Author Topic: Old timer, coming back...  (Read 2347 times)

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Offline Kiron Kid

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Old timer, coming back...
« on: October 19, 2008, 09:32:57 pm »
Hello fellow climbers.

   After a long layoff, I'm getting back into it. What wall harness do you recommend? It appears that my old one has "shrank" with  time. I sincerely doubt that years of dark beer and lethargy have anything to do with the fit...  Anybody still using the old style yellow Jumars? What do you think of the new BD ascenders? They look interesting. Any new aid gear that I should be aware of?

Thanks. This forum is awesome.
Kiron Kid

Offline Mike.

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2008, 02:12:30 pm »
Big question(s), KK. I'll hit some surface issues...

What wall harness do you recommend?
Metolius Waldo. Be sure it's not an older one which doesn't have drop-able rear risers. the BD Big Gun looks promising, but no in-the-trenches info. Yates' Shield is popular, but doesn't work for me with my short torso.

Anybody still using the old style yellow Jumars?
They're not the de facto standard anymore, but they work fine. I still have mine and use them sometimes.

What do you think of the new BD ascenders?
Some report that they're great. On the ground I couldn't figure out how they work.

Any new aid gear that I should be aware of?
Med-Large Peckers eliminate almost all KBs from the rack.
Haulers suck less now. Wallhaulers are not worth using for a full-size haul. Pro-Traxions are better, but have issues. Kong's Block Roll is pretty cool, available domestically thru MountainWorks in SLC, UT (US distrib)
There's a lot more to be said here...


Welcome back!

Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Kiron Kid

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2008, 02:19:53 pm »
Big question(s), KK. I'll hit some surface issues...

What wall harness do you recommend?
Metolius Waldo. Be sure it's not an older one which doesn't have drop-able rear risers. the BD Big Gun looks promising, but no in-the-trenches info. Yates' Shield is popular, but doesn't work for me with my short torso.

Anybody still using the old style yellow Jumars?
They're not the de facto standard anymore, but they work fine. I still have mine and use them sometimes.

What do you think of the new BD ascenders?
Some report that they're great. On the ground I couldn't figure out how they work.

Any new aid gear that I should be aware of?
Med-Large Peckers eliminate almost all KBs from the rack.
Haulers suck less now. Wallhaulers are not worth using for a full-size haul. Pro-Traxions are better, but have issues. Kong's Block Roll is pretty cool, available domestically thru MountainWorks in SLC, UT (US distrib)
There's a lot more to be said here...


Welcome back!




Mike

    Thanks for the reply. I remember a "Rock Exotica" pulley called the Wallhauler, but I don't see them around anymore. What became of them?  I handled the BD Ascenders, and they appear to be well thought out and made. I'll look into them further. How about the Yates ascender, any good? Peckers? Must be a new thing on the scene. I'll look into them.

Thanks again.
Kiron Kid

Offline Mike.

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2008, 03:27:03 pm »
R. Exotica: I think after they started manufacturing Petzl's Spirit biners they eventually were absorbed in some capacity by Petzl. I imagine it was a good deal for Rock. Wren Industries took over distributorship of the Soloist and Solo Aid. The original cmpany did great work, but the Wallhauler was just too whimpy for full-on wall use (as some of us found out the hard way).

Haven't heard of anyone using the Yates ascender, but I think their products are pretty well executed for the most part.

Peckers: Big beaks; nice design w/clip-in hole and spurs for easier cleaning. Must-have for thin nailing, good also for hand-placing like a hook.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline offset

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2008, 03:49:49 pm »
recommended new gear:  adjustable daisies!!!!!

i use the yellow 'deathjuggers' - they were on sale a while back.  my partner makes fun of me, but they work.

harness:  the yates with the dual front buckles is HARD to snug up and works itself loose.  the yates with the sling you thread thru all the parts is a pain to put on but i great harness.  i also handled the new black diamond 'big-un' in the mountain shop this weekend.  looked bitchin!!!!  but lacked one of my favorite features of the yates:  the dedicated aider loop.


Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2008, 10:39:50 pm »
ditto on the Waldo harness.  comfy but well designed ergo shape.  drop seat is mandatory, I'm going to email Metolius right now and see if they can retro fit me.


Offline Raaf

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2008, 11:07:20 pm »
Very cool. I can relate to the "comeback" mentality, and I hope you have success.

