a toe bumper (the wrap up part of the sole that goes up the front of the shoe) I have found the sole gets really hammered and delams/pulls off...

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #68 on: April 27, 2010, 11:29:18 am »
I have owned several pairs of wall shoes.  I have the old La sporto green high top boot, and a pair of old boreal approach shoes, and a pair of Boreal wall boots that at one time had the snow gator on them but I have since cut them off.  All of these are worn to death and hurt like hell.  I guess I just keep using them because they start hurting me and remind me that I am standing around and should be moving up.

I like the looks of the EVOLV shoe.  I were a size 12 does the size match a street shoe? 

I also did the TD with a guy who bought a pair of tennis shoes with velcro straps and he thought they were great for 30 bucks.

I've found the toebox on the Evolv to be pretty low volume. Originally I was thinking they might make a good Wall-in-a-push where I convince myself that I can free climb on a BW, but that's fantasy. heh

Seriously tho, I've come to think of them more like just basic aid boots.  haven't spent stirrup time with them yet.

Offline offset

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #69 on: April 27, 2010, 02:54:26 pm »
got some patagonia finn's last week and put in a couple pitches on saturday....  so far they might be THE TICKET!!    super stiff midsole, burlfest toe action...even pulled some free moves.

they were on sale at mgear for $65

i think they are even made from recycled vegan coke bottles and tires...in china.

http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/Patagonia/idesc/Finn+Approach+Shoe+-+Men%27s/Store/MG/item/214149/N/0
« Last Edit: April 27, 2010, 03:01:34 pm by offset »

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #70 on: April 28, 2010, 12:20:22 am »
ya offset that is the shoe i was talking about i should have posted a link thanks! what a great shoe.

Offline mhudon

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #71 on: April 28, 2010, 12:03:27 pm »
I would shoe goo / barge cement the shit out of the toe of those La Sportivas.  Without a toe bumper (the wrap up part of the sole that goes up the front of the shoe) I have found the sole gets really hammered and delams/pulls off...

Thanks, I'll do that.

BTW, the Boulder X's have a pretty tight toe box. Min fit my foot well but toe box is tight on my toes. It's actually not bad if you intend on doing a little climbing with them but, at my regular size, I couldn't recommend them as leisure shoes.


Offline Caz

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #72 on: April 28, 2010, 02:14:15 pm »
Has anyone been 100% happy with their choice in wall shoe?

I loved the Cirque Pro on  the wall but by the last pitch they were about to explode off my feet.

The evolv maximus were good. But when I finally got on a wall in some heat they melted my feet, plus they were a bit clunky. I liked free climbing in them , but not above 5.8.


Can anyone say they have or had the perfect wall shoe?


Zac
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Offline mhudon

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #73 on: April 28, 2010, 02:34:07 pm »
In 1977 my RRs were getting resoled so I didn't have them for the Mescalito. Someone gave me a real big pair of EBs that I wore with a heavy pair of socks. They were comfy. I threw them off the top when we got done and never saw them again.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #74 on: April 28, 2010, 02:58:40 pm »
Caz,

Boreal Big Wall boot. Damn near perfect. But not quite. The feet still take a beating standing in aiders after day 2.  It just needs a reinforced sole like the evolvs, that supports the arch like a hiking boot.

I could so make a million bucks designing shoes. First I'd get Michael Jordan to take up big wallin. hahahahaha

Offline Mike.

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #75 on: April 28, 2010, 03:45:32 pm »
"Can anyone say they have or had the perfect wall shoe?"

What shoe works great for construction and ballet dancing? No such thing, Caz!


For max comfort standing in aiders in weather that's not hot, I'm with munge. I've had a couple pairs of those Boreals. Odd that on one pair the toes were bomb proof right out of the box; the other had thinner rands which wore through pronto. Not a bad idea to treat the toes preemptively no matter what the shoe.

I like a good approach shoe these days, but there are situations when my toes complain about the choice.


