Author Topic: AfroMan!  (Read 8568 times)

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skully

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AfroMan!
« on: May 09, 2009, 09:01:52 am »
Howdy. Since Mike put the bug in my ear(eye?), I thought I'd try to wax all eloquent on my finest Column outing of all time(so far).
Namely, Afroman! (the crowd roars)......
 Summer '99.....after gettin' the trip reports from Jim-I Hayden & l'il Jonny Blair, I decide this classic MUST go down. I confer with Fro, of the 1st ascent party, who tells me he feels it's one of the finest on the Column. OK, I enlist Rambo(Nick Ginn), & start humpin' to the base. Well, Nick has a JOB(ugh), so I decide to lead the first bit solo. The topo says there's a 4th class way to the top of 1, but it must be secret. I climbed the 5.9A2....ah, well. The jungle on pitch 2 was, well, a jungle. Dammit!
 Nick showed up in time to lead the Horneyzontal(bombay slot thing), & I really enjoyed the flailin' & groaning. He was worried about takin' too long, but I had already fallen into the routine. It takes as long as it takes, right?
 Ah, Mornings on the Column ROCK! I dig the coolness, wither in the heat. Crossed the last low slab on pretty thin hooks, very cool. Nick led the next, getting us up to where we crossed Ladyland. Some cool circus tricks there. I love to watch my partner scheme it out, work the problem, & triumph. Good stuff! Now we're gettin' to the Really cool part of the route, out on the arete, left of EL. Thin beaks & blades, man.....very cool. I think that is where this shot of Rambo cleaning was taken....

Anyway.....Nick led the piece of Pie pitch, very cool, very clean, too! I got to wander around on the next A3+ ....cool nailing & hooks. We had some great hangin' bivys on this wall, too. Great times. I got an A1 splitter after that because Nick wasn't gettin' the nailing pitches, I was hoggin' them all(bwaa, ha,ha,ha).....So we made a trade, I'd lead 2 in a row here, and Rambo could lead us through the Tsunami, an awesome feature up high. Good trade for him, a bit of bushwhackin' for me(just 1 bush...NTB). So we didn't realize the Tsunami was expanding until Nick's pins started creakin' & shifting. He was fairly bug eyed, WAY interested in GOOD gear at this point. I got him to gently expand the thing, hopefully not sendin' him for a ride.......Hey, it worked. After that, the business of the route was over, and we gladly heaved up over the slabby finish that the Column is so known for at the top. I think I freaked Nick out a bit, because I had to peel out of those crusty clothes, but trustworthy hippy boy didn't let on......alrighty, then back in your filthy togs, matey.(dammit!).                     A fine bowl of contraband, & final beers....Then a summit bivy.
 The hike down is always a battle, but we worked it out without dying(again). Whew.....AfroMan 5.9A3+   Awesome route! Highly recommended.
  Now, I'm goin' trail bikin'.............Enjoy!
« Last Edit: September 17, 2010, 06:30:04 pm by skully »

Offline Mike.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2009, 12:08:55 pm »
Fabulous, skully!

Nice report, mate. Sounds like you had the climbing well in hand. Afroman sounds like a grade 6--not too many of those on WC. Bravo on the climb and putting down the prose and pic.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2009, 10:07:41 pm »
Well, it's 10 pitches, and we were not trying to rush it.....Everything in its own time.
Naw, I'd still call it grade V. Jim-I soloed the thing in like two bivys. We're running a cargo scow, not a clipper ship.

Yarrr. Glad ya enjoyed the Voyage, matey. Now if I could just find Rambo & those other pics!

Offline Caz

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2009, 12:20:55 pm »
Thanks for the TR. You've got a good memory for routes. I can't remember a thing from my first wall and that was only in 04...


Zac
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2009, 10:40:38 pm »
I was cheatin' Caz, the topo's in front of me......Pretty memorable, though.

Offline lunchbox

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2009, 11:57:30 pm »
Hey Skully....any way you can scan that topo and post it up?

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2009, 11:30:34 am »
PM me & I'll send it to ya.

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2009, 04:09:26 pm »
Nice Tr!  Am I wrong or is the "Afroman"  the same or a variation of "Horney/johnson"?  I talked to troy a few years ago and he said it was a fun route, I just haven't heard of Afroman until this site.


Offline Mike.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2009, 04:22:26 pm »
Different line. HJ is a variation of Mideast Crisis.

HJ looks pretty outrageous, I'll bet the most exposed place you can find on the Column. Steep corners or faces are one thing...HJ climbs the overhanging left arete of MC's huge right-facing system. Somebody better get on that.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2009, 04:28:13 pm by Mike. »
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2009, 04:24:59 pm »
where is Afroman located at?  Does it share pitches with another route?  Probably left of astroman no?

