Author Topic: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners  (Read 11552 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #30 on: May 09, 2008, 06:38:20 pm »
so far nothing is pegged for me yet.  some peeps trying to reach still.

others timing may be key to get into town.

are you climbing with Spyork by any chance? 

Offline offset

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #31 on: May 09, 2008, 09:50:15 pm »
nope, climbing w/ an old climbing buddy from seattle.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #32 on: May 13, 2008, 03:43:28 pm »
got the speakers

got 6 Saporo gold reserves


might not have enough

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #33 on: May 14, 2008, 12:10:34 am »
ok gents.  I'm now officially fixated on The Prow as my solo objective. I have an alternative of Bulging Puke via a variant.

If partners coalesce, then LF, Nose or Zod.

mindset

Offline offset

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #34 on: May 14, 2008, 02:42:25 am »
good luck d00d!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #35 on: May 14, 2008, 02:39:46 pm »
gracias, fortunately it's supposed to cool down next week. probably hump water in the evenings and fix in the evenings.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #36 on: May 15, 2008, 10:48:25 pm »
crap it's hot outside.


ghetto fabbing the rig for the trip


gear is strewn about haphazardly in the garage

beer is starting to be drunk

edit silly statement, tho ti nutz were well appreciated.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2008, 12:25:03 am by mungeclimber »

Offline offset

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #37 on: May 16, 2008, 04:58:04 pm »
peace out bros.... hoppin in the car soon! 

to the WALLLLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!1

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #38 on: May 21, 2008, 03:00:03 pm »
3 loads in 24hrs
1 fixed pitch
3 different parties
1 walk of shame

Offline Raaf

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #39 on: May 21, 2008, 09:49:49 pm »
Hey Munge,
Much commiserating. . . .  what was the part about "3 different parties?" In front of you?

Supposed to be weather this weekend, which means that groups will be gathering for their start. . .  and it'll be a bit backed up in the Valley. Time to focus on less popular routes, I say.

I'm getting on the road this Saturday morning.

More detail when you get a chance, Munge.

Offline Rags

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #40 on: May 22, 2008, 01:39:26 pm »
So yur not in the valley? Looks like I may have revised my plan also. I'm still putting gear together, just haven't had the cash or time. Fucking school is just all consuming.

But, all is not lost. Going down right after mem-day to get some practice in.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #41 on: May 22, 2008, 03:25:28 pm »
Rags, bring the aid gear to Sonora, we'll sit in the rain and drink beers and climb aid climbs if we have to.



P-man,

it went down like this...

3 loads with no one on the wall. no one.
saw mike couple times. he's heading up to do Mid East Crisis solo.
get my second load at the base of the climb and return that afternoon (90 degree temps the day before and the day I humped) to find the team of 3 Spaniards? on top of pitch 1. no big, I'll pace them I think, and just follow along. what's a little golden showers in the morning between wall climbers I think. they end up fixing to anchorage. they used some pins too, which I thought was a little odd.  So I fix pitch 1 and rap as Team Espana comes down.

turns out they don't bivi at the base. I think they'll be back early since it's toasty hot. they'll want to haul in the early a.m. wrong.

late that night up comes 2 parties of 2.  some guys from the shop, and Dane and Able.  I know I'm slow, so I start cogitating that I'm going to have let people get in front, so i try to get first team of 2 to run up my lines. They hang out deciding and end up bailing later that evening.  Dane and Able run up JoJo and fix at JoJo anchors.  They are going to blast in the early a.m. and go to the top quick like in one push.  At this point I am thinking how bad the cluster will be if I run up the next pitch tomorrow while Team Spain tries to haul over the top of pitch two (that move right before going up).  Have I mentioned I have had trouble with Euros before? German fellow almost pushed me off Snake Dike after I tried to clip into the same anchor we were on.  At least my Spanish is not horrible.

Anyways, I figure Spain is going to haul 2 long pitches and Dan and Able will take up the early hours of the morning. So I decide there are too many people going to be above me to allow me to blast that day and meet my objectives I had planned given the very slow pace I completed pitch 1 at.  Started at 6 or so, and rapped after dark.  Wind was basically out of my sails with that and not sleeping most of the night at the bivi and the humped 3 loads in the heat the previous day.   So the next morning as I'm staring upwards, I don't hear any activity except mosquitos buzzing. I go up to see what's up with Dane and Able.  They are bailing. Able's sister was in an accident. They are out, but I've lost my psyche.  I think, what the hell, let me clean my pitch and then see what's going on. I get up there and start thinking about the timing of the Spaniards. I've wasted time in the morning and team Spain will be coming up just as I'm moving onto pitch 2.  My perceived window of time has closed for what I felt was it.  I'm done for (in my head). I've lost the battle. Too much thinking about clusters and not enough time focused on movement one piece at a time. 

