Author Topic: Lead Rope Suggestions?  (Read 3291 times)

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Offline Will

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Lead Rope Suggestions?
« on: March 20, 2009, 09:42:26 am »
I'm headed off to the valley in September and my partner and I are getting our gear list together. We're starting to look for good deals now. Among other things, we need a lead rope. I only have doubles (lots of trad and ice for the past few years). My partner's single line is beat. Based on experiences on the walls I have done (Trip, WC, Rainbow wall) I want about a 10.2 x 70. I'd settle for a 60 though. I'm in DC at the moment (I know... I know....), so if you have any suggestions for brick&mortar shops lemme know, otherwise I'm looking online.

I've been checking out this Beal Edlinger 10.2mm x 70M.

http://gearx.com/beal-edlinger-10-2mm-70m-std-rope.html

It seems to fit the bill, and is cheap. Cheap is good. But because I'm a wimp I'd like the rope to have some durability. Some online reports describe the rope as squishy, bouncy, and not so durable. I'm psychologically fragile enough as it is, I don't need the rope to add to my problems.

So, anyone have any favorite wall ropes? If you had to buy a new rope, which one would you get?

Offline lambone

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2009, 11:14:24 am »
Will, I'd highly recomend the Yates 70m bigwall rope. They make a couple diameters.

It is an expensive rope, but the thing is bomber and lasts forever. I think i have almost 10 walls on mine now and it's still looks great. It also has the UIAA edge safe rating wich offers good piece of mind.

Do you really want to be wondering if you should have bought the cheap rope as you dangle your ass 2000 feet above the talus?
« Last Edit: March 20, 2009, 11:16:16 am by lambone »

Offline xtrmecat

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2009, 11:30:12 am »
  I have owned and used up a couple PMI's, 10.5's I think. They are so stiff and hard to manage that it offsets their ability to withstand the wear it will see on a wall. Not even my second choice.
  Now I have a couple Bluewater bicolors, also fat but the main lead line is already showing some wear after about 50 pitches. I have read a few reviews and asked around and my next wall rope will probably be a Yates, as I have heard noone bad mouth it in any way. Ability to withstand edge abuse is a major plus in my book, as I frequently solo, and cannot see my rope at all times, and the piece of mind that would give, jugging, would offset any $$$ difference in my opinion. 70 meters seem like a nice step up for linking also.
  Bob

Offline lambone

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2009, 11:58:17 am »
fwiw- the Yates rope is made by Bluewater.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2009, 12:45:58 pm »
I've had really bad luck with PMI ropes. I've brought them on special and they have either become steel cables or worn very quickly!

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2009, 07:12:22 pm »
The Yates ropes are based on BlueWaters Slim Line Elite ropes... My sales Rep. says they are the exact same rope just in different colors. 

My top three big wall ropes in no particular order are:

Yates 10.2 or .3 ??

Mammut Super Safe 10.2

Edelweiss Sharp 10.5

I don't really have a favorite but I wouldn't buy anything else.

Offline Rags

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2009, 11:59:51 pm »
I've always sworn by Sterling ropes. They don't make the one I liked best anymore.
However, if I was in the market I'd be looking at one for sure.

I do have an Edelweiss that I like, but it's a free climber.

I will never own a Maxim. Everyone I ever touched was a screw.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2009, 12:18:24 am »
all my experiences with Sterling and Maxim indicate the ropes are crap. stiff and wear and sheath slippage.

Mammut has never done me wrong and I recommend them. I believe Mammut makes Metolius' ropes, but not sure these days.

Bluewater, similarly solid rope. Recommended.

Edelweiss, they used to oversize diameter, and have always had a good hand to them. Limited experience but probably good.

Offline Paulhauser

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2009, 01:52:02 am »

I've been checking out this Beal Edlinger 10.2mm x 70M.


I have this rope, this is Beal's most inexpensive rope over here. It is a basic one, not much extra, no dry core or whatever it is called. I haven't used for big walls yet. It does have a tendency to absorb more water that I thought it would when I was cragging this winter in snow/sleet. Handling is fine, wear is ok so far.
But next time I'd buy something a little beefier and with more "extra". Probably Beal Apollo II which is marketed as a rope for big walls.

My 0.2 cents...

Offline Rags

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2009, 09:59:52 pm »
That's funny

Quote
Mammut has never done me wrong and I recommend them.

Add one, I'll never own another Mammut. The last one I had last about 3 months free climbing, went all spongie and the sheath looked like a 10 tear-old rope.

Guess it's all experience, and no two ropes are the same.
Be Safe, Live Long, Climb Hard!

Rick

Offline Will

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2009, 02:25:55 pm »
Thanks for the advice all. Looks like I'll be keeping my eyes open for a deal on the Yates 10.3 or the Bluewater Slimline Elite.

