Author Topic: IdiOdyssey, Zion  (Read 1536 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline BriGuy

  • Gumby
  • *
  • Posts: 19
    • View Profile
IdiOdyssey, Zion
« on: December 05, 2008, 10:09:19 am »
So, I emailed my friend John some info. about few routes routes I was interested in for a trip to Zion. John had never been to Zion before, and I had ventured a couple of times the past year. He replied, "Cool, I don't have time now to look at any routes. Just pick whatever you think looks like fun (not a chossy nightmare) and I'll do it."

"Ok, word".......allllllriiiiiigghhht!!!

IdiOdyssey shares the first 2 1/2 pitches with Swoop Gimp and then goes left taking the most obvious crack system to the top. It's quality rock for the most part and a great adventure. This wall is the next major wall right of Moonlight Buttress.  I ended up nailing only 5 pins total (3 at the top of P5 and 2 starting the crack on P8). If I did it again, I would only bring a very small selection of pins for hand placing, no hammer. Mabey someone has already done it clean?


Anyone  know who this guy is? It looked like a giant an with a bee ass that somewhat resembled a beetle. I'm goin' for "Bantle".

The route. Swoop Gimp goes right.

Here we go.........

John flows effortlessly up the 5.7 on P1 like a true master. The first few hundred feet go up such aesthetic rock......lovin' those streaks!

P2, beautiful, long, sustained thin nutting.

Gettin' up there!

A keen eye will spot a soloist on Desert Shield.

P2, one of the few cams I got in on the was a good one.

Getting into the wide section on P2.

P3. This is John's first aid lead on Zion rock. "Wait, I'm leading this pitch? "Yep, here, take all these little nuts and get your ass up there!" He cruised it.............just like P1...........just like P1.

Please don't fall.

Getting dark......nice job bro!

This is how I roll. Someone should teach me how to make a hanging stove. Any way you do it, a fresh cup of Yerba Matte can't be beat! (Big Wall Tip: though somewhat ghetto, a shoe provides excellent stability for a small fuel canister)     :-)

That long right facing corner is dubbed "The Fragile Sea". It was my favorite pitch.

Pulling the roof on P4.

Looking at the first half of "The Fragile Sea", pitch 5. It checked in at about 190'. The upper section of the pitch was spectacular (not in photo) ------similar climbing to P2 but slightly more tricky.

Starting the long battle..........I clipped the anchor 3 1/2 hours later.

John confirms, "it looks good bro", "arrrghhh.....go get er!" P7

Yee Haw!

John cranks P7.

Yikes! What's in that dark hole? John was afraid of being eaten by this thing so he chose the left variation.

I like the contrast in the rock in this photo.

Cleaning P7...............literally.

Didn't expect to find a place like this up there!


Afro Ledge traverse, P8.


John gets after it cleaning P8. Upward blows son!

Funk! See the dust?

This was the best ass shot we had. I think it works well with the blinding sun.

John leads the way on P9.

Cool varnish.

P10, last pitch, yes soft.

Trash we picked up on route.

John's turn to carry the piggy. Utopo!

Parting shot......

Thanks for viewing! It's a fantastic route and the first wall John and I climbed together.

Brian S.

Offline Mike.

  • Bigwall Shaman
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 911
    • View Profile
Re: IdiOdyssey, Zion
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2008, 11:02:54 am »

What an adventure. Inspiring, man--you are on a roll, Bri. Woot!
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.