Author Topic: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid  (Read 2375 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« on: January 13, 2009, 12:28:50 am »

Offline johnmac

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2009, 11:55:28 am »
Yeah, its great that someone would go to the effort to demonstrate lowering out. The quality is improved too!

if a picture is worth a 1000 words then this video must be worth a million!


Offline lambone

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2009, 03:51:06 pm »
I never thought it was that difficult of a skill to pick up...

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2009, 05:38:15 pm »
Lambone,

Neither did I, till I partnered up with someone who didn't know.  In fact, I found out as they were following the Tangerine Trip 4th pitch roof.  Dude should have died from the BS he pulled, and he shutdown on the communications during the whole fiasco too.  Best part?  He picked the route!  I think it was his 6th or 7th wall failure (zero successes last I heard).

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2009, 10:16:15 am »
i dont think its that its all that difficult but it is a bit confusing at first.  Its kind of like a logic puzzle.  Makes perfect sense after you have seen it and done it a time or two. 

Thats a good video though, pretty cool.  How about "how to nail A4" instructional next?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2009, 12:24:49 am »
hear that! hoi!

first I gotta figure out A0 though. hah

Offline caribouman

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2009, 03:09:50 pm »
Is there any reason why people don't put a rap ring on the lower out sling?  Just seems kind of sketchy to run nylon across nylon.
when the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2009, 10:02:26 pm »
Hey thanks guys. Glad you like the video.

Yeah, it's easy to say that lots of things on the big stone are easy but we were all beginners once. I learn something
everytime I'm up there. for sure.

I shot some footage for some other videos, like cleaning, hauling ect. What are you interested in seeing?

best
e

Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2009, 04:39:20 am »
Help me out with this please. I don't fully get the role of the Grigri in this video.
To be more precise: is the Grigri used for the jugging as whole (being a backup for the 2 ascenders) or only for making the  lowering out easier?
(I never used a backup for the 2 ascenders 'system' )
 
@nanook : I'd love to see more of such videos

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2009, 11:05:37 am »
Hi Paul,
 
Generally climbers agree that when you are jugging a free rope that is not clipped through any pieces then you do not need to back up your jugs. When cleaning, where it is common to take one ascender off to 'pass a piece', most people agree that tying into the rope short or using something like a grigri is a good idea. Many folks have had an ascender or two come off the rope when cleaning traversing pitches, though I don't want to make that sound too common. Just it happens occasionally enough that tying in short or using a back up is desireable/expected (especially when you consider a traversing fall caused by a lower-out piece pulling could load your jugs pretty grimly).

Per using the Grigri as in the video, most of us have found it to be the best back up system when jugging because it allows you to easily pull yourself tight instead of having to tie a back up knot, undo a previous knot, ect. When it comes to lowering out the grigri really shines. Before lowering out you need to tie in short and use the slack below your tie in for the lower out. With the grigri you just pull it tight and feed the tail right through the sling as shown in the video.

Does that answer your question?

cheers
e
 
« Last Edit: January 18, 2009, 11:12:57 am by nanook »

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2009, 11:16:34 am »
Hi Caribouman,

 Good question. And when you're using some ratty tat to lower off because your partner didn't switch out the sling and now it's trapped by the quickdraw and the remaining opening isn't big enough to fit a new tie off through you'll probably be wishin there was a ring on that baby. Unfortunately most lower out slings wear out due to Sun exposure rather than rope wear(so the ring wouldn't make that much difference); you lower out relatively slowly because of all the friction the doubled rope creates.

e
« Last Edit: January 18, 2009, 12:23:27 pm by nanook »

Offline johnmac

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2009, 11:32:25 am »
Erik,

More vids would be great...

One on hauling would be great. Particular heavy loads when soloing. I only solo in Zion so my loads are pretty light but I would like to solo el cap one day when I have time.

Thanks.

John

Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2009, 11:53:26 am »
@nanook:
My question is perfectly answered, thanks a lot. This is pretty much what I thought, but never used so far. I am well aware of the phenomena of ascenders coming off the rope while traversing or following on roofs. So far I have never had such a problem.
I always tie into the rope nevertheless. But I will consider this method of using a grigri as a backup next time.

Thanks and if you happen to have more videos available, let us know.

Paul 

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2009, 12:17:56 pm »
Thanks Paul,

I know it can be hard to switch from good old tying into the rope to using something like the grigri(always stay tied into the end of the rope of course:).

Sometimes it helps me to remember that Dan Osman did most of his monster jumps(and tons of other folks in the valley did the same jumps with him) relying on a
grigri to catch him! For me that makes taking both jugs off the rope at the lower out point a lot less scary.

e

Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Lower Out Vid instructional - Erik's vid
« Reply #14 on: February 06, 2009, 09:25:40 am »
Never used Grigri before, but now I have bought one for soloing, so using it as a backup.
I've just started climbing again after a 8 year pause. In the last couple of months I was gathering info, remembered techniques I used, dusted my gear, bought some new toys, and already did some solo aiding on local crags, but no multi pitch route so far since restarting. It's winter here, one of my latest session was in -10 Celsius, pretty alpine :-) Here we have only 30-40m crags, to do anything longer I need to travel to the Alps or the Carpathias, which is not an option for me this winter.
It is good to see the different systems and solutions people use, there is a lot to learn for me from anyone.
Also it is much fun to relearn my old things and getting better every time I'm out at the crag.