Author Topic: New Wall Gear for 2010  (Read 4193 times)

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Offline Mr.

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New Wall Gear for 2010
« on: July 20, 2009, 05:46:56 pm »
-Metolius, new portaledge like the Fish One Night Stand.... sweet. Weighs 40% of current single Bombshelter. Called the Gizmo, a stupid name for a rad product.
-DMM, dual axle cams. Speaks for itself.
-BD has redesigned the hotwire I-beam style, lighter, better, less $$. Nice 'biner, gotta say. Also, new wall gloves that look sik.
-Petzl, new pulleys, lighter, more efficient.
-Blue Water, new 10mm lead cord, skinnier version of the Blue Water/Yates FreeWall 10.3mm. Excellent cut/abrasion resistance and lightness @ ~66g/m. Also, a new 8mm tag/haul/rap line. A burly stiff cord that doesnt tangle or stretch.

There's more, but I can't tell... yet. Its gonna be a good year for wall climbers.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2009, 06:58:27 pm »
awesome!

i dont really need new toys right now =(






ahh who am I kidding, we always need new toys...

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2009, 10:44:40 pm »
Cool...  Can't wait till I can get off my fat ass and wear out all my old stuff so I can buy the new shiny...

Offline BrendenR

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2009, 11:58:01 am »
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=216&ngroup=1

Link to the DMM news on the new cams.  Looks cool.

Offline lambone

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2009, 12:27:23 pm »
One of those mini portaledges would be perfect for push ascents.


Offline johnmac

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2009, 01:18:17 pm »
Thanks for the inside scoop... Time to go and start selling gear on Ebay to finance some new stuff!


Offline hoipolloi

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2009, 06:10:33 pm »
so what IS the new stuff you cant tell us about.

how about you go ahead and tell us..


you know you want to Mr.

skully

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2009, 09:27:01 pm »
Dude, I'm gonna "old School" a season right now, so It's outa my league, anyhow.
Squeezin' on my base resources, so we'll see what happens.
Maybe some Triumph. Maybe not. I'm gonna see. As will you.
Woot!

Offline johnmac

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #8 on: July 22, 2009, 09:49:24 pm »
The new metolius portaledge is 2 x 4 feet in size and will retail for 395.00...

Sounds more like a comfy belay seat to me!

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #9 on: July 22, 2009, 10:37:02 pm »
Fish version costs $299, and come with a bucket for your feet and/or rope.  A strip sort of holds the bucket up in psuedo hammock style.  He doesn't call it the One Night Stand for nothing...




Offline hoipolloi

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #10 on: July 22, 2009, 11:11:46 pm »
wtf 400 bucks for a 2x4 ledge....


I think I would make one that would serve the purpose sooner than pay that.



but then my buddy has a one night stand....so I guess I dont have to do either!

skully

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #11 on: July 22, 2009, 11:45:51 pm »
I got my A5 single on FleaBay for 2 Bens.
More ledge, same cash. Wait, it will appear.
I like the Fleabay.

Offline scottydo

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #12 on: July 22, 2009, 11:59:25 pm »
new metolius single stem offsets! think these will compare to the alien offsets?

Offline johnmac

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #13 on: July 23, 2009, 09:20:29 am »
Good to see another offset opiton out there...

I have a set of TCU offsets and two sets of alien offsets so right now I don't see myself buying anymore at this stage, but its great to see them being offered.

i haven't taken to master cams personally yet and still would rather use aliens for aid.

Offline Mike.

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #14 on: July 23, 2009, 10:27:14 am »
Nothing very exciting here compared to climbing with old gear. Wake me up when it's time...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #15 on: July 23, 2009, 11:30:29 am »
once metolius fixs that fabric retraction piece, I'll check again. Great company tho.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #16 on: July 23, 2009, 04:59:39 pm »
the mastercam offsets sound nifty.  i really would like to try climbing with a set of those things and see how they are.  I have only placed the yellow, while free climbing.  it was nice.

I would love to try more sizes and try them for aiding to see how they do....

but..i have a double set of aliens + a set of offsets...

Offline Caz

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #17 on: July 24, 2009, 04:50:28 pm »
4' long ledge for a guy that's 6' tall guy like me... Screw that!
I do this for fun...

