Author Topic: Aliens, Ball Nuts, and Flaring Cracks  (Read 3435 times)

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Offline Dzfreefall

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Aliens, Ball Nuts, and Flaring Cracks
« on: March 19, 2006, 04:36:24 pm »
A friend of mine and I are planning a trip out to Yosemite to climb Salathe Wall this coming July.  It will be our first big wall and we have been training extensively and acquiring necessary gear.  I want to get a few more pieces of small active protection that will possibly work well in flaring cracks and pin scars.  Originally, I had intended to get offset aliens, but they seem too have disappeared from the market.  Does anyone know what happened to them?  In place of aliens, I have been looking at getting a set of Camp Ball Nuts.  It appears their design would allow them to work where cams will not.  However, I have not read of many people using ball nuts on big walls.  Does anyone have any experience with them, and will they work in cracks that flare out and pin scars?

Offline the_dude

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Aliens, Ball Nuts, and Flaring Cracks
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2006, 04:47:53 pm »
Ball nuts get mixed reviews. You either love them or hate them. I think I have anly placed one on a wall. For me they are hard to test. I've had partners rip because a ball nut blew. They are fairly cheap, so having a few on your rack for reassurance isn't a bad idea. I use aliens and offset aliens quite a bit. Try calling some mountain shops around the country to see if they have any in stock. last time I was in vegas a few weeks ago, I think Desert Rock Sport had some. as far as the gear you'll need for the Salathe, I can only offer advice for part of it. I've only done the Free Blast to connect to another route. The aid moves and gear placements were all straight forward. I would suspect the same for the rest of the route. Hope this helps a bit.

Offline freakshow

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Aliens, Ball Nuts, and Flaring Cracks
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2006, 09:35:53 pm »
Hybrid Aliens are still around.  I just bought a set a couple of weeks ago in Squamish.  Also, Tradrack.com had several sets of them a while back and may still have some available.

http://www.tradrack.com/index.php?cPath=1_6_70

Offline Dzfreefall

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Aliens, Ball Nuts, and Flaring Cracks
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2006, 09:50:17 pm »
Thanks for the link to Tradrack.com and advice, very useful!  Finding good climbing gear in Oklahoma is about as easy as finding a big wall here, impossible.:)  Plan to order some offsets this week.   I think we got the rest of the salathe wall rack handled.  Just need to keep working on big wall skills between now and July.  Off course, any unsolicited advice anyone wants to offer up is always welcomed.   Thanks again. DZ

Offline mungeclimber

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Aliens, Ball Nuts, and Flaring Cracks
« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2006, 10:30:14 pm »
more power to ya... "Go up!"

Offline syrinx

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Aliens, Ball Nuts, and Flaring Cracks
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2006, 10:55:05 am »
it takes balls to use a shitty ailen placement, but it don't take ailens to use a shitty ball placement.
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

skully

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Re: Aliens, Ball Nuts, and Flaring Cracks
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2012, 07:40:53 pm »
That is a great line that bears repeating...

It takes balls to use a shitty ailen placement, but it don't take ailens to use a shitty ball placement.
Syrinx knows a thing or two, maybe. I think so.
« Last Edit: January 28, 2012, 07:43:43 pm by skully »