Just want to mark it in the book, looks badass

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2009, 04:27:37 pm »
No, it's a complete distinct line. H/J runs into Astroman, AfroMan starts just right of E. LadyLand, then crosses EL to the left, stays out on this cool steep arete for awhile.
Highly recommended...1st 2 are kinda junk. The rest really makes up for it.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2009, 06:03:59 pm by skully »

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #11 on: June 18, 2009, 04:29:40 pm »
Thanks alot, as always!
Mucci

Offline Mr.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2009, 04:41:08 pm »
is the 2nd pitch of Afroman immediately to the right of he Electric Ladyland 2nd pitch? off of that huge ramp/ledge (top of p1) EL goes up a shallow corner on the face, just to the right is a bigger dihedral with a few copperheads leading to a grassy overlap/roof. is that Afroman?

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2009, 04:44:24 pm »
Yeah, with this jungle growing out of the 1st half...after the bushes kicked my ass, the rest was pretty fun.
The real clincher is when you're under the HorneyZontal. It's a maw.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2009, 01:49:56 pm by skully »

Offline Mr.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2009, 04:53:04 pm »
afro looks cool up high. yo skully, have you scoped that thin kb splitter just to the right of EL p5 or 6 or 7. spotted some .25"ers w/ some tat and then a gorgeous straight in thin crack going up a slightly overhanging headwall. looks like it is just to the left of astroman... is that the HJ? looked at the HJ topo after spotting it and it doesnt look like there is that feature is on that route. looks badass. splitter take off right above a slab section.

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2009, 05:08:18 pm »
H/J is right of AstroMan, like Mike was sayin', it's a variation of Midest Crisis....Lotta features over there.
The higher wall on AfroMan is the Shit. Very cool.

Offline Mr.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2009, 05:31:49 pm »
this thing finished to the left of astro but 60' right of EL , looks like an independent finish. can't be HJ if HJ is mostly to the left of astro. glory! that splitter looked good. suuuuper thin, no head cables pokin out.

edit: found this pic, posted on this forum by e. sloan. shows second pitch of afroman, just to right of climber... throught the grass, i think.

« Last Edit: June 18, 2009, 06:06:26 pm by Mr. »

Offline Mike.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #17 on: June 18, 2009, 06:06:06 pm »
HJ is between Astroman and MC.

Lots of rock between EL and Astro, esp @ mid-height. Hard to imagine someone not up there snooping around...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Mr.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #18 on: June 18, 2009, 06:08:59 pm »
yeah i just looked at some overview photos of the column and i can't even point out where this thing is 'cause there's a lot goin' on up there. snoopity snoop, someone got a good one.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2009, 06:24:11 pm by Mr. »

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2009, 06:12:17 pm »
Yeah, that's the Welcome to the Jungle pitch....I kept right as much as I could.....Watch that little pillar...It's detached.
You can JUst see the beginning of the HorneyZontal.

Offline Mr.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #20 on: June 18, 2009, 06:24:42 pm »
not my photo. is this the horneyzontal? also marked where i remember the splitter being.

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #21 on: June 18, 2009, 10:12:11 pm »
Correct, sir. I saw that killer splitter......Wondered where it led.
Such a cool Wall. Did my first solo around the corner.(Skull Queen) I like The Column!
I'd climb another Wall there, fo' sho'...

Offline Baltoro

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #22 on: June 19, 2009, 03:28:52 pm »
Does anyone have a topo or any beta for H/J? It would be cool to have an alternate start to Mideast Crisis as it seems the money pitches on that route are the corners up above, not for their difficulty but for their position.
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
M. Twight

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #23 on: June 19, 2009, 03:49:51 pm »
Horney/Johnson  Topo is in the '93 Don Reid Big Walls book.

Offline Mike.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #24 on: August 12, 2009, 08:27:36 am »
Whack that mole.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #25 on: August 26, 2009, 12:28:46 pm »
done and done. spambot deleted.

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #26 on: August 26, 2009, 01:33:03 pm »
Munge rules!
And that's not a thing to say lightly.

Offline Mike.

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #27 on: August 26, 2009, 02:08:20 pm »
Thanks, your mungeness.



Now...somebody's gotta go confirm the greatness of this route. In the name of research and public service. Don't make do it. Okay, make me...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

skully

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #28 on: August 26, 2009, 04:10:58 pm »
You KNOW what I'd say......Don't make me say it again.
You know I will......Yarrrr.
Mike, grab the Mungey One & go groove on the "Fro.
'Twill be a worthy venture, methinks.

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: AfroMan!
« Reply #29 on: August 28, 2009, 05:48:51 pm »
I remember some spanish guy was putting up a new route solo somewhere in between astroman and mideast crisis. this was in spring of 07 i belive we where on TDA and heard him drillen for oil over there. anyone know anyhting more?