Author Topic: Second set of stoppers  (Read 1113 times)

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Offline splitchard

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Second set of stoppers
« on: March 21, 2007, 02:08:16 pm »
Does anybody have any suggestions on getting a second set of stoppers?  I already have a set of Black Diamond Stoppers and HB Brass Offsets, so I am looking for something that will fill out and compliment these nicely.  Looking at possibly the new DMM Alloy Offsets due out this summer, DMM Wallnuts and Peanuts, and Wild Country Rocks.  Thanks!

Offline caribouman

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Re: Second set of stoppers
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2007, 10:28:48 pm »

Try to match the next set of stoppers to wherever you're climbing. 

Smaller stoppers work better in general, while larger stoppers begin to need to match the surface inside the crack.  Yosemite and any place with younger , less heavily glaciated mountains will tend to have sharper-edged cracks, which will tend to have more parallel surfaces.  Older, more worn down mountains tend towards cracks that flare, and are rounded at the surface.

 I've found hexes (Chouinard) to be very secure in Yosemite, and in some sandstone cracks in the desert (Nevada).  I really like the DMM Wallnuts for Cathedral Ledge and similar spots in Maine.  For breccia (Pinnacles Nat. Monument) and other places where the insides of cracks are pitted, Lowe Tri-cams are about it... the rails fit over the nubbies on one crack surface and the point seats in between the nubs/ in a hole on the other surface.  WC Rocks: I thought they didn't seem to seat very well, spun all over the place, and yet were very difficult to clean... 'course that was the very first batch on the market, so they could be entirely different now.  Cleanability has something to do with getting just the right radius on the corners of the nut.  (and just right/ cleaning hassles may depend on the area you're climbing in rather than an inherent flaw in the design of the stopper.

-Small stuff:  I've used the tiny, body-weight-only Chouinard/ BD's, DMM Peenuts, HB brass and RP brass.  {I don't know if RP exists any more. }  No complaints about any of them.  I did run into a spot once where I couldn't get a placement with the brass I had (pre- cam -hook days) and bought a second set of HB/RP brass, which I  filed down into mirror images of the first set.  Went back and tried the crack again, and bango! I had my placement.  You might also look at Pika, their "mallard" is supposed to be a sort of piton that's set with body weight.

For what it's worth, someone told me (Just down from the Shield) that he'd have been much happier with 5 or even 6 sets of brass rather than the two sets suggested for trade routes...

I don't know wether you were talking about small or large stoppers, so you got my opinions on both.  Hope it helps.
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Offline tomtom

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Re: Second set of stoppers
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2007, 12:16:00 pm »
My usual nut rack is:

HB Brass Offsets (0-6)
HB Alloy Offsets (7-11)
Trango Brassies (1-8)
DMM Wallnuts (1-11)

I really like the Trango Brassies.  They work pretty well as nuts, and the smaller sizes double as really long rivet hangers for the ones that are just out of reach.