Author Topic: King Swing  (Read 4042 times)

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Offline Shoobert

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King Swing
« on: March 27, 2008, 12:40:08 pm »
Hey guys,
this year i will start my first big wall to Nose. But how should i do the hauling on King Swing? I guess the best would be not to haul on Boot Flake, but to pull the bag per Lowering Out Line to Eagle Ledge. Or its better to haul direktly from Boot Flake to Belay No.19?
How did you solve this Hauling Crux?
Thx for every statement
Shoobert

Offline Mike.

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2008, 01:56:37 pm »
One way is to use a dedicated let-out line on the haul bag. It should be about 60' long x 8mm.

Another way is to tie your bag in short and use the leftover haul line as a let-out line.

There are other strategies for this route/section also, but the two above will work.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline lambone

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2008, 01:33:44 pm »
Here is how we did it.

Leader does the swing, backcleans to 19. 2nd atop the Boot short-ties the haulbag in, and threads the slack end of the hauline through the quicklink on the ancor,  and lowers the bag across. This puts the bag about 60ft below p19.

Leader hauls, then fixes the slack in the haul line to the anchor. 2nd raps the hauline, ends up down by eagle ledge. Come off the hauline, then leader pulls it through.

Quick and easy.

Offline Mike.

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #3 on: March 31, 2008, 12:41:55 pm »
Quick and easy, definitely.


Just don't blow it like the guy who did recently. Two badly broken legs and nearly bled to death. That part of EC is a slab with ledges.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline lambone

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #4 on: March 31, 2008, 03:03:33 pm »
I think that guy was leading above Eagle, belayed from eagle below and was running it out.

It's pretty easy backcleaning, I just ran 3 peices at once.

Offline Shoobert

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2008, 07:55:40 am »
Backcleaning upto P19, thats a too quick way to go. ^^
I would prefer to belay at 17. So whats the usual way doing this haul?

Offline Rags

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2008, 12:40:19 am »
Since I haven't climbed the Nose yet (feeling left out here), wondering if somebody can clarify this a bit.

It's not about technique. It's about pitch numbers. I looked at my old Reid guide and my supertopo. In both books, the top of the boot is P17 or P16, respectively.

P19 is half-way to camp IV. Now I know Ya'll are talking about the top of the boot to the adjacent belay just above Eagle ledge, but what gives with the pitch numbers?

It was a little confusing when I first started reading this thread, but I love this shit anyway.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline Mike.

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2008, 12:57:03 pm »
"In both books, the top of the boot is P17 or P16, respectively."

Now that's confusing. = )


ST first edit has the top of Boot being 17. I don't have my Reid guide here, so I'm just basically confused. I do not excel at math.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline lambone

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2008, 06:03:57 pm »
I belive the belays down in the Stovelegs changed around fairly recently, and that is why the pitch #s are different in each book.

Bigwalls edition I is different then edition II.

I don't have it in front of me so I can't say for sure whats what.

Offline Mike.

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2008, 08:06:24 pm »
Thanks for the insight, lam.


Number 'em however, that is one fine chunk of stone. The most notorious rock climb in the world. How'z it feel to be a drive away from that? It's good to be in out west. Rags, I hope you brave the crowds and get that thing done. You too, Shoobert. I think a little offseason would yield disproportionately there.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Rags

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2008, 10:33:01 pm »
It's all good, just curious. I have Soopertopo I.
I'd like to know what changed around the Stove legs, somebody move a belay?.

Ya, I'm gonna do the bastard one day. I was actually contemplating the Triple Direct,
But with all the talk about the King Swing I may have to do it :) Sounds like a ton of fun.
« Last Edit: April 02, 2008, 10:35:30 pm by Rags »
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline lambone

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Re: King Swing
« Reply #11 on: April 03, 2008, 07:59:05 pm »
Tripple Direct was my EC first wall, the Nose was my 9th. I liked it much better then TD (even though TD was just fun cause it was my first).

The Stovelegs, The King Swing, El Cap Tower, Texas Flake...all are badd ass features that can't be found on TD.

Personally I think the TD offers only the worst part of the Nose which are the somewhat awkward upper corners.


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Re: King Swing
« Reply #12 on: August 08, 2009, 11:02:23 pm »
Yeah, Lambone has a valid point about the TD.
You miss all the real defining points of each route.
But, it IS on El Cap. That makes it worthy, in my eyes. A route on the Big Stone, Yeah!
That's what it's all about.