I think it's as much or more about your climbing tendencies as the shoe itself. If you're a free hero, you prolly want to capitalize on that strength. The route obviously comes into play too. Wall boots would be a questionable choice on the Nose or Salathe. Sized-up rock shoes with socks are a great m.o., and you can use em on casual free climbs.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #76 on: April 29, 2010, 12:33:44 am »
Mike-

These guys know what shoe works best for ballet and construction! duh!



Offline Mike.

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #77 on: April 29, 2010, 07:46:31 am »
Haha...barefoot is the key.

Something mighty disconcerting about that photo.


Are you getting all this, Caz?

: )
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #78 on: April 29, 2010, 11:14:36 am »
Well I think he got you Mike!


Hahahaha

that is some funny a$$ $hit!!!

I'm in court right now trying not to fall on the floor from laughing!

Thanks for the giggle while I'm waiting for my turn infront of the judge...
I do this for fun...

Offline johnmac

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #79 on: June 24, 2010, 02:37:34 pm »
Anyone tried anything new for wall shoes lately?

I'm still trying to find that compromise between between a rock shoe and a cheap boot.  My favourite is still five ten guide tennies, but they just stand up too well to abuse.

Mark, what did you where on your recent elcap trip?

Offline mhudon

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #80 on: June 24, 2010, 11:23:26 pm »
I wore the Boulder X shoes. They were comfy but I wore right through the front of the shoe in 24 pitches.

Offline BEMHO

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #81 on: June 25, 2010, 02:32:37 pm »
Mark,

I had the rubber room paste a toe cap on my La Spotiva wall shoes and that took care of the wear through problem.  I probably got 10 walls out of them before they hit the original toe rand again.


Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #82 on: June 25, 2010, 05:27:51 pm »
toe cap?

got any pics of the original?

sounds like a helluva good idea.

Offline mhudon

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #83 on: June 29, 2010, 08:59:42 pm »
Sweet, thanks for the tip, BEMHO.  The fit well enough and stand in slings well enough that I didn't want to have to search out a different pair.

Offline Caz

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #84 on: November 12, 2010, 05:17:58 pm »
Just used these on my last climb (not summit) http://www.evolvesports.com/escapist.htm

I loved them. They were super stiff and I didn't mind being in them all day. When I got into my ledge at the end of each day, I wasn't trying to rip them off. I did some EASY free climbing in them so I can't say how well they do on harder aid but I may climb some easy Jtree stuff in them in the next couple weeks.

Over all, they were good for hiking and standing in the aiders, plus there is no wear on them.


If you're looking for a good wall shoe, check these out...


Zac

I do this for fun...

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #85 on: November 14, 2012, 06:04:58 pm »
http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/maximus-yellow/


I eventually did use the old Maximus. They were dang near perfect for WCSF in a push, despite what I wrote above. They just needed to be broke in and gotten used to.

Different design this time around it looks like...


larry still shows these...

http://www.mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/rshoes/BorealBigwallClimbingShoe.htm



Offline lambone

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #86 on: November 18, 2012, 02:28:32 pm »
I'm a huge fan of the Garmont Dragontail. Mine made it through at least 5-6 El Cap routes and several grade Vs. Stiff, sticky, and bomber.


Offline johnmac

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #87 on: November 27, 2012, 10:54:04 am »
I have an old pair of the evolve Maximus shoes that I pretty much think is ideal, other than the color. I put an old ski boot insole in them to stiffen them up a bit. You can stand all day on them and they are pretty good out of the slings as well.

They're a little bit too big for me so I might sell them and buy the new model when it goes on sale at some stage.

Offline offset

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #88 on: November 27, 2012, 11:30:47 am »
i fell in love w/ the guide tennies last wall.  (after a very generous application of sh00g00)

those things can CLIMB!


Offline johnmac

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Re: wall Shoes
« Reply #89 on: November 27, 2012, 02:52:20 pm »
Yeah, the five 10's are pretty good...