Author Topic: Double gear slings  (Read 3550 times)

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Offline Paulhauser

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Double gear slings
« on: February 01, 2009, 07:37:39 am »
This is a newbie question, sorry about that.

I have never used any double gear slings apart from the one I made myself about 9 years ago.

I just started to climb again with all of the usual "fears" of this. Fear of fall, fear of gear failing, you know it (or not :-) )
Ever since I got to know Todd Skinners' death by a failing harness tie-in loop (later determined to be well beyond the state of 'have to replace the harness' I am thinking about using chest harness as a back-up.
I know, I know. My past harnesses never failed me, thats obvious since I'm sitting here and typing this. But then... ( I have to play safe, I have kids... can not act like a maniac anymore :-) )

And also never used chest harness before.

So I'm thinking about getting a double gear sling which is rated as a full strength chest harness. So far I only found Yates's model that would do.

My question is that any other maker does any product that is a d.g.s and a full strength chest harness?
Any links, reviews, thoughts welcome.

I'm ok with buying from US.

(it is a pity that our local currency is in such a bad shape now, buying anything from the States is about 35% more expensive than it was 6 months ago)

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2009, 08:33:24 am »
I'm not sure I'd really want to think of a chest harness as a real backup for belay loop failure.  Consider getting a wall harness with double belay loops that nest.  Some of the Yates harnesses now come with double belay loops, as does the Black Diamond Big Gun (not sure it's quite up to big walling, but I like the double belay loops, and it's darn comfy for fatso trad climbing).  You could also probably get one sewn on aftermarket by the same sort of folks who will resling cams, but I've never tried.  The moral of the Todd Skinner story is to retire your damn gear before it gets seriously scary.

As for chest harnesses, Yates makes one cadillac model, and one bare bones that are rated as 10kN chest harnesses:
http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/wall/index.htm#1

Mountain tools makes one too:
http://mtntools.com/cat/bigwall/ledges/mt_maxrack.htm

Lastly, Pika makes one, though I've yet to see either one in the wild, or a positive review for anything but some of their iron goods:
http://www.pikamtn.com/4harnesses.html

That is all I know of that is presently being sold.  I love my Fish double gear sling, but it is not setup as a chest harness.
« Last Edit: February 01, 2009, 08:35:17 am by Garbonzo »

Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2009, 09:54:35 am »
Thanks.

The key point for me is to have both worlds integrated,that is, safety and the advantages of the dgs.
I'n not 'over secure' about these things and a lot of normal procedures can be done to have a more secure feel. (like I girth hitch the daisies through the same way as the main tie-in loop goes - sorry, my limited english is not enough to describe, but it connects together the legloop power point and the waist main point)

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2009, 11:30:04 am »
Looks like Misty Mountain also makes one.  I also have not seen any of these in the wild, but at least Misty Mountain has an excellent reputation, so I'm sure it's at least of good quality:

http://www.mistymountain.com/bigwallsling.htm

Offline offset

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2009, 12:26:33 pm »
i've got that misty mountain and so do a several of my friends  and partners.  (they were on sale here a while back).  i've used it for several years now and have a few wall with it.  i (and i think they also) are rather pleased with it.  i'd recommend it.


Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2009, 04:58:57 am »
Thanks.

Anyone have first hand experience with the Yates double gear slings?

Offline xtrmecat

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2009, 10:30:38 am »
  Yes, I have the Yates double, and love it. My experience is limited though as I have only owned it for two seasons and some change. I also solo a lot and the soloist needs something to hold it upright and it seems to work great with the Yates. I used a Metolious double prior to this one and I had to use a 8mm prusick carried bandolier style under the chest harness. Yates also took my order over the phone and I explained that I'm rather large, and we measured me while on the phone and he put together what I wanted. Don't find that too often in businesses today.
  If faced with buying another, I believe I would buy the same one. Well padded with fleece shoulders, strong easy buckles, and seems to be durable as all get out. Enough room to carry all the gear for a "big pitch" comfortably.

  Bob

Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2009, 09:15:57 am »
Thanks. I guess I just wait some weeks to see my currency go up a bit against USD, so again it will be reasonable to buy and ship from the States. I'll probably end up with the Yates one, as I plan to get some more Yates stuff, adj.daisies, Screamers, so i can have the whole bunch directly from them. 