Offline KevinW

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #18 on: July 27, 2009, 11:42:47 pm »
new metolius single stem offsets! think these will compare to the alien offsets?


Better then most in the medium-to-small single stemmed cams currently available, but still not totally there yet,
(I hear there's already a re-design in the works, something about twisting and self retraction).
I still think Alien has the better stem design, but I have trouble climbing on gear I no longer trust.

once metolius fixs that fabric retraction piece, I'll check again. Great company tho.

Ya.. those strings were another thing I noticed yesterday and winced, they do look *weak*,
not to mention a pain in the ass to fix on a climb. I like the one little roll of spare wire and
a small pair of pliers fixes everything standard myself.

Offline scottydo

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #19 on: July 29, 2009, 02:17:52 am »
These may not necessarily be Big Wall gear but I'm a fan of the C.A.M.P. nano biners for racking my cams, so i think these are pretty sweet. Supposed to be around 23 grams.


Offline offset

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #20 on: July 29, 2009, 09:15:34 am »
my new wall gear for 2010.... UPS says it's on my door today (w00t).  i'm actually going to try and get fitness on my side for my next wall.  imagine that.....fitness....


Offline Mike.

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #21 on: July 29, 2009, 10:53:01 am »
Yea, imagine putting some reliance on being in shape for aid walling. Or ?gasp* free climbing. That's a concept that seems to elude some who think trinkets are gonna propel them up a wall. I'm putting my money on offset to send handily...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline KevinW

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #22 on: July 29, 2009, 12:24:50 pm »




23 grams, hrmm.. sure that's not *35 grams*? 23 gram sounds a lot like my key chain biner!

Personally I don't want my biners getting any smaller, I find the few small lightweight ones that I own to be a pain in the a$$.
Even if I was one of those super-human 5.14 free climbing freaks, I'd prefer my big old ovals. I tend to extend my placements..
a lot, (gravity suck enough without adding rope drag into the mix), and I've found when climbing with a mixed rack of my
partners and my gear, that when I get down to his selection of light-weight wire gates, I end up having to double them up on
the rope end of the extending sling. They are so light, that a single biner (especially with a skinny dyneema sling), that the
biner will often ride up the rope instead of laying where you placed it and swing into the direction of the fall when the rope is
unweighted, like it should. It's definitely a worse combination with the light-weight dyneema, not only does the sling ride up with
the biner, but it tends to get hung up on small features and remains there until cleaned, often totally compromising the integrity
of the placement. It could just be my personal little quirk, but something to take into consideration when thinking about buying
 ultra-light biners.

Using them for racking may be a great idea, I like the BD notchless positrons  myself, especially for racking wires I prefer the keylock
nose on them. My criteria for a dedicated racking biner is.. a wide gate opening, a shape that allow lots of pieces to be racked w/o
having a CF, and solid not wire gates, especially for racking wires which somehow always seem to end up jammed through the wire
gate after less then gracefully clawing my way up a desperate stretch of rock. Preferably notchless, the absence of a notch makes
racking and un-racking gear (especially anything wired)  a lot smoother. If you rack on/off the gate instead of the nose of the biner,
this isn't as much of an issue, but with a full aid rack I find gate racking awkward. I works great for ice screws though!

For me... new gear this year will mostly  consist of replacing old gear that was lost and/or left behind, with it's closest equivalent.
Probably Ebay'ing it to restock the old *evil* iron collection, a lot of the pitons that work really well here, haven't been produced in years.
 
« Last Edit: August 06, 2009, 02:00:58 pm by KevinW »

Offline scottydo

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #23 on: July 29, 2009, 11:50:00 pm »
To each his own. They're definitely 23 grams though. Full strength-22kn on the long axis.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #24 on: July 30, 2009, 01:01:06 am »
some of us rack a single biner on certain cams, I sure would like to make those small and light.


Offline Mike.

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Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« Reply #25 on: July 30, 2009, 10:28:40 am »
I'm with KW. Those teensie biners are bumby compared to a Neutrino or Oz. The tiny ones seem to have a very stiff (and obviously short) gate. Add a pair of gloves and you've got bumble factor.

I rack multiple cams on single biners on walls and often on free climbs. No way is one of those toy biners going to handle that effectively.

But yea, to each his own. Thanks for the info.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.