Author Topic: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh  (Read 3733 times)

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Offline Mike.

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Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« on: October 31, 2008, 10:15:34 am »
Okay, friends, I guess we can pretty much kiss off the "season" now. Pull out the puffy stuff, the GTX and gaiters, while the population drains out of the Valley and elsewhere. Call up those couple of doods you know who love the dark and the cold. Before they call you...

Winter is where it's at! No takin' numbers on the trades, no circus in full effect, no media scrutiny, just you and a couple other 'core rats out soaking it up. Tricking yourself once again that this is fun. Because it is. When you're done...?

So, what's the plan, Stan? Are you going "home" for Christmas, ya sell-out? Or you gonna represent the endorphin-addled sociopaths and go big on something? What's on your mind, dog? Tell me yer not packing the wall rack away for winter. You can still get your tele turns and ice picking in. What IS the plan?

If you say "Zodiac" I'm gonna grill you for lack of imagination. Though that would be a nice outing if you haven't done it.

My Christmas wish list...one campin-style EC route plus a couple pacifiers and cobweb sweepers. Any order, any of the usual suspect partners (you know who you are).

Jack it up!












Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2008, 10:53:22 am »
ya gotta have vision!  nice Mike.!

I'm thinking a good weather window and the South Face.  Nothing heinous. 

then again, I have a date with the Bpuke, but that 5.8 face pitch has to be dry nuff.

i talk too much, and climb too little.   ugh. 

back to Pinns aid routes on bad weather days most likely.





Offline Mike.

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #2 on: October 31, 2008, 11:59:55 am »
Ah, South Face. Nice warm spot. One of the few places you can find traffic all year long. That's where an iffy forecast can work in your favor.

I went up to WC once thinking I was gonna be all tough and solo something. Holymoly the wind was just scary as hell, I thought trees were gonna snap off. Dark clouds rolling through at top speed. Not one person there. Especially after I ran away...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline lambone

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2008, 02:12:35 pm »
I'd like to do something on the steep side, Shortest Straw, L.I.A., Native Son...wall style. And push a moderate EC route. Can't get psyched on the smaller walls at the moment...the Captain calls.

Offline offset

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2008, 02:24:15 pm »
gotta wait till spring to get back to yos...

BUT....

index upper town walls...  the pnw backyard walls.


Offline lambone

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2008, 03:07:49 pm »
index is cool, I miss it!

Offline Mike.

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2008, 03:37:04 pm »
That Index wall looks steep. I wouldn't mind falling off that.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline offset

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2008, 04:33:18 pm »
as a matter of fact, i fell from above that picture to bellow that picture....shortly after taking that picture...

Offline Mike.

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2008, 09:00:53 am »
Haha, thinking like me, offset?


BTW

Forget getting fat every winter. Keep your summer edge all year...

Many climbing venues, esp here in CA, are perceived to have "shut down for the season" but actually have good weather and far fewer people. Keep cragging, yo. Hell, we even like hiking. You think a 6-hour hike up to elevation doesn't help big wall stamina? Go to the gym if you have to, but I've found that pacifying your outdoor jones with plastic time can endanger soft tissue. I'd balance time on the grips with the cardio machines, etc. if your gym has them. Ski (alpine, tele, XC), snowboard, snowshoe, hike, ice climb, bike, scramble, rock climb...hit it hard. The more intensely you hit that stuff, the less hard the walls seem when you get there. You guys already know all this, tho. I'm jus tryin to jack it up. Hey, it's all FUN!



Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2008, 10:56:55 pm »
6miles on the mtb today. it's a start.

Offline marde

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2008, 04:43:56 am »
talkin about something like that?


« Last Edit: November 03, 2008, 04:45:58 am by marde »

Offline offset

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2008, 09:14:38 am »
i shopped for some x-country skis, and bought some new daisies...     i call that training...

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #12 on: November 03, 2008, 12:09:14 pm »
Ah winter in the PNW... 

After scaring the shit out of myself in Yosemite I've discovered that I really wasn't as scared as I thought I was and I want to go back and I don't mind the sight of my haulbag and aiders aren't the worst thign in the world so I think I'm months ahead of schedule.

Winter to do list:
Get wet and tell myself I'll never do this again at Index, then do it again weeks later.
Ski. Lots. No I mean lots. Well lots for me at least.
Train 2-3 times a week. Actually train as in work on things that need work like getting the weight down.
Run stairs. I hate running and I'd actually rather run stairs than flat.
Do the God-forsaken Columbia Tower stair cllimb next spring. 69 floors as fast as you want to go. Try to crack 12:30. We'll see.
Climb something harder (for me) at Smith; Magic Light 10c would be nice
Dunk a basketball again. Obviously not climbing related but if that's going well good climbing usually follows.
Prep for spring goals:
Squamish Walls
Green Drag-on and Town Crier in a day
Maybe Zion or a return to Yosemite...
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline Mike.

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #13 on: November 03, 2008, 01:15:54 pm »
Hey, Baltoro, What came of your MC effort? Is that the "scary" trip you mention? We love stories, man. Doesn't matter if it's glory or reverse hump. Spill it, baby. We've all been there.

Cheers.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #14 on: November 03, 2008, 06:51:31 pm »
TR added in the TR section.
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2008, 08:36:22 pm »
...
Prep for spring goals:
Squamish Walls
Green Drag-on and Town Crier in a day
Maybe Zion or a return to Yosemite...

If you're looking for a partner for Squamish walls fire me an email - I'm based in Vancouver, BC and always looking for wall partners

dclendenan{AT}gmail[DOT]com

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #16 on: November 05, 2008, 03:52:56 pm »
Will do Dave. I've shockingly yet to climb in Squamish even though I'm this close.
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #17 on: November 06, 2008, 08:40:59 am »
Shocking!

If you want to psyche yourself up for Squamish Aiding, here's the guidebook:
http://mattmaddaloni.com/Home folders/Squamish%20Big%20Walls%20guide.htm

The routes over in the Sheriff's Badge would probably be the best for wet weather.

Lots of great long free routes, too, but they kinda need to be dry, which could take a while  :)

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #18 on: November 09, 2008, 11:49:01 pm »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #19 on: November 09, 2008, 11:55:05 pm »

Offline Mike.

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #20 on: November 10, 2008, 11:44:15 am »
Hey, what's your coldest lead?




I cheated, this ain't winter. It was the first week of last December. Brisk temps and wind from hell.





Good stuff, mungie.

« Last Edit: November 10, 2008, 11:46:02 am by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #21 on: November 11, 2008, 12:18:38 am »
That first pic is right before it dumped. I'm cleaning first pitch on the Puke. 

The second is the Portadredge, a watery barge that moves slow but it's solid.

either Sept 2002 or April 2006, can't make heads or tails from the time stamps on the files.


trying to dry out the next morning...


Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« Reply #22 on: November 11, 2008, 12:22:43 am »
what's crazy is I know some dudes that were up in the shit that came in last Saturday night.
now that's the real deal.