Author Topic: Soloing Walls Forum- post here  (Read 19627 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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« on: January 14, 2006, 01:14:52 am »
Going to try using the Silent Partner. With lots of back up.

The Grigri (mod or not), seems to be really popular. I like the simplicity of it, but one locker?  (plus back up to tie in?).   Still have to deal with keeping your rope from backwards feeding?

Offline the_dude

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« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2006, 10:12:48 am »
I have only soloed like 5 pitches at a time. But the grigri method has worked well for me. I haven't ever had a problem with it backfeeding.

To me, the silent partner seems like it would be a bit bulky. Maybe a route with a fair amount of free climbing would make it a beneficial tool. I'd like to hear more about the thing from people that have used it. lets hear your input after using both.

Offline mungeclimber

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« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2006, 10:55:22 pm »
will do

Offline freakshow

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« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2006, 11:22:09 pm »
Went soloing with an unmodified grigri today.  I didn't have a problem with it backfeeding but I was a bit freaked using it...it just seemed to be flopping around a lot.  I can see the value of using it either with a chest harness or modifying it so that it can be aligned in a more vertical position (holes drilled into end and swaged cable added).

Offline mungeclimber

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« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2006, 12:02:40 am »
where to get the swaging done?

Offline freakshow

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« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2006, 12:43:13 am »
Quote from: mungeclimber
where to get the swaging done?


Find dude with a nicopress.  Accessory cord would probably work too since it just has to bear the weight of the grigri.

Offline fareastclimber

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« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2006, 08:16:31 am »
Not familiar with the modified grigri, but if the swage isn't load bearing you could just do it yourself with a pair of pliers, right?? With an unmodified, I find the flopping about as freakshow described to be easily minimised by using a DMM Belaymaster and putting abit of duct tape on the top right of the biner to stop it from sliding about.

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« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2006, 11:08:59 am »
fareastclimber,

ya you're right about the swage not load bearing.  I'm sure pliers would be fine.  I'm climbing again midweek and will try the duct tape thing.  

Have any of you folks ever used this system to keep the grigri in a vertical position?  A sling is worn over the shoulder and attached to the drilled swage/keeper sling to keep the grigri in a vertical position.

http://ulrichprinz.com/alpin/equipment/selfmade/#grigri

Offline salad

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« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2006, 12:43:03 pm »
I've used the silent partner for about 10 pitches (not all the same climb).  It was nice for freeclimbing, I used a newer 10.2 so the rope moved smoothly.

Was it clunky?  Yeah, but I havent soloed much, so the entire process seemed clunky.

Munge, I can mail  you my solo aid if you want to compare the likes of that.

Offline mungeclimber

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« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2006, 10:11:53 pm »
werd Sal, if you're not using it. thx!

I've got Feral's soloist. Not good directionally they say.

Zion trip?  Did you make it out there?

Offline salad

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« Reply #10 on: January 19, 2006, 01:06:19 pm »
no i havent made it yet.  no one will commit.  i have to work all next weekend, if i get a comp day, i might head out feb 16th, but the kid is due about 4 or five weeks from that date, so getting the green light might be iffy.

Offline mungeclimber

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« Reply #11 on: January 19, 2006, 09:12:38 pm »
I'm doing recon on that solo project I mentioned the last weekend in January if there is any decent weather at all. I'll get pics then.

Maybe rig up my ledge if Russ has it done and gets it to me before then. Fingers crossed.

Worse comes to worse, maybe I'll see if Feral will let me borrow his for the weekend.

Offline mungeclimber

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« Reply #12 on: April 04, 2006, 11:54:20 pm »
allow me to be the first to say, there has been no viable weather to speak of.

Russ, send my gear anyways please!!!

Offline syrinx

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« Reply #13 on: April 06, 2006, 10:51:11 am »
I use the silent partner. No worries, no modifications and smooth feeding. I don't like wearing anything to keep a belay device in a certin orientation. Just one more thing to f up, fail or cause more clusterfuck. Takes a bit of practice to use efficiently (esp. for free climbing) and older/larger ropes do not feed as well.

Syrinx
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Offline iron man

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« Reply #14 on: April 08, 2006, 05:06:15 am »
I wish the pin on the grigri was bigger.
I have been climbing for my whole life. I never really knew about rock climbing untill 5 years ago. I always climb trees. I had never even seen any cliffs untill 3 years ago I am 25 I started climbing in a gym.

Offline passthepitonspete

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« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2006, 10:37:08 am »
Uh, you can write "clusterfuck" on this forum, eh?  You guys have been edited so long it's preprogrammed or something.  

Fuck that, eh?
Dr. Piton says, "There is always a Better Way!"

Offline mungeclimber

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« Reply #16 on: April 09, 2006, 12:11:10 am »
I'm not going to edit particular words with a filter.


