Author Topic: Rope of choice?  (Read 3276 times)

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Offline offset

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Rope of choice?
« on: April 30, 2008, 10:02:11 am »
what the rope of choice for you guys.  i keep buying cheap ropes since i seem to go thru them fast, but (duh) i'm thinking that is sort of an infinite loop. 

what is some burley cord?




Offline lunchbox

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2008, 12:01:11 pm »
I've had great success with a Yeats 10.3 speed wall rope.  They made an 11mm big wall rope but don't carry it anymore.  These are both made by Bluewater. 

I also have a Mammut Supersafe that is holding up just as well as the Yeats ropes. 

The other rope I highly recommend for big wallin' is the Edelweiss Sharp.

Both the SuperSafe and the Sharp have passed the UIAA sharp edge test.

These three ropes are the burliest of the burl. 

   

Offline tomtom

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2008, 12:11:24 pm »
I'll second the Yates Speed Wall ropes.  I've a pair ahd they've lasted a lot of abuse.

http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/wallropes/index.htm

Offline Mr.

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2008, 12:48:47 pm »
Aid Walls:
1st pick: Yates Speed Wall 10.3mm 65m (65m length is perfect)
2nd pick: Edelweiss Sharp 10.5  mm 70m (heavier ropes jug way better, suuuper burlz)

Freeclimbing:
1st pick: Edelweiss Laser 9.6mm 70m (lightweight but still burlz, works well w/ grigri, great rope solo rope)

Static:
1st pick: Edelweiss Speleo 9mm (lightwieight, good for el cap aid climbs IAD, great for long freeclimbs where the descent involves many raps into the unknown, not best choice when hauling super heavy loads)

Offline lambone

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2008, 06:41:42 pm »
I have the Yates rope now, I think mine is the "Big Wall" not the "Speed Wall." Burly sucker.

I have also used a Mammut Supersafe and I liked that one a lot. A lot lighter then the Yates, I think it's only 10mil, but pretty durable.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2008, 08:36:49 pm »
mammut supersafe. A good combination of weight and durability.

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2008, 09:57:30 am »
The Supersafe clocks in at 10.2mm officially.  It sure seems burlier than the current generation of 10mm ropes, all of which seem pretty thin these days. 
It's funny, I have a hard time seeing the difference between some 9.8mm ropes and some 10mm ropes.   Maybe it has more to do with marketing. 
After all "Light is right", right Twight?  he he!!

I think its a good idea to check grams per meter when comparing ropes of different diameter.  It gives you a better idea of how much material is used in construction and in relation to sheath tension.  Sheath tension plays a big part in determining the final listed diameter of a rope.  Ropes with a "soft hand" in my experience have a lighter sheath tension and feel a little bouncy (static elongation) when you first start juggin'. 

Obviously the engineering is a lot more complicated than that, but gives you a starting point. 

Offline Chad

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2008, 03:44:37 pm »
I prefer the Mammut Supersafe 10.2 mm. The reason it is supposed to be more resistant is that its core fibers are all treated, so they don't abrade each other. The Sterling Marathon ropes are also very good and are supposed to have an extra strong sheath, or at least more material in the sheath, which couldn't hurt for jugging. Probably both approaches are somewhat valid.

As far as the sharp-edge certification goes:

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/uiaasharptest/

http://www.theuiaa.org
(harder to find info, but you can download .pdfs about rope safety standards)

Offline Rags

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2008, 07:21:33 pm »
I'll tell you what, many moons ago, E.C. Joe told me Sterling ropes were the best ropes money could buy. Who was I to argue?

So I've been using them ever since, and I love my Sterlings.

I will add, I was a bit depleted financially some time back and bought an Edelweiss 9.9. Not the greatest for a wall

but it's been one great rope. I've climbed on the Edelweiss Stratos 10.5 and it is one burly rope. If I needed a rope, it would be that or another Sterling.

Anyone know who makes Yates ropes? Probably New England, but I'm guessing.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2008, 07:59:58 pm »
Blue Water makes the Yeats lines. 

If you buy from Bluewater it's the 10.3 SlimLine Elite, but the colors are different.   

Offline Rags

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2008, 01:19:45 am »
Blue Water makes the Yeats lines. 

If you buy from Bluewater it's the 10.3 SlimLine Elite, but the colors are different.   

Uhhg, I don't like Bluewater ropes. Everyone I've ever used has been a twisted nightmare.
I don't know what they make for Yates, but I'd need to be desperate to buy a BW.

Thanx for the info
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline hammock-soloer

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Re: Rope of choice?
« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2008, 06:14:58 am »
Yea blue water makes yates ropes. I didn't know that the slimline elite was the same construction though. I think I remember reading somthing like the yates rope has a larger number of strands in the sheath. I use the Blue water accelerator 10.5mm. I don't get to use it much though. Last time I got to take some lead falls on free face 5.11sport It was fun 15'.
My rope is softer than it used to be. And handles like a charm.