Offline Baltoro

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2009, 10:38:22 am »
I highly endorse the Yates 10.3x70m.  It's been super burly for me. It also seems to have better impact force than lots of other ropes out there which instills nice piece of mind for strings of crappy placements.

My rules I try and live by when buying ropes:

-It's one of the very few pieces in the system that is not redundant. Money is no object here.
-Don't get a 65m when you really want a 70m. In fact don't get anything but a 70m for walls, assuming you're shortfixing. Your rope can aloow you to go faster.
-Get a dry treated rope. Even if it's not going to get wet, which it always does, they feed smoother and last longer as they don't let as much dirt and shit into the rope.
-Get a rope bag/bucket. Besides their usefulness at the crag or on the wall they keep your ropes clean when you're not busy getting them dirty.

Now I'm all fired up to go by a new wall rope but alas I don't need one because I bought the Yates in a 70m and it's still going strong. Sigh...
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

Offline offset

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2009, 11:01:18 am »
to add to the opinions....

i've had bad experience w/ the durability of Beal ropes.  i've only taken one up a wall and it core shotted (sp?) and the other beals i've gotten for cragging have not lasted very long.

HOWEVER...

i did get a edelwise sharp 10.5 last year and after two el-cap walls and some misc climbing with it... it looks barely used.     

there has been some trash talk that the sharp edge test is bunk (or something like that)... but the fact that it, along with a select few other ropes, passed the sharp edge test is a real peace of mind.   

when i retire this guy, i'm buying another one just like it...


skully

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #13 on: April 09, 2009, 04:11:53 pm »
IMHO, EdelWeiss Makes the toughest, yet easiest to handle rope, bar none.
They'll cost ya, but what's it worth to ya to not get chopped?

Hmmmmm?

Offline Mike.

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #14 on: April 09, 2009, 05:24:17 pm »
Gotta pile on the Sharp praise. A great hand and highly durable. Maybe the Stratos line turned ppl off; this rope is completely different. I'm holding out for the ARC (bi-pattern) version of the Sharp.

I coreshot a Mammut Supersafe with one run up WFLT. Pretty disappointing, because I generally like Mammut ropes. This particular rope never instilled great confidence for me--it seemed too soft for wall rigors.

A bro has gotten great longevity from the Yates cords he's used, and he's used them hard. I used one on a few pitches and liked it.

For an economical and durable cord, I can't think of anything better than Sterling Marathon. A bit stiff, but wowing durability.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2009, 05:58:00 pm by Mike. »
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Offline iceman777

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #15 on: April 09, 2009, 08:07:05 pm »
I like my sharp 10.5X70m bi pattern  not always a fan but now im convenced , the first one I owned felt like a cable to me that is untill I warmed up
to it ,guess I was just used to different ropes ..Just bought anouther Sharp for a backup

Anyway I would not trade this rope for anything it has held up well for me on Ice/Aid climbing/TR...

I have never used the Yates rope but for years I was a fan of the old standby BW 11X50m dry

My partner likes his mammut supersafe 10.2X70m

BTW I am now a true fan of bi pattern ropes   Hope this helps...

Offline Alpine07

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #16 on: April 10, 2009, 10:36:33 am »
That's good to hear about the Sterling Marathon, Mike. I've been thinking about picking up one of those for a new lead line. Being predominately a trad and ice climber, I usually go for the skinny lines, but I'm thinking it would be a wise decision to get a thicker cord for aid. Then I'll probably just designate an older lead rope as a haul line, while it may make hauling a little more difficult, it's nice to have a backup in case your lead rope gets thrashed. And I for one am not a big fan of leading on a static line!

Matt

Offline Mike.

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #17 on: April 10, 2009, 12:43:32 pm »
I like that thinking, A-07.

I bought mine before the skinnier ones were available. It's probably ten years old and looks barely used. I haven't had it on the front line a whole lot, but now that my old Roca Tasmania is gone it sure will be. I used it as a primary haul/rap line last year on Magic Mushroom, and it was a real confidence booster.



The red rope is the Marathon.

Knowing your projected uses I would definitely consider the thinner Marathon. Especially for use as the haul line later, that will be one very nice cord. If I was planning on a bunch of soloing, I'd get the fat one, but if not I'd lean toward the skinny. Dynamic cord won't make a enough difference vs static to be any big deal IMO.

Rock on...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Alpine07

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Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« Reply #18 on: April 10, 2009, 12:53:01 pm »
Awesome, thanks for the reply. Right now the options for the marathon are: Pro 10.1, Sport 10.4, and Ultra (??) 10.7. I'll probably go with the 10.4. It has real good reviews, seems to hold up like a tank. Most of what I have done in the aid field is solo, and will remain that way for the foreseeable future. Not too many aid climbers in PA.