Author Topic: Lots of good info just make sure you listen  (Read 763 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Baltoro

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 154
    • View Profile
Lots of good info just make sure you listen
« on: March 05, 2009, 01:00:43 pm »
So I'm looking over topos again, trying to get psyched to go back down for Mideast Crisis on the Column. Then the filed hook thread reminded me if my own hooking debacle on that route.

So I take a closer look at my topos of Mideast Crisis. Both are photo-copied from SuperTopo or are atually printed pdfs from Mike's solo trip and have his edits here and there. Then upon closer inspection I realize one is a printed pdf and one is a copy I had made from Super Topo with handwritten edits added.

The only thing I forgot to add from Mike's notes on the whole topo is "#5 cam helpful" on the second pitch. Unfortunately I grabbed that topo when I went up and as such went up pitch 2 armed with lots of gear, but only up to a #4. I'm soloing by the way and wasn't tagging as the pitch goes around a tree and would be a pain to solotag on.

The pitch went relatively smoothly and clean which was my goal, at least until right near the top. The crack goes from very thin to a very wide flake pointing downish. I placed a small C3, maybe a 00 or 000 near the top of the thin crack. The crack seemed a little crumbly at the lip and I've never been super confident of microcams with their limited range in less than stellar rock. I placed my Cliffhanger on a nice edge and get up in the steps, or rings as it were as I'm on Russian Aiders.

So now I'm trying to place my #4 where a #5 should go. The #4 gets better and better the higher I shove it, but it still sucks. Unfortunately this means I have to transition to 'fraid climbing which for me is part free, part aid and all afraid.

Somewhere during all the fun I slip a bit and let go of the #4 which stays put. I take a daisy fall onto the Cliffhanger which bends it to 90 degrees (I'm 275lbs. with an aid rack on easy) which spits it off its bomber placement. I then come to that suspect little C3 which comes out easier than it went in. Unforunately for me I backcleaned the placement or two prior to this. Fortunately for me I had a properly brazed Offset Alien up next which caught my fall, just as my feet touched down onto the slab below. Sigh.

I jugged back up, hammered in a pin above where the C3 was and the confidence of well sunk steel got me freeing up to the #4 and eventually the anchor.

And all of this was because I got great information off the internet from some of the great resources we have here and I didn't implement it.

So the moral of the story is, listen to those who've gone before you and bring the #5!!
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline Mike.

  • Bigwall Shaman
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 911
    • View Profile
Re: Lots of good info just make sure you listen
« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2009, 01:34:24 pm »
Good save, B!

Uh, maybe bring a hammer on that pitch. More Racking for Stupidity by yours truly! #3 Camalot = crappy hammer...

Good to see MC getting attention. Some of that Prow traffic should be over there. Do it up, Baltoro!
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.