Author Topic: Racking for efficiency  (Read 7898 times)

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Offline KevinW

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #30 on: May 01, 2009, 05:03:17 pm »
I have the Yates wall rack as well, a lot of what you put where will become personal preference the more you use it, but there have been a lot of good points made here.

A few things I've found work.. or not,

-I try to rack with the intent of (at least initially) being evenly weighted side-to-side
-My general rule is front/shortest to back/longest, I find it makes moving around easier with less CF'age
-BD Positrons - awesome for racking wires, not only do they sit nicely but there's no notch for them to get hung up on
-Spare biners in chains of 6 or 8, if I'm eating them up really fast, I'll clip a chain at a time on one of the little (sub rack) front loops as needed.
-Lockers for the anchor at the back out of the way till I need I them
-Tag line (7mm) at the very back center loop (out of the way), when I need it I just grab a loop of it bringing it around and clove-hitch to something in front of me
-Pitons, iron is heavy and I  usually try to avoid climbing with it and tag it up as needed, if it's just a pin here and there I'll leave them on a fifi at the last pin I drove, instead of tagging it up/down/back up.
-It baffles me how badly some things manage to weave themselves through wire gates, for this reason I don't normally carry any, (still a standard oval kinda guy).
-I find hooks and heads notorious for creating CF's, I tried carrying hooks on front sub racks, but have found I prefer bagging them, same with heads which don't even have to get tangled, just brushing up against something is usually enough to start a nice CF.

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #31 on: May 01, 2009, 07:23:24 pm »
I'll climb with my forecast gear, if I can see the pitch, or have beta. If climbing with a partner, tagging is pretty sweet, like if ya pull a bulge, &can RE forecast to the belay(just a for instance).
Hooks in a bag is a sweet idea that Circlehead showed me, way back. I like that one.
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Offline JC5123

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #32 on: October 07, 2011, 01:41:21 pm »
Bump.

I am hearing a lot about neutrinos. While I like the idea of smaller, lighter biners. I have resisted the change for 2 major reasons. First is cost. I already have mass biners. Mostly ovals and D's and have my racking system pretty wired. (20 years, no need to confuse myself now) The second is that I use mini biners all over the place for water bottles, snack bag and other non-safety related tasks where a full strength biner would be major overkill. I would be worried about confusing a neutrino with one of these mini's and that would be bad.

I'm sure I'm just being paranoid.

Also, I like having large biners, since (especially at belays) so much crap gets clipped off to so few anchor points. It's nice to have lots of room in a biner.
I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!

Offline Mike.

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #33 on: October 07, 2011, 06:52:28 pm »
Saving money: legit.

You'd get used to them right away. If you think they're small, compare to some featherweight offerings by CAMP et al.

Put some larger biners on the rack where you know you'll need em; modern wiregates where you won't. I've run the old Ds and ovals like most of us have--they're just a less refined tool for the various jobs biners do. But they work fine. Buy some nice tequila and call it a day?

You free climb with the old HW? There's some added value for the upgrade if you do it.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline JC5123

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #34 on: October 11, 2011, 09:24:55 am »
Saving money: legit.

You'd get used to them right away. If you think they're small, compare to some featherweight offerings by CAMP et al.

Put some larger biners on the rack where you know you'll need em; modern wiregates where you won't. I've run the old Ds and ovals like most of us have--they're just a less refined tool for the various jobs biners do. But they work fine. Buy some nice tequila and call it a day?

You free climb with the old HW? There's some added value for the upgrade if you do it.


HW?
I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #35 on: October 11, 2011, 11:07:25 am »
HW=Hardware I presume
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Offline JC5123

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #36 on: October 11, 2011, 11:16:25 am »
Ah, Duh. Yes I do still free climb with older hardware. Mostly because I haven't had reason to replace much of it. Frequent inspections, and replacement of stuff that I don't trust anymore. But otherwise I'm still using some gear that is approaching a decade old.

Not to say I'm not open to new ideas and new equipment, just prefer evolution over revolution.
I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #37 on: October 11, 2011, 02:55:32 pm »
I know for me I came into the game late enough and with an industry discount so it's all wires for me. On a big wall rack the savings really add up.

Also, from a pure safety standpoint wires have some benefits. Better in ice/snow as well as less likely to get gate lash and be open during loading.

Use that to pitch the 'biner replacement initiative to your CFO/wife. "It's a safety issue dear".

Report back if that actually works. 
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
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Offline JC5123

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #38 on: October 11, 2011, 04:14:50 pm »
Well, I don't have a wife, so that isn't a concern. And my girlfriend is a climber/kayaker as well.

 I firmly believe in your assessment of wires. I love the things. Especially for ice and alpine. Much lighter, and I don't ever have to worry about gate lash. 
I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!

Offline Mike.

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #39 on: October 11, 2011, 04:43:05 pm »
I guess it depends what one wants to spend his money on. The price of new crabs might be an extra wall's worth of lost wages. Or more.

Funny though, the sticker shock completely vanishes when in the thick of things. Modern gear not only works better, it makes one feel better.

Gear approaching a decade old? Yikes! (Haha...)
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline JC5123

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #40 on: October 12, 2011, 07:43:15 am »
Not really as bad as it sounds. I have a set of stoppers that has probably been replaced 3 times. I bought the set 15 years ago. Over the years from getting them stuck and leaving them for rappels and such, I have replaced all but a couple of them 2-3 times over.

My hexes, I just replace the cord every couple years. Things like that.
I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!

Offline Mike.

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #41 on: October 12, 2011, 09:36:27 am »
Hexes? Holy shiz, man, you bringin up a B.A.T. tent too?

J/K!
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline JC5123

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Re: Racking for efficiency
« Reply #42 on: October 12, 2011, 11:29:11 am »
LOL, a B.A.T. tent! You over estimate my gear!!! ;)

I remember my first couple walls using army gear duffels that we bolted straps to and duct taped the hell out of. Once I could afford the right gear it almost seemed like cheating. Of course our first few walls we found ourselves in WAY over our heads more often than not.

Used a North Face/ A5 double sling for years. Lovin my Yates these days.


I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!