For my first solo attempt on a Wall I guess it's expected to fail, but there was no weather and no injury. Post hoc reasoning is all bullshit. So now I really appreciate having a partner even more, and want to get some Grade V out of the way even more than when I started.

Don't go down. The only way down is up. 

I'm really looking forward to hearing about Mike.'s top out. If that thing turns out good for him, I may try and copy his lead on that.  Trouble is timing now for vacation days.







Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #42 on: May 22, 2008, 03:29:04 pm »
and for what it's worth, I really wasn't having fun humping loads and fixing by myself.  It was work. Goal oriented work, except for after chatting with Mike. who raised my spirits with the good positive talk and practicing my spanish with team Espana.

fricking social cravings for laughter are fuking up my program.

Offline Rags

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #43 on: May 23, 2008, 12:19:35 am »
Damn brain barrier...
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline xtrmecat

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #44 on: June 04, 2008, 02:50:14 pm »
  Damn it all Munge. I had the previous week all wrapped up in a bad partner, bailed after 4 pitches in 4 days, and left a note on the camp 4 bulletin board and word at the bridge that I was indeed looking for you and ready to send. I was going to leave the new guy alone in camp 4 for a week to let him learn the ropes by himself. Too bad the word did not get to you. Could have been fun, definately easier than humping loads by yourself. Also could have been diferent dealing with the Spanish speakers as I do not speak it and can play dumb pretty good, especially when up a pitch higher.
  Bob

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #45 on: June 04, 2008, 03:57:25 pm »
heh, no worries, in the long run it was good for me. It sucks ass. but it was good for me.

What's up in September? 

Offline Mike.

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #46 on: June 04, 2008, 04:31:37 pm »
I'm really looking forward to hearing about Mike.'s top out. If that thing turns out good for him, I may try and copy his lead on that.  Trouble is timing now for vacation days.

Ho-man, bro, it was good. One of the better Column routes I've done so far. It's like a toned-down, widened up Electric Ladyland (read: natural).

All the bad news:

1) Rotten rock on P9 with poor (stepped slab) landings.

2) A3 finish on East Face. Rotten, bottoming fissure with rusted-cable fixed heads and potentially bad landing. Bring med-lg Peckers. Someone should open up the original finish, even if that means trundling loose blocks on a rainy day on rap. The EF aid finish is markedly harder than anything on MC. I've done it twice now, and it is heads up. I pulled my last two cams at the very end and fell onto a good cam. A couple placements below that is the part a person doesn't wanna fall off of.

14 pin placements for me. I'll post my topo/notes notes soon.

I would easily call MC the best route of its difficulty on the Column of the 9 routes I've done on it. Makes the South Face and the Prow seem lame.


Good to see ya up there, munge. Don't sweat the bail, man. Take it from an expert ; } just makes the next top-out sweeter.
« Last Edit: June 04, 2008, 04:34:47 pm by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline salad

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #47 on: July 01, 2008, 05:15:19 pm »
Hehe...Don't let Ammon hear ya say that...next thing ya know you'll be ropin' up for a sufferfest--!


Munge, why not solo the Cap? If you can do a 5, you can do the Cap. Cracko's gonna be there, I'm pretty sure, doing that. Kia just busted out his first EC route solo last year. I'm sure there will be others there pumping up your psyche...the ElCapPics show at the bridge, helpful monkeys all around doin' the tribal dance...I'll be there late this month thru ??. You send that big thing and I'll sport you a victory twelver for gettin me and everybody psyched. You can do it if you just decide to...persistence and attitude pay huge dividends. OOOHHHHHH-AHHHHHHRRRRGGGG! Psyche up humping loads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

haha mike.  that almost got me psyched up enough to change my plans!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #48 on: September 24, 2009, 01:23:33 am »
Lambone,

Here it is.  Not much there.  Just the basics.

some pics here...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mungeclimber/sets/72157605298693061/

LF is definitely a better TR.


Offline lambone

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #49 on: September 27, 2009, 12:04:27 am »
dude sounds like a cluster!

man try it in the off season, November or March. If you get stormed on hard it's a pretty straightforward bail from Tapir.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #50 on: September 27, 2009, 05:04:58 pm »
aye, might do that if December is a nor cal affair rather than SouthWest.


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Re: In the Valley May 17th - 25th - checking for partners
« Reply #51 on: September 27, 2009, 06:40:38 pm »
Dec or Jan(with a maybe Feb), Munge.....Keep those in mind. I figure I can wrangle a couple weeks out then.....Maybe I'll see ya?
Plans'll firm up later. Let me know!!!!!!

WooHoo!!!