Author Topic: Resetting drilled angles in sandstone for upward pull  (Read 1592 times)

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Offline johnmac

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Resetting drilled angles in sandstone for upward pull
« on: March 08, 2008, 09:01:46 pm »
I'm curious to know what people think regarding resetting anchors on sandstone routes such as in zion for an upward pull.

For example, the first real pitch on spaceshot, you have two drilled angles. What I've done here is to set the rope for an upward pull using a screamer and then tied the rope also off to the first couple of bolts as well, since the start is a bolt ladder. I know that many people believe that drilled angles, if placed correctly, are stronger than bolts in sandstone.

If I have a heavy bag I could incorporate it into the anchor but on routes like that I find it better to go lighter.

Anyhow, I'd appreciate to find out what others do in similar situations or am I just being paranoid!

Here's a pic as an example:

« Last Edit: March 08, 2008, 09:05:02 pm by johnmac »

Offline Rags

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Re: Resetting drilled angles in sandstone for upward pull
« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2008, 01:09:48 pm »
JM, safety is what makes you feel secure. If your worried about the anchor, your not focused on climbing. That might be unsafe.

If you feel better, do it.My one question has to do with tying off to additional bolts. If your already using a screamer at the anchor, how are you securing to the extra bolts to allow enough slack that the screamer will deploy properly? You need a big bight or long sling to do it.

Depends on the rock also. Three makes me happy, but some sandstone is pretty friable, some is bullet hard. Of course, I wouldn't give you a dime for any of them after a rainstorm.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2008, 01:13:43 pm by Rags »
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Rick

Offline deuce4

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Re: Resetting drilled angles in sandstone for upward pull
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2008, 03:48:15 pm »
If what I am seeing is correct, in that you have the rope tied in directly to the baby angles, then this is very unsafe!!

The angles will cut the rope under moderate shock loads, I woud say at 1000 lbs or less, which you can easily achieve in a short fall.  Use biners!

The baby angles should be fine for upward pull (WITH A BINER!)

cheers
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Offline Rags

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Re: Resetting drilled angles in sandstone for upward pull
« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2008, 03:54:31 pm »
If what I am seeing is correct, in that you have the rope tied in directly to the baby angles, then this is very unsafe!!

The angles will cut the rope under moderate shock loads, I woud say at 1000 lbs or less, which you can easily achieve in a short fall.  Use biners!

The baby angles should be fine for upward pull (WITH A BINER!)

cheers

Saw that also. I assumed it was just a sample rig. Doesn't look like the left angle is even attached to the rope. Of course, if that isn't the rope, but slingage instead, still better to use biners.

P.S. In the original post, I hope resetting the angels didn't mean pulling them and orienting them in some other fashion. That would surely ruin the placements.

and Cheers to you Duece.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline johnmac

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Re: Resetting drilled angles in sandstone for upward pull
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2008, 07:06:27 pm »
Just to clarify things, that's not my setup. this is what it looks prior to setting up the anchor.  The rope and slings are for people rapping..., you see this set up all over zion these days.

Resetting is the term I use when I reset the anchor from downward pull for jugging to upward pull for leading. The last thing I'm going to do is hit an angle with a hammer!

My main question was just how good are drilled angles in sandstone when set up for an upward pull compared to bolts.

Thanks for the feedback.

Cheers

John M.

« Last Edit: March 09, 2008, 08:46:22 pm by johnmac »