Author Topic: "So class, what did you do this summer?"  (Read 4965 times)

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Offline Baltoro

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"So class, what did you do this summer?"
« on: September 20, 2007, 10:22:07 pm »
Here's a chance to report back about all you did or didn't get done this summer.

Did you climb your "unicorn" (the route that always seems just out of reach for one reason or another)?

Did you epic on the 2nd pitch of Giraffe Lips and spend the night in slings vertically spooning your partner that you haven't heard from since then?

Did you climb something you didn't think you could or get spanked by something you shouldn't have?

I was prepping for a trip to the Valley and didn't get out as much as I should've with my partner. He wasn't ready and I wasn't ready to go it alone. We spent a year watching the calendar go by and have no one to blame but ourselves. Definately motivation for the next go 'round. In the process though I've soloed a lot of pitches and really feel like I broke through some barriers.

Interesting side note: I mostly soloed in prep for this trip but this was always as training for a partnered ascent. When I found out that my partner was not going, I did a couple of climbs solo to see if I was up for it and it was completely different. I just wasn's as motivated, the route was much more intimidating (I'd done it before, solo) and everything seemed so much more daunting. Weird mind tricks. Oh well. Everything is a lesson learned for next time. I still had a great summer and I look forward to bailing in the upward blowing snow and rain (again) while training for next year.

So what did you do?
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline lambone

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2007, 11:42:20 pm »
The North America Wall and the Muir Wall. Two classics that I've wanted to do for the last 10 years or so. They were both worth the wait. Did them in a pretty casual 'party style' ie many bivis, and tried to place as few pins as possible.

Also did some sport climbing, and taught some kids to climb..which is my latest focus in climbing.

cheers

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2007, 12:13:28 am »
nice lamb.




I did secret things that can only be talked about in dark granite corridors over beers and burritos.
I have subsequently asked forgiveness for my sins.  My penance, treat October like it's September.


Offline Craig Peer

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2007, 08:08:37 am »
Quote
I did secret things that can only be talked about in dark granite corridors over beers and burritos.
I have subsequently asked forgiveness for my sins.  My penance, treat October like it's September.

It's nice and cool now Munge. Time for Freak Show, eh??

Offline xtrmecat

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2007, 10:55:47 am »
  I tried to solo my first big rock in May. Took a 50 footer head first tethered to my haul bag on the approach. Scared me bad enough to sit and contemplate and let my fear run the decision process. Had to drop the bag to get out of the pinch and back the approach up about 3 or 4 hours. A little over my head. Back next year with a rope gun and new attitude with a different route in mind. Liberty cap will wait until some mileage passes beneith my butt.
  Bob

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2007, 02:11:00 am »
It's nice and cool now Munge. Time for Freak Show, eh??

you want to go?  my partner is psyched on Cal Domes now.
may be hard to get him back to the Kings

:)

this weekend I'm off to fulfill a promise to check out some crags in NV.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #6 on: September 28, 2007, 02:17:04 am »
  I tried to solo my first big rock in May. Took a 50 footer head first tethered to my haul bag on the approach. Scared me bad enough to sit and contemplate and let my fear run the decision process. Had to drop the bag to get out of the pinch and back the approach up about 3 or 4 hours. A little over my head. Back next year with a rope gun and new attitude with a different route in mind. Liberty cap will wait until some mileage passes beneith my butt.
  Bob

holy shit Bob, be careful out there. rope up for the approach if you carry the pig if you have to.

the climbing community needs a really good book on how to rope solo and rope solo big walls. big undertaking, but could really help out the learning curve for myself at least on solo big wall stuff I want to do.  but you're right on bob about the mileage.  time passes and we gain experience and insight.    kate, on the taco stand said something that I tend to agree with in principle 'don't use a cheater stick, because you just cheat yourself' or some such thing... 'because you learn how to get around those little problems so next time the little problems don't cause big problems' or maybe that's how I interpreted what she said. anyways, she's got lots of mileage, so i tend to listen to folks like that and ignore folks like me that post too much and climb too little. :)

Offline lambone

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #7 on: September 28, 2007, 04:30:37 pm »

the climbing community needs a really good book on how to rope solo and rope solo big walls. big undertaking, but could really help out the learning curve for myself at least on solo big wall stuff I want to do. 

fwiw- I don't think so. soloing walls should be a skill earned through experience, not just something you can read out of a book. I agree that tips and tricks gleaned off the net are good, but no book or internet post can really teach somebuddy how t solo a wall.

As far as the cheat stick thing goes, I couldn't agree more. My biggest regret of the walls I've done was using a stick on some of the earlier ones. It really is cheating yourself out of the full acomplishment.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2007, 12:07:33 am »
true, good point.  the way we learned over time under the wings of some climber that learned before they did.... 

no doubt... essential in a way to keep rescue costs down as we move into the new century keep climbing adventure filled.

Offline the_dude

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2007, 12:57:38 am »
Here's a chance to report back about all you did or didn't get done this summer.
Well, I got served the papers from the wife in the spring. So I got that done! 3 month hiatus from climbing after that to figure things out for myself. Super psyched again to get back down to the valley. Didn't tick any grade VI routes this year yet, but every grade V I did I managed to pull off casually in a day. So all in all I would call it a pretty successful year. definetly got more time on my hands now..
Cheers

Offline tomtom

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2007, 01:43:21 pm »
So what did you do?

