Author Topic: filed to a point cliff hanger  (Read 2980 times)

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Offline hoipolloi

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filed to a point cliff hanger
« on: March 01, 2009, 11:30:22 am »
can you tell me the usage difference between one filed to a point and one with the standard flat end?






i know, im a nub, but such is life. and i like to stock pile information.

Offline Mike.

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2009, 12:13:27 pm »
You are funny, hoi.


The pointed hook goes on steep, wide flakes to increase the fun and interest of stepping up while the hook, its feet away from the wall, vibrates in a rotating motion.

The flat hook is best used as a fun increaser on B.A.T. hook placements. Yaknow, trying to jam that fucker in there cause you're standing on your only pointed hook. Don't forget those upside-down camhook-style placements, too.

That's how some do it, anyway. Stay psyched!
« Last Edit: March 01, 2009, 12:17:34 pm by Mike. »
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Offline Garbonzo

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2009, 12:31:12 pm »
Also, there are occasional natural, and "enhanced" hook placements where a small divot on a flat horizontal is much more secure with a pointed tip than a blunt tip.  I've seen very few hook locations that I'm sure are "enhanced" as the wear and tear after lots of ascents would make either look the same over time, but basically think of a slopping horizontal that won't take a hook, but a few whacks with a 1/4" drill creates a secure divot (that's how their creation was described to me).

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2009, 03:45:17 pm »
Keep firing the questions Hoi...it's a good way to save learning curve time.

Admittedly I stay away from the super desperate stuff these days, but in Yosemite it seems best
to just have pointed hooks. My standard hook rack is 2ea black diamond hooks, cliffhanger and grapplers
both filed, and 2ea of the medium two cam hooks. If you know you're going for the A4 grit it can be nice to have
a big 2" Ibex hook or the Vermin monster(though a bummer it's so heavy compared to the PIka). This is the
hook rack that Chris Mac used for all his big wall ascents and it seems adequate, as long as you're not planning
on taping them to the wall like Pete. Even on flat hook placements the extra dig of a pointed hook seems deluxe.

One note about hooks is that I see a lot of folks sling em with 1/2" tie off webbing, which gets worn quickly and could
potentially break during a daisy fall if you were testing a piece and had your fifi come off and took a full daisy fall on a
hook. I put supertape on mine. This thicker stuff is especially good for the camhooks which get worn quick from repeated
use and from tapping them in under roofs and such.

e

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2009, 06:15:18 pm »
Nanook -

How do you sling your camhooks with the supertape?  Do you put it through then do a water knot?  I tried to do the overhand loop, pushed through, so the knot is sticking out the back side and doesnt contact the wall, but the hole is too small.  Had to use the thinner webbing to do it that way, so i used that on one, and super tape w/ water knot on another to see which is better (only been able to use em a tiny bit).

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2009, 09:41:01 pm »
I use to use the overhand knot pushed through back to front, because it seemed like it kept the downward pulling force closest to the wall and a little more secure.
But after reading a post(I think yours:) that mentioned that the webbing wore a lot faster that way(I do have to replace mine a couple times a year) I put a regular
water knot on em last time. Downward pull is probably downward pull, no?

Getting the supertape through the hole was a pain but not impossible if you use something pointy to get it started.

Edit from above: Chris Mac doesn't even bring a big hook, just 2ea of the BD three.

Offline Baltoro

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2009, 01:51:42 pm »
Regarding getting supertape through, I had good luck starting with a much longer piece and getting the end at a very sharp angle, like not flat per usual. Then seal the end with heat/flame whatever and then you can usually work the tape through.

It's a pain but it gets the beefier webbing through and will be much less painful and time-consuming than jugging back to your highpoint and trying to get past that flake without your hook of choice since you broke the weaker webbing and your hook is somewhere in the talus below.
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
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Offline Mike.

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2009, 02:36:10 pm »
Fish has 9/16" tie-off webbing. A lot stronger than the 1/2". Or thread one piece of 1/2" through another; that might still be thinner than supertape.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Mr.

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2009, 10:51:12 am »
Here's an image of a useful modified hook. The hook on the left is cut down, and filed to a rounded point. It is modified to work better on slabby placements. It does not pry off the feature you are hooking and is very stable. It also fits into pin scars and horizontal cracks better because it is not so tall. The hook on the right would probably shear off the edge it is placed on and needs more clearance



Super sharp or pointy hooks might not be the best option for fragile or soft rock. Always round them off a little.

Peace out.
Max

Offline Mike.

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2009, 12:26:09 pm »
^^^ Sweet modified hook.

I have one similar, but it's got a chisel-shaped point. It's like a jumbo BAT hook that works in other situations as well. I dig it.

Pointed Grappling hook is probably my all-time fave. It covers BAT to large-radius placements. No other hook I'm aware of can do that. Take a little off the tip when fashioning it so the point angles a bit more perpendicular to the hook body.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #10 on: March 03, 2009, 10:11:18 pm »
what's this?

pic of said grappleganger?

Offline Baltoro

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2009, 03:37:10 pm »
My "custom hook" was forged on the second pitch of Mideast Crisis when I bent a Cliffhanger open. At least the placement was good right?

Now it's a Cliffhanger that's bent into a cam hook shape. It could be really bitchin for super thin cam hook placements that you can get back in there a ways with. You have tons of camming action as the webbing pull point is so far from the pivot point but my guess is now that it's been bent once it will crumple with that kind of load.
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

skully

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Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2009, 04:29:33 pm »
I like the pointy cliffhangers,

I keep 2 standards with points, & not just because I think they're cool.