Maybe in a year we'll get bored and decided that the use of the phrase "A1" is played out and we should replace it with A4, but not yet.   heheh

Offline xtrmecat

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« Reply #17 on: April 09, 2006, 04:53:16 pm »
I am currently using a soloist and carry my emergency prussik over my shoulder sling style and use that to clip the top of the soloist to keep it upright. Even then it isn't good for an upside down fall. Want to know if the same is good enough for a grigri as I am getting on bigger and bigger stuff now and I am looking for the best in self belay.
  I am not a noob to solo but am really new to my grigri and only two years of aid. I'm not even sure what mods are done to a grigri to make it better. Just have trouble not crossloading the attachment at the harness sometimes and even with a backup clove it just doesn't seem to feel all warm and fuzzy as most of my big falls have been on aid.
  Anyone want to set me straight with the ultimate solo belay?
   Thanks and happy climbing,
  Bob

Offline fareastclimber

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« Reply #18 on: April 09, 2006, 07:44:36 pm »
How efficient do you find the prussik method back-up on your Soloist? I would think that it wouldn't lock off in a fall as it would jam up against the free-end hole and release the tension? I've been testing out this method:

http://static.flickr.com/54/118250851_69f47aa80b.jpg?v=0

Wondering what people's opinions are on this? It seems to work well, although if you are the kind that prefers to stack the free end on a routes natural features (i.e. ledges) instead of carrying it in a bag on your back then it will undoubtedly cause alot of snaggage. The carabiner basically stops the slip knot from pulling through incase of a fall.[/url]

Offline Rags

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« Reply #19 on: April 09, 2006, 08:54:18 pm »
Prussik? Sheeeeit!

Haven't used the soloist, but that sounds like an intersting scenario.

Prussik jams belay device,
Belay device jams down on prussik,
Both prussik and device run down rope,
stopping at backup, prussik and device weld to rope,
or thru.....?

No man I wouldn't do the prussik.

Actually I like the gri in combination with a chest harness. Run the rope up
through biner. Rights you in fall, the rope weight keeps the gri pointed in the right direction, But that's just me. I still prefer simplicity, like a clove hitch.
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Offline mungeclimber

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« Reply #20 on: April 09, 2006, 10:53:32 pm »
soling on a gri needs clarification, maybe i'll hit the st forum for posts. I remember one fairly lucid explanation.

Offline xtrmecat

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« Reply #21 on: April 10, 2006, 03:18:21 pm »
Please reread my first sentence! I do not prussik back up. I carry an emergency prussik cord slung around my neck to keep the soloist upright. Kind of a double use piece of gear. I only back up with a clove on a large locker at my belay loop. Kind of a cluster but 100% effective.

Offline syrinx

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« Reply #22 on: April 11, 2006, 01:52:26 pm »
"The Soloist must be used with a chest harness because it will not lock when inverted."

Direct quote from Wren. I would stop using your prussick sling as a chest harness, or modify it into a chest harness.

Syrinx
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Offline buffalohorn

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« Reply #23 on: May 08, 2006, 11:33:06 am »
I have loads of success with my modified gri-gri( done myself with a drill and some cord), clipped in to my A5 double gear sling to keep it upright. If you have any worries about rigging the gri-gri properly, be safe and solo with a clove hitch and locking biner!! Old School is the way I learned before fooling with the more modern devices. Besides knowing more than one way is invaluable!!!

Offline caribouman

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« Reply #24 on: September 07, 2006, 01:15:38 pm »
Hey, I just re-read all these posts.  No one mentions the Solo-Aid.  Has anyone used one, and if so, what did you think?  Also, can anyone direct me to a book that illustrates the clove-hitch method?  I've always clipped off short to a bight, which has a pretty high cluster factor...
when the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.

Offline syrinx

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« Reply #25 on: September 09, 2006, 12:05:50 am »
I have borrowed my friends solo aid several years ago. I only used it for a few pitches. It was nice enough, but needs to be hand fed. For strictly aid climbing I found this not to matter very much. I chose the silent partner because of al the other options I have with it. I really like it for setting up solo toprope climbs where I can just listen to music and run laps up and down for as long as I like.

S
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Offline caribouman

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« Reply #26 on: September 09, 2006, 09:33:27 pm »
hey there Syrinx,
thanks for the reply.  I hadn't thought of your other use for the SP.  Something to consider.
  Cheers, Caribouman
when the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.

Offline syrinx

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« Reply #27 on: September 10, 2006, 01:30:50 pm »
I also use it for belaying partners on slow ass aid climbs (why buy a gri-gri?)


S
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Offline caribouman

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« Reply #28 on: September 10, 2006, 09:42:54 pm »
Ah rats!  I just found (& bought) an unused SoloAid cheap.  So I'll try it.. but the SP is sounding really good.  I can always retire the S-Aid to high work...
Cm
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Offline routehogger

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« Reply #29 on: September 27, 2006, 10:19:13 am »
Quote from: caribouman
Ah rats!  I just found (& bought) an unused SoloAid cheap.  So I'll try it.. but the SP is sounding really good.  I can always retire the S-Aid to high work...
Cm


Let me know how it goes. I found a Wren Ind. importer in Norway and will order one shortly...
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