Author Topic: what's in your bolt bag?  (Read 2991 times)

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Offline alpineH

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what's in your bolt bag?
« on: April 20, 2007, 03:21:28 am »
Good morning everyone.
     So I was going through my gear list for an upcoming elcap climb and can?t seem to decide on what to bring in my bolt bag.   I am trying to go as light as possible? might it be a good idea to not bring a bolt kit at all? What do you guys bring for an already established route and how do you come up with that list.  thanks

Offline the_dude

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2007, 09:27:11 am »
Depends on the route really. If it's a trade route and hammerless, I prefer to go light so I skip the hammer and bolt kit and throw in a cheater stick instead. If I already have a hammer with, a few 3/8 x 2 1/4 are worth throwing in. I have yet to venture into the realm of obscurities, but I would probably bring much more. Locally, sport climbing, I dewalt 24v is in my bag.

Offline lambone

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2007, 04:16:49 pm »
Totally depends on the route.

My list of routes that I wouldn't bring a kit on:
Nose
Muir
Salathe
Dihedral
Lurking Fear
Zodiac
Tangerine Trip
Tripple Direct
Shield
North America Wall
(Possibly More I'm forgetting)

Pertty much every other route has some bad lead rivets, and unless you have a looong cheaterstick, if you blew one up high you'd be having a bad day real quick.

In my kit I ussualy have:
Petzl Drill
2-3/8 bolts
4-5 1/4 buttonhead rivets
blow tube
wrench

If you're route is known for bad bolts, (example - Tis-si-ack), then you may want to bring old-bolt cleaning tools and a patch kit.

~bone

Offline alpineH

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2007, 11:29:01 pm »
Thanks guys,
     Dihedral is the route I will be on, so I'll probable just through in a rivet or two just so I don't kick my self in the ass 3/4 up the wall.  thanks again.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2007, 10:45:53 pm »
Here's the list of ASCA rebolting efforts on Yose big walls...

http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitebigwalls.htm

Offline Raaf

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2007, 01:00:19 pm »
I'm preparing for a return to Yosemite this June, with plans for Zodiac.

While my prior wall experiences are a bit dated (Nose '89, backed off Triple Direct in '94), it seems like the 'just in case' principle might apply at least a little in bringing a bolt kit. I've never drilled a bolt in my life, but until I saw this discussion I thought it was common practice to just throw the hand drill and a few bolts/hangars in the bottom of the bag.

Is it really the case that with the ASCA's efforts and a long cheater stick as backup, that you would completely forego bringing the bolt kit?

Offline lambone

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2007, 01:14:59 pm »
On routes like Zodiac, yes.

If you look at the asca report for each route it will tell you what you can expect. If it says ("some/many poor lead rivets remain"), then it is proably smart to bring the kit.

For instance here is a recent beta posting on Supertopo RE:Mescalito
"Anyway, there's a broken rivet on pitch 15. It is sheared off pretty close to the rock and we passed it using our fly's pole as a 12 foot cheat stick. You clip a head that's about 10 feet away and placed above a small ramp that raises, running left to right. I didn't see any way around it, but it was dark out. You might be able to hook the old rivet, but I didn't try that option. "

Mescalito, although a trade route with bomber anchors does have some bad rivet ladders up high, as do many other routes. However most of the real popular Trade routes like Zodiac, the Prow, Nose, Tangerine Trip, etc, have been completey retro-ed including new lead bolts (often 3/8" w/hangers thanks to Sloan). The bottom line is that it is smarrt to research the condition of the route you are getting on.

If your intended route is one of these completel retro-ed routes then bringing the bolt kit is really just extra weight in the bag and temptation to drill a hole/chicken bolt.

On the otherhand, one could make the arguement for allways having a bolt kit on hand just incase you had to perform a dicey self rescue and drill new anchors or something.

 

Offline alpineH

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2007, 12:15:43 am »
mungeclimber-
thanks, I would have never thought of lookin on this site. as of 2003 this is what they say.

"Dihedral Wall: Replaced 26 anchor and protection bolts. Most bolted belays have 2 good 3/8" bolts. Some poor protection bolts remain.  Erik Sloan, Michael Nelson" 

Looks like a few extra bolts on the solo tag rack is in order.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2007, 12:42:43 am »
no worries, good thread.

Offline Mike.

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #9 on: July 30, 2009, 10:00:38 pm »
Too much gear is in my bolt bag.


I purchased gear for a big wall rebolting project awhile back. The project fell through and most of the hardware (3/8" SS 5-piece, 1/4" BH and SDS drills) has sat since. That's sort of a waste right now. I'd rather see it used for the intended purpose than sell it. So, if any one of our civic-minded overachievers with HW exp or desire is of mind to do some replacement work on any Yo classic (or not classic), and like many of us has been tight, I can supply some HW. Most of my experience has been in the Valley so I'd like this gear to be used there.

I'd love to spend more time doing the work myself. I'm hoping to do that later (hey, didder), but I have more than I'll need for the immediate project.

These great lines aren't just going to fix themselves, yo. Let me know.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2009, 10:02:35 pm by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2009, 10:28:41 pm »
I don't even own a drill. One of these days I'm gonna need to buy one.

Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2009, 10:39:50 pm »
On trade routes I bring nothing.  For rebolting efforts or when i think a route may be iffy I bring:

Pika drill handle (works but kind of don't like it)
2x 3/8" bits (in case one chips)
2-?x bolts rigged already into their hangers.  I like either Rawl 5 piece SS 3/8"x2.25" or Fixe 3/8"x2.75" wedge bolts.
Pair of pliers
wrench with keeper cord to match whatever bolts I'm sporting
blow tube (1/4" polyethylene crap)
bottle brush (~5/8" nylon bristle)

I really like the little rubber washer on the Fixe's so that it holds the whole unit firmly together.  The Rawls tend to fall apart in the bottom of the bolt bag, resulting in annoying fishing and fumbling.