Depending on your time off (and guessing from the yellow jumars question), a couple of items that may be new:

1) leeper cam hooks----look for message threads on these. They are a must.
2) alien offsets----some aspects in dispute, but otherwise they are some of the best cams available for Yosemite aid (a safety recall dampened enthusiasm, but that was resolved and I think they are bomber)


Offline johnmac

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2008, 12:56:36 pm »
Welcome back.

I did the same thing ... dropped out for about 10 years and having a blast the second time around...

Ascenders: I tried the BD ascender but found that they weren't a good fit for my hands. If you have large bear paws they will probably work well, but if you have smaller hands then they just too damn big. The other thing is that I found that I the bottom of my small finger would sometimes get pinched a little in the join.  The yellow jumars are fine until you want to replace them with something a little bit more comfortable.

Harness: I brought the BD wall harness at while back and I'm very happy with it. I'm in the process of writing a rewiew on over on mp.com and I'll post it up there when I've got it done.

Wall hauler: I use the petzl protraxion. Never had a problem with it. Just got to make sure you attach it with a short sling so it can move about freely and doens't get twised. I don't do massive loads.

DMM Offsets and TCU Offsets are great, especially in places like Zion.

Cheers

John

Offline lambone

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2008, 02:31:00 pm »
Harnesses,
The Metolius Waldo is really comfy but also pretty heavy for any sort of free climbing. I bought the Big Gun and liked it, but the foam is stiffer and my hips got kinda sore.

Jugs
I didn't like the release mechanism on the BD jugs. It's tricky to operate and I could see it being annoying trying to pass your upper jug over pieces quickly. Stick with the Pretzls


skully

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2009, 10:37:57 pm »
How's that Kiron Kid?
Still goin'?
I recommend it, FWIW.
Yarrrrr.

Offline Kiron Kid

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2009, 11:56:08 pm »
How's that Kiron Kid?
Still goin'?
I recommend it, FWIW.
Yarrrrr.

Skully

    Thanks. Yeah, were slated to arrive in the Valley in late September. Going to jump on Zodiac, Tangerine Trip or Mescalito. Whichever one is available. Picked up a "Shield" harness. Going to haul in the old traditional style like we did on ? Dome, Sentinel and the Column (Pulley- two aiders). Supposedly, the new Petzls will be available anytime now.  Any advice or beta is always welcome.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Kiron Kid

Offline Caz

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #11 on: May 22, 2009, 12:24:35 am »
Kid, welcome back and have a blast up there.

If your Shield only has one belay loop and you want a second you can contact Yates and the will be able to hook you up with another one, if you want it. I think it keeps the cluster down, but other people may not agree.

As far as hauling devices goes, I'd go with the Kong Block Roll. It makes hauling a lot nicer.

As Mike. said, the BD peckers are priceless. Also as mentioned before cam hooks, DMM offset nuts, and hybrid aliens are a big help in the valley.

Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline KevinW

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #12 on: May 22, 2009, 12:18:19 pm »
Welcome back Kiron!,
 I went though the same thing after breaking my back in 4 places.

What wall harness do you recommend?
I have to admit here, that the only one I've tried, and continue to use is the Yates Big Wall. The harness is probably the most important piece of gear for me
with the back issues and my Yates being so comfortable, I really hav no reason to look elsewhere, in fact I wear it all year round, ice climbing, etc.

Anybody still using the old style yellow Jumars?
I have the old grey Jumars, the yellows, and a pair of Pretzls. I prefer the Yellow Jumars by far (which are no longer made).

What do you think of the new BD ascenders?
I think that there is way to many moving parts, too many things to wear out, break, and leave you hanging.. *hopefully*


Any new aid gear that I should be aware of?
Be aware of and beware of, but new aid gear could be another loooong thread by itself. Most of the new gear that has really intrigued me has appeared and
been discussed on this and other climbing forums, being specialty gear produced in small quantities like the Tomahawks, or the re-produced (repro- Deuced)
A5 Hammer.

As for haulers, I'm pro.. Pro-Traxions myself.

The best thing to do is... exactly what you're doing, just keep asking your specific questions here, this is a great forum, by far the most friendly with a lot of
people who are more then willing to offer their advice, opinions, etc.

skully

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Re: Old timer, coming back...
« Reply #13 on: May 24, 2009, 08:03:49 pm »
Howdy KironKid!!!
I'm plannin'(hope it works!) to be there in Sept, too.
Hope I'll see you there.........cheers!