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2009, 01:36:08 am »
The pika stuff looks interesting in general.  I'm curious and would dig seeing some of their stuff live.

Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2009, 10:56:40 am »
Today I have received my pack from the States, containing among others a Yates DGS.
I have to say I'm impressed of what I've seen for the first check. I have not yet used 'on stage' but tried up, adjusted and seems to fit really well and has a thoughtful arrangement of loops.

Those who have one, what do you use the two small loops that are on both of the front side of the shoulder pads, just over the buckles?
(I'm not talking about the clip-in loops on the top of the shoulder straps)

Offline xtrmecat

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2009, 03:04:12 pm »
This is where my hooks ride, to keep them from hanging up on everything that they come into contact with. Also the left side is where my digital point and shoot rides, all the time.
    Bob

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2009, 11:57:16 pm »
Today I have received my pack from the States, containing among others a Yates DGS.
I have to say I'm impressed of what I've seen for the first check. I have not yet used 'on stage' but tried up, adjusted and seems to fit really well and has a thoughtful arrangement of loops.

Those who have one, what do you use the two small loops that are on both of the front side of the shoulder pads, just over the buckles?
(I'm not talking about the clip-in loops on the top of the shoulder straps)

I have used and I think the intended use is as your "go to" next piece. e.g. if in a balancey situation you don't want to fumble thru your whole rack, instead take the couple pieces you think you need and clip em right up front where you can grab em quick like.

Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2009, 11:22:02 am »
@xtrmecat: I have yet to find a place for the hooks where they don't catch up on everything. I've already considered putting them away in a small pack, hanging on the back of the gear loops.

@munge: sound like a good idea. Guess it will evolve for me what I use this loops for. Thought of putting the daisy/aider combo hanging from it while switching the from lower to the highest. Or in some ways hanging my bottle of red wine off of them. Maybe too risky, they'd break in a fall... Anyway, I'm off to the crags this weekend and will see how it develops.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2009, 04:01:06 pm »
I keep my hook in a Fish small beef bag:

http://fishproducts.com/catalog/bigwall.html



One set of hooks on a biner per bag (talon, grappling, cliff hanger, narrow and wide cam hooks).  By keeping them all on a biner you can't easily drop one accidentally.  I frig the right hook to the top of the snarl IN the bag, and then unclip it.  Since most fo the routes I've been on only have a few hook placements per pitch at most, this works for me very nicely.

Offline scottydo

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #14 on: April 28, 2009, 04:50:11 am »
Can the Mountain Tools Max Rack be used as a chest harness as well as gear sling?

skully

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #15 on: April 28, 2009, 06:12:25 am »
Yup.

Offline KevinW

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #16 on: April 28, 2009, 02:05:43 pm »
Those who have one, what do you use the two small loops that are on both of the front side of the shoulder pads, just over the buckles?
(I'm not talking about the clip-in loops on the top of the shoulder straps)

I know that a lot of people use the front loops as sub-racks for hooks, etc. I never keep anything on them permanently, instead I use the front loops like a 3rd hand to hold, say.. a biner full of small wires or whatever I'm futzing around with at the time, while trying to find a piece that works/fits. As for the loops on top of the shoulder pads, they're positioned perfectly so that you can clip through both and hang your rack up, which makes it really easy to sort out and re-rack the gear on. After using Yates Big  Wall harness and rack, I find it really hard to use anything else now. I get more then a few strange looks when people see me ice climbing in my Bigwall Harness.

skully

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #17 on: April 30, 2009, 08:20:50 pm »
I run an A5 double, which is chest harness strength, if necessary.
It has these small sewn loops at the shoulder, which I've girthed a tie off through, and clip my hooks on that.
I split them up, so I have a few for each shoulder.
Works good, unless there  is tight free climbing.
Of course, then the strippin' begins, huh?
« Last Edit: April 30, 2009, 09:53:38 pm by skully »

Offline Rags

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #18 on: May 01, 2009, 11:15:44 am »
This topic came up before,  I had some of the same questions back when.

Read this discussion, it has many good ideas for racking.

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=332.0
« Last Edit: May 01, 2009, 11:18:00 am by Rags »
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

skully

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Re: Double gear slings
« Reply #19 on: May 07, 2009, 10:32:25 pm »
Gracias, Rags. I'll just say it for everyone. Why not?