Author Topic: Jet Stream  (Read 2340 times)

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Offline buffalohorn

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Jet Stream
« on: May 03, 2006, 12:55:33 pm »
Climbed the Jet Stream on Half Dome a few summers ago. A fantastic route with little fixed gear and wicked steep! There are a few A4 sections which are pretty tame, your run of the mill expando which is fairly short. All anchors are bomber and theres a great natural belay about midway up the route. I've always climbed the dome in August when everyone is sweating their butts off. The dome remains in the shade for most of the day until late afternoon. We always have been able to pump water from the base of the regular route and then blast off on the main wall. Also have climbed Tis-sa-ack and Zenith. By far my most memorable experiences. No crowds just wide open climbing to be had. Approach from Mirror Lake, it's grueling but well worth it. Takes around three hours to get to the base assuming you know were your going. Even shuttle loads to make it easier and pump all your water on the first day. This sets you up pretty good! Be ready to bust free moves out of your aiders on these routes.

Offline syrinx

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Jet Stream
« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2006, 08:02:37 pm »
How many nights did you spend on each route, and what walls had you climbed prior? Sounds like a great time. I've never made it onto the dome yet, but plan to next summer (this summer my leg is busted:()


Syrinx
Never approach a bull from the front, a horse from the rear, or a fool from any direction!

Offline the_dude

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Jet Stream
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2006, 10:53:42 pm »
Nice! I'd love to hear more about Tis-sa-ac.

Offline buffalohorn

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Tis-sa-ack
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2006, 11:11:12 am »
This route was the first one my buddy and I did on Half Dome. We both worked at the raft stand in Curry Village and would stare at the wall during the summer months. After coercing our boss to let us off for a week, we went for it. Weeks of whispering Tis-sa-ack to eachother had us very psyced to say the least. Our first day we approached via the slabs and pumped all our water and fixed to pitch three. What followed was eight days of bliss. The obvious dihedral down low is superb. Bomb cracks at two inches or so. There is some loose rock on the route as well as some wide cracks. Bring a six inch piece unless you like 10d offwidth. We had a minimal nailing rack and placed not a single copperhead on the route. The Ramp is a great bivy(covered by feathers when I climbed to it at one in the morning). The next day a peregrine caught some breakfast and ate it at the ramp as I was cleaning the next pitch. Thus explaining the feathers....The bolt ladders on the upper part of the route are the most sketchy I've seen in Yosemite. Yes, even worse than the T-Trip rivet ladders back in the day! Send the lightest climber on these pitches and be prepared with plenty of tie-offs. Robbins sure was in a hurry to get the hell off the wall!! The only fall of the route happened on the summit pitch. I was climbing clean and hand placed a couple pins when one angle I was on pulled. I caught myself with my hands and hung for an instant before falling into space for 15 feet or so. Steep and clean....Highly recommend this route for folks who dig A3 and easier climbing. A true adventure and enjoy the RR and CP stamped hangers at belays throughout the route.

Offline buffalohorn

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How many routes??
« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2006, 11:19:44 am »
Eight days on Tis-sa-ack, six on Jet Stream, and seven on Zenith....We like to go slow and party......I lived in the valley from 1995 to 2001 and climbed alot. Climbed about a dozen El Cap routes and loads of grade V's. Done walls in Squamish, Zion Canyon and various FA's that will hopefully remain obscure! I live in Oakhurst,CA, a mere 40 minute drive to the valley. Always enjoy the company of capable, non-spewing and honest about their abilities wall climbers. I have rack to climb anything in the valley save for a few more heads..... Good luck with the broken leg, be easy on ypourself and remember, the walls will still be there.....