Author Topic: Shattered dreams in the valley.  (Read 6067 times)

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Offline syrinx

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« on: April 11, 2006, 02:02:44 pm »
Well, I just got back from what what to be a week long trip to climb leaning tower and others. Why am I back after only 3 days in the valley? Because I broke something. What might I have broken? OE to the first correct guess. Ok, no OE but I will confirm your correctness! Full TR to follow once I have more time.

Syrinx
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Contest: Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2006, 05:12:32 pm »
Quote from: syrinx
Well, I just got back from what what to be a week long trip to climb leaning tower and others. Why am I back after only 3 days in the valley? Because I broke something. What might I have broken? OE to the first correct guess. Ok, no OE but I will confirm your correctness! Full TR to follow once I have more time.

Syrinx



there can be only one answer with all this rain

'heart'

Offline syrinx

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2006, 10:07:39 am »
Nope, that's a little high. Now off to the Doc's...

Syrinx
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline syrinx

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2006, 04:26:48 pm »
Here is a big hint. Tell me where this is.

Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline mungeclimber

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #4 on: April 13, 2006, 12:27:49 am »
that my friend is a cankle.

Offline mungeclimber

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2006, 12:28:24 am »
where is the promised trip report?

Offline syrinx

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #6 on: April 13, 2006, 02:27:52 pm »
Well, here is the full trip report.

It started with a plan to do some walls in the valley over spring break. I have done several walls and my friend Jeff had never done one. We setteled on Leaning Tower and watched time crawl by until break was upon us. We drove to the valley on Saturday, April 8, arriving there by noon. After stashing our extra food in the Curry boxes we were off to the Bridalveil parking lot.

For the approach Jeff took the rack/ropes and I took the pig. The hike in was wet and there were several times during the second half of the approach that we had to post-hole through snow.



After arriving at the base, Jeff was worked so after dinner he went straight to bed, while I stayed up and watched the stars. Several times that night I was woken up by a ring tailed cat attempting to steal some bagles.



I was up at dawn the next moring anxious to get going. Jeff took the first lead, and it was obvious that he needed more practice before doing a wall.



 As the morning went on the skys turned from clear to overcast, solwly getting darker and darker. So the hard decision was made to turn around. Retreating fromthe top of P1 was not too bad. I had to swing a lot but ended up making it into the ledge without a problem. After reversing the 4th class section we headed down the talus.

A few hundred feet below the "good bivi for 4" site I was walking accross a boulder when the pig got off balence. I tried to grab a branch for support but that did not help. My right foot slipped, but my left boot stuck. As I fell down my left leg twisted under me and I heard a horrible cracking sound. OH SHIT! I knew my left leg/ankel was hurt. I quickly laced up my left boot as tight as I could, and took 4 IB's from the first aid kit. The time was around 2:00pm on Sunday April 9.

We left the pig where it lay and dectided to see how far I could get. I was limited to crawling on my hands and knees or shuffeling around on my butt.



The way down took a long time. Every time I bumped my left leg it put me in an exceeding amoun of pain. I did my best to avoid bumping it, but it was sometimes unavoidable.



It was a daunting task to crawl out over huge, moss covered, wet talus blocks. I found that making jokes made the trip go fasted and kept my mind centered. It must have seemed like a silly situation. A freash cripple draging himself towards the parking lot by his fingernails joking about how all the crab walking will do wonders for my mantles. To get more of an idea of the ordeal...

...check out this video.



After crossing the log, it was one more short hill and then a flat section to the parking lot. I got some really crazy looks as I crawled out of the woods in obvious pain and covered in dirt with a bunch of climbing gear on. Once in the car Jeff drove to Oakhurst.

The medical clinic there was closed so we continued on to Fresno and ended up at the University Health Center or something like that. Then the waiting began. After checking into the hospital a bit after 6:00, my leg was not examined by a doctor until after 11:00pm. I was finally discharged just after midnight. Here is a crappy scan of my x-ray.



I brok the Fibula in my left leg, just above my ankel. The break was due to the severe twisting motion the bone was subjected to. We spent the night in Fresno, and in the morning headed back into the Valley so Jeff could recover our abandoned gear.

The closer we moved to yosemite the worse the weather looked. It started to rain, then show and then rain again as we dropped to the valley floor. Jeff was not happy about having to hike in the rain to get the same bag that I had the accident with. So we stopped by the mountain shop and recruited come help. Nick to the rescue!!! Nick and Jeff hiked up to get the bags, and I caught a ride to the lodge and hung out with Aaron for the day. Everyone was happy when Nick and Jeff arrived safely.



That called for a round a drinks (mmmmnnnnnn drinks and vicodin.)



We sat aound drinking, telling stories and laughing as dusk approached. Nick decided he would get the next round, but had an unconvential way of doing so.




Ahhhh, the classic Cobra!!!





