Author Topic: Short fixing with 4  (Read 1947 times)

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Offline Caz

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Short fixing with 4
« on: May 21, 2009, 11:37:07 pm »
So is it still faster to short fix with a team of 4? Also is it more of a cluster to add a 3rd rope into the system? Any advice for speeding things up with a party of 4?


Thanks
Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline Caz

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2009, 01:34:05 pm »
Nobody?
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2009, 01:45:23 pm »
Only did a team of 4 once, on the Prow.....We called it the "Team Jingus" ascent.

Offline Mike.

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2009, 02:32:45 pm »
Caz, I think there's a good reason why we don't see more 4-teams. I think if efficiency with four is the aim then a leading team and a hauling team is the way to go (I've never done it). Otherwise there are not enough dedicated tasks to warrant the personnel. I know safety in numbers sounds good, but four or even three adds rigging complications and cargo which can be more frustrating than worth it in the end. Get your stuff dialed with one good partner and go from there. Suck up all the aid leads you can get rather than dividing them out.

Sure, you can shortfix with four. I would question why anyone would choose to climb with four and then look to speed things up. This just doesn't make sense to me.

Listen to skully. Jingus. It's something you do for a novelty or diversion from the work-a-day walls. I don't recommend it for a low mileage wall rat. Didn't a bunch of guys bail recently from EC trying to mob their way up it?
« Last Edit: May 25, 2009, 02:43:51 pm by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2009, 03:17:46 pm »
I know what your gettin at Mike. Not really my choice to go with 4. I think if someone doesn't bail I'm gonna be the A$$hole and let someone know their out. I have a funny feeling someone isn't gonna make it though.

Thanks for the words of advice.

Zac

I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2009, 05:15:29 pm »
You could always split to the fast & slow teams...........Just a thought.

Offline Caz

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2009, 10:55:58 pm »
I thought about that but there are a couple of problems.

1. I have the rack and the others don't have enough between the 3 to make up a second rack.

2. That adds a second rack and 2 more ropes you have to lug up and down.

3. It's going to be a learning experience for one of the guys so we don't want to leave him alone.

There's a few more small things but overall a yeam of 4 is the best option I'm guessing, but like I said, I have a funny feeling one person is gonna bail.

Thanks for the idea Skully

Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2009, 08:16:10 am »
if you're planning a vacation-style ascent and your chosen route has anchors that'll allow your posse to spread out, 4 could be fun.  More people to haul means you can pack more beer, and you'll have more 'off' time to chill on a ledge and take pictures etc.  Almost certainly no faster than a dialed pair of climbers, but we're not all after speed records...

The other benefit of short-fixing is that the leader is out of the way when the cleaner (& friends) get to the anchor, that might be as much of a plus in a big team as the speed. 

What route are you planning? 

Offline lambone

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2009, 10:38:28 am »
cut the weakest link...

Offline Caz

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2009, 10:59:04 am »
cut the weakest link...

I like your style Lambone...
I do this for fun...

Offline johnmac

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2009, 07:03:12 pm »
I've climbed in a group of 4 a few times and it worked okay. You can have a lot of idle time unless you are the person doing the leading... Best to do it in blocks swapping daily.

1. Group 1 leads and 2nd jumars up with 2nd rack.
2. Group 2 cleans and hauls and then passes the rack to first time.

You will have to take a 2nd rack and extra lead and haul line. Take a tag line as well.

The pair hauling will need to be pretty self sufficient and know how to clean and haul without slowing the leading pair down. That's the challenge. Once you are off the ground into the second day it goes pretty well. Anchors can be a challenge, especially if you don't have four or five bolts so you can get separation and have enough room to hang two ledges.

Which route are you looking at doing?

By the way have a great time.


Offline Caz

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2009, 08:19:13 pm »
Thanks for all the advice guy's

John, that's what I was looking to avoid, bringing more gear. That sounds like that system would go quick, thanks for the reply.


Well, I made the hard decision and told one of the guys that they would not be joining us on this wall. I've had some bad luck with my last few walls and I'm sick of bailing, so I'm just going to make it less of a cluster and drop some chances of bailing.

We're headed up to do the WFLT, leaving Friday night and gonna start climbing on Sunday. The first plan was to shoot for Aquarian Wall, but the time line isn't gonna work out with me and my partner.

I'll be chillin at the bridge on Saturday if anyone is up there.


Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline Didder

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Re: Short fixing with 4
« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2009, 03:34:51 am »
Team of 4 on WFLT would be fun to watch.... that would be some serious free hanging juggin' goin' on.