Light year this year, as it's hard to find good partners:

Prodigal Sun @ Zion
University Wall @ Squamish
Green DragOn @ Index
Liberty Cap @ Yosemite

Bailed off a bunch of other stuff.

This year I decided that I hate soloing.  I can do it, but I get bored being alone.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2007, 11:29:13 pm »
Well, I got served the papers from the wife in the spring. So I got that done! 3 month hiatus from climbing after that to figure things out for myself. Super psyched again to get back down to the valley. Didn't tick any grade VI routes this year yet, but every grade V I did I managed to pull off casually in a day. So all in all I would call it a pretty successful year. definetly got more time on my hands now..
Cheers

been a rough year for a lot of folks it seems. 

among other bad news, long time family friend passed away this weekend. she was a character and I'm proud to say I knew her. Not having seen her in quite awhile, it was sad to hear about her passing. Friends and family take solace in the fact that she was doing what she loved when she passed, having a few drinks, relaxing in Mexico with family.

Offline xtrmecat

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #12 on: October 02, 2007, 12:03:46 pm »
holy shit Bob, be careful out there. rope up for the approach if you carry the pig if you have to.


  Mungee, I was on a rope or would no longer be here. It was the last few feet of open ledge just before the routes start. I also do almost all my climbing solo (roped). Soloist's do not lock head first so that makes for fifty exciting feet with only a couple feet out. Backup knots should never be ignored.  I also found me a healthy 20 something rope gun that hasn't had the desire to do a wall worked out of him yet. Will only cost me the expenses and doing the Grand later in the summer. Pretty good trade huh? Incidentaly, Kate is also a role model for me as she seems to type a lot(all good info) and climb even more.
  Bob

Offline Mr.

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #13 on: November 05, 2007, 10:31:27 am »
Here's an apple.

Electric Ladyland- Rough start to season. Anchor partially blew out. Probably did start to Afroman or other route. Moved to TDA.
Mescalito- From pitch 5 to top in a push through snowstorm. The runoff had us a bit... concerned... in spots.
Aquarian- Maybe climbing this thing in May was a bit early.
Never Never Land- In a push. Fun and moderate.
Spanish Castle Magic- Put up a beautiful 18 pitch line on _____ VI 5.9 A3+. You even get to visit "el cap tower" (not on el cap)!
Muir Wall- In a push. Some sweet cracks up there.
Aurora- Three of the best days of climbing I've ever had. Good weather. Good rock. Good partner.
Triple D- Several in a day attempts thwarted by bad weather.
ZM- Almost took the Big Whip.
E. Butt of El Cap to N. Butt of Middle Cathedral- What a great day of freeclimbing.
Zodiac- In a day.

What a great long summer it has been.  Keep sending wherever you're at. Peace Out.

-End of spray transmission-

Offline Mr.

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2007, 04:30:10 pm »


Where you want to be.

Offline lunchbox

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #15 on: November 06, 2007, 11:53:03 pm »
Hey..........I am there..........

or was there..........

damn photos..........stole a piece of me soul.... arrrhhhhh.....

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #16 on: November 07, 2007, 09:34:51 am »
Not much for me.  Did a second lap on WFLT in good style at the beginning of the season.  Spent a bunch of time getting xrays, MIR's, and other injections getting my defective wrists diagnosed (actually, still no diagnosis other than havingreally wierd DRU joints), failed badly on the Trip due to partner bailage.

I'm spending 2 weeks in Jtree for Xmas and New Years, so my wife might serve me papers when I get back.

Offline ice ravines

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #17 on: November 08, 2007, 03:52:16 am »
 Took the time to overcome personel obstacles...back at training with a vengence and then some.... Preparing for some climbs & jump starting a new life and a climbing style ! Rotator cuff surgery healing is over and  cranking up the guns for some walls is the main agenda .

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #18 on: November 09, 2007, 11:31:20 pm »
rawk on ice



i'm futzing with some backcountry possibilities in teh middle of bum fuck.


then working on a winter wall project.


trying to keep sane with work obligations working me over. 

skully

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #19 on: June 25, 2009, 09:13:11 pm »
Well?...It's Summer....GO do SomethinG?

Offline Caz

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #20 on: June 25, 2009, 09:31:00 pm »
Wow! bringing em back from the dead!!
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #21 on: June 25, 2009, 10:02:29 pm »
I AM the Re-Animator......RIse, And Walk!

Offline Caz

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #22 on: June 25, 2009, 11:02:57 pm »
I AM the Re-Animator......RIse, And Walk!

Well if your the Re Animator, I need you for that route... So get your ass to the ditch and lets do it! I'm tall so I'll take the reachy pitches.
I do this for fun...

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« Reply #23 on: June 25, 2009, 11:05:56 pm »
i think it was interesting that this site got really quite around April-ish.  Hopefully its because everyone is getting after it.

If you live the life of a Warrior (I dropped the weekend part because it sounds better) you get to climb and keep up to date on all the internet gossip. oh boy lucky me.  I am the puke Tom Evans writes the reports for!


at the end of summer I will report back to this thread.