Author Topic: Head Mod  (Read 1586 times)

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Offline KevinW

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Head Mod
« on: May 12, 2009, 03:43:54 pm »
Thought I'd share an idea which you can dismiss as a waste of time, or that I have too much time, but for what it's worth, here it is.

I've always made my own heads, and one thing that's constantly bothered me about all heads, bought or home brewed, is all the
edges that seem to get snagged on everything. I realize that they are rough, crude, gear by the very nature of their construction, but
thought I'd try to improve on my method(s) at least and eliminate the snag points on the clip loop. Maybe it's how/where I hold them
while I'm going through deciding which one I'll use, but the swage that forms the clip loop ends, up hooked on something more so then
the other swages. You'll also notice that a lot of the knobs and ends have been rounded off. Place it once and most of that goes to shit,
but I've never placed a head twice.. so it works for me.



I figured that all the uncompressed metal on the swage is of little value. I doubt that it contributes much, if anything to it's strength.
Using a hand file and a 2" vertical belt sander, I get rid of all the extra swage, taking it down to the level of the compressed parts. I
finish it off with the belt sander until I am left with a nice smooth, cylindrical-shaped swage, which I cover with a length of heat-shrink
tubing, doubling a small piece on the top end, partly for better wear resistance, but mostly because after trimming all the tubing for
various projects, I had a bag full of little pieces that "Captain Frugal" aka "El Cheapo"  , just couldn't throw out.



Finished clip loop.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Head Mod
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2009, 11:07:38 pm »
nice, but you'll never make a million bucks off it.

;)

Offline KevinW

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Re: Head Mod
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2009, 11:19:05 pm »
For everybody else I just make the standard knock-off, no frills version, with no guarantee, just the standard "body weight only"  disclaimer.
I was thinking of sending some off to that "Break-o-tron"  dude and have him pull test them.. just out of curiosity.

Offline xtrmecat

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Re: Head Mod
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2009, 10:41:34 am »
  Kevin, good idea to test em. I have worked in metal fab most of my adult life and there may be more at work here than we realize.
The removed metal may have appeared to serve no purpose, but in fact very well could be strenthening and supporting the swage right next to it.I am willing to bet, that this will in fact reduce the pull threshold of the head. But after all they are body weight plus just a little anyhow. Keep us up on how they do.
   Bob

Offline KevinW

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Re: Head Mod
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2009, 12:00:45 pm »
It's probably good advice Bob, I'll make up a few both ways, pull test them and post the results.
I had BreakOTron destroy some other gear for me because I was curious if there was any benefit to
using a climers-hitch over a girth-hitch when attaching a sling directly to a stopper or, other wired gear.

Results you may be interested in:

Strength test of nylon sling girth hitched to cable

Strength test of nylon sling climer hitched to cable


Offline xtrmecat

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Re: Head Mod
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2009, 09:27:06 pm »
  Sorry for the thread drift here. I probably will not put soft goods directly on cables, a lesson learned from none other than Kate.
  If I recall, she took the award for whipper of the year, probably decade too. Some of the distance, according to my memory
of what she said, was directly from hitching rivet hangers to softgoods, screamers if I remember right.
  It's all A-1 till you fall, right? And thanks for the pull data, good stuff to be aware of.
     Bob

skully

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Re: Head Mod
« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2009, 09:54:55 pm »
Arrrgh. Yeah, I've never connected wires(any kind) directly to runners. It just LOOKED jingus, to me.........
Metal cuts things......maybe a few more biners?.........never can have too many.

Offline KevinW

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Re: Head Mod
« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2009, 01:17:42 am »
This all came about after my only piece or pro in 60' was a wire I had fished deep into a slimy flaring crack, so deep that the only way I could connect to it
was directly with a sling because with a biner I couldn't get it in far enough to place. It was definitely better then nothing, but I cringed at the thought of
a girth hitched sling on the wire. I reverted to the "climers hitch", which would reduce the sharp edge effect of a sling over such a small radius. Later there
was  debate over the merits of using a "climers-hitch"   as opposed to a "girth-hitch"  which is when I decided to have BreakOtron pull test both
methods to the point of failure.

I totally agree, soft gear on wires is not recommended, and something I would have only done as a last resort, but it's always nice to have as many tricks
in the ole tickle trunk as possible, after all climbing is (especially aid)  all about being resourceful IMO.