As darkness set in, Jeff and I drove home to deal with the aftermath. That was Monday night, April 10. It's been a slow week of stumbling around on crutches and doctors appointments. I'm not looking forward to going back to work next week.

I have my Ortho appointment tomorrow and will know more then. So far I have heard that I should have a cast for about 6 weeks after which my bone will be back at 100%, but we'll see about that. Hopefull this will not destroy my palns to head back to Peru this summer.

Well, there you hvae it. I broke my leg and had to crawl out ala Jos Simpson in Touching the Void. Ironically a movie that I had just watched 4 days before leaving on the trip.

Syrinx
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline mungeclimber

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2006, 09:37:52 pm »
"We have to get out of here!"

hahahaha, classic vid snippet.

heal fast and thx for the TR

Offline meclimber

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2006, 04:07:29 am »
good job making the best of it.  Good TR

Offline syrinx

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2006, 08:59:46 pm »
Woo, hoo I can walk on my removable air cast now without crutches!!! Life has gotten much better not that I can carry my food and laundry from one room to another. Another 2-4 weeks of the air cast and then 2 months with some kind of ankle/lower leg brace. Hopefully I climb again by Aug. Plus I have been moving my left ankel (w/ the Dr's OK) while my cast is off and I have regained 80% of my flexibility. Cheers-

Syrinx
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline fareastclimber

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2006, 05:24:15 am »
Nice! Sounds like a super speedy recovery. Do you drink lots of milk or something? Haha.

Offline syrinx

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #11 on: May 19, 2006, 06:24:47 pm »
Henceforth I walk sans boot! This is better than I expected a few posts ago.

Syrinx
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline syrinx

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #12 on: June 01, 2006, 10:32:51 am »
Here is another pic from P1, from a different trip, but one that I found captures the essence of the tower.

Syrinx

Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline the_dude

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #13 on: June 01, 2006, 02:11:43 pm »
nice pic! gotta love the instant exposure on the beginning of that route. Keep up the speedy recovery

Offline Teth

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Shattered dreams in the valley.
« Reply #14 on: July 17, 2006, 09:17:02 am »
I broke my arm once in a freak dinoing accident. Ok, maybe freak is not the right word. When jumping eight feet laterally to a hold 14 feet off the deck I should probably have expected to brake something, even if I did have a stack of four bouldering pads under me. The worst is that this Cape Breton dude taped over the recording of my accident in order to record himself sticking the same dino while I was on my way to the hospital! I later publicly apologized to the gym owner for breaking so many rules (and bones) in his gym. Anyway, that put me out of climbing for five whole days! It was great for my dynamic movement. I started putting up one handed routes at the gym, which earned me the nickname ?Evil Teth? because I made sure that my problems were not any easier for people with two hands. I had this nice one coming out of a cave which required a chin hook at the lip.

I twisted my ankle once in a breakdancing contest I ran across during a pub crawl. I actually went climbing the next day, but the trip to the gym was truly epic. It was winter, I was taking the bus, and the bus stops were not necessarily as close to were I was going as I would have liked. I also did not have a proper crutch and was using a stick with a cross-piece duct-taped in place. When I got to the gym I had to crawl to the wall and could only climb overhanging problems were I would fall on my back rather than my foot. The day ended with two old ladies watching in astonishment as I crawled past them down the long hall from the elevator to my apartment.

Broken bones heal quick! It is the tendon damage that takes six month to a year to heal. My arm diner forked just before the wrist, which did not hurt as I recall, but I think they pulled some tendons resetting the bone. I remember as they were drugging me I was pleadings with them to be carful of my tendons...oh well. My ankle was just a bad tendon pull (I think, I never went to the hospital to find out), but it was four days before I could walk on it even a little and it still gives me problems years later. The worst thing about a cast is your atrophied lim seems so delicate when you first get the cast cut off. I do not recall it taking too long to get the muscle back. It is the range of movement that your really have to work at. I am guessing that you are good to climb by now. So was it just bone, or did you do any tenon damage too?

Teth
I don?t trust fear, it lies to me!

Offline syrinx

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« Reply #15 on: September 05, 2006, 07:01:23 pm »
Teth-  I had no tendon damage, and was told not to climb until late Aug. My range of movement came back quickly as I was allowed to take my cast off while home and do range of movement exercises. This allowed me to have 90% of my flexability back before I removed my boot for good.

S
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline Teth

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« Reply #16 on: September 19, 2006, 10:48:41 am »
Good to hear it was only bone. Bone heals nice and strong. They probably told me not to climb while recuperating too, but I am a bone head. My wrist still hurts when I rotate it fully. I should have shown up for those physiol therapy appointments, particularly since medicare was paying for them.

Rereading my last post I have to wonder, with all the climbing I have done outdoors, why do all my epics involve the gym? Well I have stopped going to the gym now so maybe I will stop injuring myself.

Teth
I don?t trust fear, it lies to me!