Author Topic: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML  (Read 3073 times)

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Offline GoMZ

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Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« on: May 05, 2008, 05:59:53 pm »
Does any one know the relative condition of the rivets on ether of these route?

Thanks in advance, Steve

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2008, 11:42:14 pm »
I don't know about the lower part of WEML, but once the two come together (pitch 13 or 14) the rivets or dowels are pretty bomber for upward progress.  However, it takes the thinnest hanger you can find to fit solidly into the mushroomed grove that forms the head of the placement. 

These things are solid and definitely not falling out of the rock, but they are not your standard 1/4" button head or 5/16" machine head type rivet.  And despite their abundance I loved the climbing on this section of the route. 

And the roof pitches!  Very splitter and more than worth the effort to get there.

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« Last Edit: May 06, 2008, 09:52:31 am by lunchbox »

Offline Mike.

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2008, 11:56:41 pm »
A couple of years ago a serial renegade chopped some of the rivets on WEML. Not sure if all that vandalism has been fixed.

I think it foolish to get on a route like that without means to replace a rivet or bolt. Many poor lead bolts exist.

Repeating lunch: Many #2 cable rivet hanger placements, one or more #1 cable.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline GoMZ

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2008, 08:25:03 am »
Thanks for the replies,

I'm just trying to get a general idea of the condition of these routes. I definitely will be prepared to replace if necessary.


Much Appreciated,
Steve

Offline Mr.

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2008, 10:29:33 am »
Lunchbox and I agree that if Harding had placed low grade steel rivets instead of aluminum ones, the ladders would be in much worse condition. I didn't lead this block but I don't remember and of them looking especially bad when cleaning. The thin hangers come in handy because some rivets have junk wire fixed on them.

This route gets bad press because of the bolted sections. I dont think that the upper sections of this route make it "worth it" because the whole thing is excellent.

The top of pitch 21 is a great place to be.

Offline Craig Peer

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2008, 04:17:15 pm »
Those rivets were a fun lead. I think I used # 1 stoppers cinched on them. Works pretty good.

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2008, 11:03:42 pm »
Does anyone know the history of those rivet's?  Who made them and such. 

I've never come across anything like it.  They look like a piece of steel dowel driven in a shallow hole and mushroomed over to keep the hanger on. 
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. 

Nanook?

Offline Mike.

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2008, 09:52:00 am »
I'm pretty sure they're aluminum or an alloy of it, which is why there is zero rust on them.

I don't think of them as being bomber at all: They're pretty short rivets I'm pretty sure, and as such really depend on the rock quality (we know the rock isn't forever). Plus the insecure way rivet hangers sit on their minimal flange. When I did it in the late 90s, the occasional bolts in the ladders looked awful--I hope those have been replaced.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Mr.

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2008, 12:42:20 pm »
We did the route in '05 or '06 and there were no missing/broken off rivets. I think all of Beyer's work affected the lower sections of WOEML, not above where ND intersects the route. Go for it!

Offline GoMZ

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2008, 02:25:51 pm »
Thank you everyone for the information. That is exactly what I was looking for, some relative info/opinions. It's nice to post on a climbing forum and get real information.

Much appreciated,
Steve

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2009, 07:22:17 pm »
Gomz,

did you get WOEML done in 08?  I ferget if that was one of your back to back walls?

also, you get my email?  having issues with my hosting company. sent it a couple days ago.

M

Offline GoMZ

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2009, 12:05:18 pm »
New Dawn is still on the list:)

Got your emails Munge but need your address still.


Offline passthepitonspete

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Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2009, 08:32:26 pm »
The top part of WOEML is fine.  If you're climbing New Dawn to WOEML, you're good. 

My understanding is that the vandalism was committed on the bottom part of the route.  I would very much like to climb this route, and if anyone can fill me in on what needs to be fixed, I would be happy to do it.

My understanding is the first pitch lead bolts have been chopped.  When Hans Florine and partner [Flyin' Bryan?] climbed the route in a push, Hansy free soloed the first pitch.  It might be possible to reach the top of the first pitch by penji'ing in from the left side of the Alcove near the start of Space.  This would be a way to replace the bolts on the first pitch.

Ascents subsequent to the chopping by Jim Beyer [what the hell was he thinking?  What an idiot] had to make crazy penjis onto routes like Reticent and Mescalito to avoid the chopped sections.  There is a bit of information on McTopo.  Perhaps Ammon and Steve Schneider have also been up to look?  Not sure. 

Anyway, if anyone knows for sure, I would be willing to go up and climb the thing, and fix the chopped stuff.

Cheers,
Pete
Dr. Piton says, "There is always a Better Way!"