Author Topic: Cam Hooks  (Read 2975 times)

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Offline the_dude

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Cam Hooks
« on: November 25, 2006, 10:21:32 am »
So I have the standard sizes evn some with filed down tips. I'd say I pull them out occasionally on trade routes, but usually after I've tried something else first. I reach for aliens first everytime and for some reason am more comfortable leapfrogging small aliens than cam hooks. So I don't know how much they actually speed me up. How often do you guys reach for em on trade routes, and do you feel they are a big time saver?

Offline jake

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Re: Cam Hooks
« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2006, 12:53:25 pm »
Most the time I use cam hooks a cam would not fit.  I like them on expando stuff, can make a expando section really easy and quick.  They come in handy on long sideways reaches where you normally would need to place a pin, but a cam hook is way less strenuous.  I've heard of a move that a 6' 3" guy did on his new route that was like this.  He said it would have been impossible for him to place a pin.  So they surely have there place in lowering the hole count at times.  I always bring them but I'm not using them non stop like some people.  Just don't be scared of using them, because most the time they are quite solid.

If you are going for clean climbing to the max, be prepared to use them a lot.  Filed tips is good sounding, I've done a lot of tipped out cam hooking and always am concerned when a ledge is below me.  The easier the aid the more I use them on harder aid I almost always will place what I feel is most bomber and that rarely seems like a cam hook.  The best wall climber I know doesn't own any...  but he may not even own aliens.

edit: Wanted to add that cam hooks exert quite a bit of force on features.  So you need to be able to identify features that are loose as being different than just expando.  If you got a hammer on you tap the feature to get an idea.  Just listen to it, I'm not going to tell you what noises are good and what are bad, that is for you to figure out.  Also beware that an expando feature can turn into a loose feature if you fuck it up enough.  I've never done this with a cam hook but my friend did it up on el cap and ripped a decent block off a pitch on Aurora.  He placed a inverted cam hook in what he thought was good and well the block wasn't attached well enough for that kind of force.  Testing the feature with his hammer probably would have prevented this. 
« Last Edit: November 25, 2006, 05:22:43 pm by jake »

Offline Rags

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Re: Cam Hooks
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2006, 12:42:40 pm »
.........think cam hook................................................................................................think cam hook..........................................................................think cam hook...........
Hey Dude, I look at cam hooks as less a specialty piece and more a utility piece. I use them often. Have you ever done a pitch where you leep-frog cams? Cams hooks are even easier under the right circumstances. If you have a bomber piece below, why not hook a couple moves?

My FIRST experience with one came on the second pitch of the Prow. If you've been up it, the second pitch leaves a ledge and the crack is narrow and a bit flared. We didn't have offset nuts, we were climbing it clean and carried no pins. Regular nuts were shit, but I got up a couple placements then got stuck. Then it occured to me to try the leeper. Gotta say I was shitting...flare...marginal nuts below...ledge below that...and now I gotta trust this P.O.S... What did Gomer say? "SUPRISE, SUPRISE, SUPRISE." The "stuck" became unstuck, and I moved up on it carefully, but it was good! I got a better nut above, and hooked a couple more times that pitch. Been sold ever since. There are cracks they don't work well, but play with them, they'll grow on you.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline the_dude

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Re: Cam Hooks
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2006, 12:51:58 pm »
I've defenitely used them on every wall I've been on. I'm just not in the habit of reaching for them first. For some reason mentally they feel different than leapfrogging cams. Gotta change those old habits I guess..

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Cam Hooks
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2006, 02:12:50 pm »
How do you file your cam hooks?  I'm curious what benefit you get from the filing - are you making them thinner or creating sizes (widths) that the manufacturer doesn't make?

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Cam Hooks
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2007, 10:37:39 am »
Quote
How do you file your cam hooks?

yeah, i'd like to see a pix of that.

Do you file them to a point in middle?  Seems like you get better holding power from the ends as they bit into the rock.  Maybe it makes them more stable in angle scares and pods as it would better match curvature of the pin scar.


Offline the_dude

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Re: Cam Hooks
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2007, 05:09:44 pm »
I'll try to post a pic in the next couple of days. But basically with the bigger size you file the top side to make the tip thinner. The size doesn't change, definetely not filing it to a point. Helps out in some scars.   

Offline the_dude

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Re: Cam Hooks
« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2007, 12:25:43 pm »
Here are a few pics of the filed cam hook...



Offline Raaf

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Re: Cam Hooks
« Reply #8 on: May 03, 2007, 10:36:43 pm »
Never heard any confirmation on the cam hook filing suggestion. I'm intrigued, but no one else chimed in to say they agree. Anyone?