Poll

How likely are you to try to free "free" sections high on the Wall?

10%
3 (27.3%)
25%
1 (9.1%)
37.7%
2 (18.2%)
43.9%
2 (18.2%)
58.6%
1 (9.1%)
78.2%
0 (0%)
Oh, we're on it!
2 (18.2%)

Total Members Voted: 10

Author Topic: Wall Free climbing  (Read 2283 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

skully

  • Guest
Wall Free climbing
« on: June 12, 2009, 10:28:08 pm »
Just wonderin'.....I've been known to avoid steppin' out, high on the Wall......
Boldness is HARD, sometimes...
« Last Edit: June 12, 2009, 11:26:40 pm by skully »

Offline hoipolloi

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 305
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2009, 11:44:35 am »
I think for me, it depends on what the overall goal on the wall is (speeding along, cruising, short-fixing, freeing as much as we can, etc.). 


I freed the last pitch on Skull Queen, the amazing 10c layback finger crack at the very top, after leading and hauling the whole thing with my girlfriend.  I felt pretty proud of that!


I think to really do a lot of free pitches on a climb I would have to leave the ground with the intention of doing as much free climbing as possible, otherwise its too hard (often mentally as well as physically/technically) to change over from aid to free.  Its tough to bust out stout 5.10 or 5.11 with a wall rack on. Haha...

skully

  • Guest
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2009, 04:00:04 pm »
I got nowhere close to freeing that pitch! Of course, I wasn't in any kind of "free" mode.....I was soloing. But still, I've seen Klaus do some cool free stuff while soloing. But he's good, too.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2010, 05:17:49 am by skully »

Offline KevinW

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 174
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2009, 09:09:25 pm »
I had to check this thread out just to see exactly how one would go about "Wall Free Climbing(Climbing without a wall).

Now that I *get it*.. I have to admit that I've busted out the aiders because I just didn't feel bold enough.. more then once. I do try however, to free as much as I can. Even if it's just a move or two, here and there. I don't know about everyone else, but on easy aid I am constantly asking myself, "am I just being weak? could I.. should I.. be trying to free this? "

I figure that those few bold moments I have where I just *go for it*, all add up to lot of time saved between aiding and cleaning, that gets you ahead, maybe just enough to reach that ledge or whatever, which you otherwise wouldn't have.

The other scenario is sort backwards. After hours and hours of tedious aid.. you see a chance to gain some ground *if* you can pull off a few scary free moves, do you go for it? Personally.. if it's been a war of inches getting to this point, then I'll probably get up the ballz to go for it. On the other hand if it's a plug-n-play section, screw the hero stuff, I'll probably just keep on pluggin the gear in!

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2009, 10:46:28 am »
"Never get out of the boat, er aiders" - Mungebob Grungepants


the question says 'how likely' well likely implies there is an option.  unless I have to, I will inflict pain on my feet.  now, there are lots of 'necessity' situations like need to go fast, etc. but that's a 100% thing, no 'likely' about it.


Offline Caz

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 520
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2009, 02:55:44 pm »
Screw that! Free climbing scares me! ;)
I do this for fun...

Offline Mike.

  • Bigwall Shaman
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 911
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2009, 08:36:21 pm »
Great topic, skully.

Free climbing's a great tool in the box, IMO. Depending on the route, it might be more...How are you going to do the Nose or Salathe without jamming out 5.8-9? How about mandatory free like Texas Flake or EC Spire? But yes, it is tough at times to transition mentally and physically. I'll slog on aid through 5.reasonable without a thought, depending. Footwear choice(s) really play in. Smearing slab with Boreal wall boots...hahaha.

Even with the amazing efforts made by the elite free climbers on the walls, I think free skills, overall, are becoming more underrated in big wall climbing. Mastering 5.9 used to be de facto criterion for anyone considering big walls. I guess that went out with the Leeper hangers...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline scottydo

  • A2 Flyer
  • ***
  • Posts: 79
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2009, 02:28:16 am »
I think that I'd try to free anything that was within my ability unless I'm tired. That will make a really long route shorter.

Offline Mike.

  • Bigwall Shaman
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 911
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2009, 11:32:43 am »
"...unless I'm tired"...or hefting a giant rack and mondo haul line while single-binering pins, or owning sausages with separated nails for fingers, or clipping amusing relics for pro, or being malnourished and dehydrated, or feeling ball shrinkage from 2K' of air under your heels, or in approach shoes, or out of booze and drugs, or being dialed with your aid technique, or... After a couple days of toil, you will be tired, so you may as well start harvesting other excuses now. There are plenty to choose from. : )

Cheers, scotty.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline hammock-soloer

  • A3 Fool
  • ****
  • Posts: 107
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #9 on: June 16, 2009, 01:58:32 pm »
on the 3rd pitch, imeditally after the roof, on the prow I had to step out of the aiders to a left side pull in order to place a #4 solidly. luckly their is a good flat 4" edge to step on and the side pulling only went for about 4 feet. Then the crack stopped flaring so much and I was able to easily place the cam. after several bottemfeder (failed attempts and bailing partners) I am starting to realize that there is lots of free climbing to be had on the bigger walls. in fact I think that I could turn many difficult aid pitches into 30 min. 5.9 pitches.

Offline Thorgon

  • Posts: 4
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2009, 07:33:37 pm »
Definitely "had" to do this many times and it "always" sucks! It is a huge mental conundrum because you are a "static being" in the aiders. Then you have to leave the security of "the nest" and try to fly on your own, this activates the brain's "Oh Sh*t" mode, then it is mental Hopscotch until you fly or die! This seemed to be the norm on a lot of aid routes in North Carolina in the early nineties, it seemed I was always venturing out into the abyss.... Definitely a great skill to master if you want the Big Stone! IMHO


Thor

skully

  • Guest
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #11 on: June 24, 2009, 07:54:38 pm »
Well, it sure don't hurt.....Ya know, there actually some pretty cool free things up there in the sky.
But, like ya say, it's the static to dynamic switch that's hard.
But, if I HAVE to pull a move or three or FALL, I'm in there. You bet.

Offline lambone

  • WebDJ
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 571
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #12 on: June 24, 2009, 08:50:37 pm »
Pretty much only mandetory free, or 5.8 and below. Why would you want to free climb with a wall kit on?

Offline Caz

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 520
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #13 on: June 24, 2009, 11:31:31 pm »
Now that I think about it, it seems like I've free climbed more while solo than with a partner...

Is that F'ed up?
I do this for fun...

Offline Thorgon

  • Posts: 4
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #14 on: June 26, 2009, 11:30:51 am »
Definitely adds to the "sketch" factor!


Thor

Offline johnmac

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 486
    • View Profile
Re: Wall Free climbing
« Reply #15 on: June 26, 2009, 12:24:54 pm »
For me it depends a lot of what sort of footwear I'm wearing. If I'm wearing my stiff aid boots then I basically don't free anything unless I really have too! If I'm wearing my 5.10 tennies (my current favourite wall shoe with ski boot inserts), I'll get out of my aiders from time to time to get ahead on 5.6 - 5.8 terrain, etc.

Right now I'm looking at buying a pair of sportiva tradmasters that I've sized for a comfy fit wearing socks to become my next wall boot. I think having a rock shoe will really help me free more than I currently do. I used to have a pair of old oversized aces that worked a trick at this. If they don't work out I'll just sell them on Ebay and probably make a profit!