Author Topic: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies  (Read 2298 times)

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Offline johnmac

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Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« on: August 10, 2009, 12:25:59 pm »
Has anyone else done this...

Gone from standard daisies to adjustables and then back to standard daises after a few years...

I've pretty much come full circle and have gone back to using standard daisers for everything, including jugging, anchoring, aiders, etc.

I like the adjustables, but ...

Jugging
When I switched back to using standard daises I really noticed the differience in weight. Sure, it might be only a few ounces but I tend to really notice it when jugging...

Fraying webbing
The Yates buckle/webbing combination wears out really fast and you end up having to replace the webbing after a wall or two. Not a big deal, but it frays before your eyes....

As a docking system for haul bags
I've gone back to using a piece of 8mm for this... just so much lighter and has more options

Aiding
Likewise with aiding. I don't use daisies on aiders until about c3 and when I do using the old system is just so much cleaner and lighter...

Anchoring
A couple of times my buckle has slipped and given me a hell of a fright!


So, I've gone full circle back to my old systems. Its cheaper, lighter and with a bit of practice just as easy to use. Weight all that stuff up and it starts to add up. I've also gone from 4 aiders to 2 ladders, big weight difference there too!

Anyone else done this or am I the only screwball here?


Offline Mike.

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2009, 02:30:58 pm »
Dialing it in, jm....


Can't say I ever fully embraced the adjusties:

A couple of leads told me I couldn't stand them for that. I don't need to set up a haul for my own body at every piece. The buckle buttons can get inadvertently pressed by taught webbing. Sudden drops on lead or an anchor, forget it.

If I'm jugging exclusively I'll use adjustable everything--foot straps and daisies. Nothing can touch that setup for efficient cleaning IMO. I've used them a bunch for cleaning solo. Since my leapfrogging partners aren't hip to them, they don't get much use these days. And I've taken to using the lead gear more for cleaning lately on solo, thinking your way.

Docking, no way am I giving them up for full size bags. What's the weight of an adjusty compared to a 100+ pound bag? I don't dig the shoulder burn tying M?nter mules after a long lead. That's one instance where they're worth their weight. A light bag, no way. You can heft that thru a Gri-gri, ditch the pulley.


Thanks for sharing your experiences, j. You don't sound screwy at all to me, just a refiner. Go, man...



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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2009, 07:08:06 pm »
I have stayed with the original design throughout. Mostly because I'm not affluent enough to be buyin' every new doodad out there, but I also figured that others would try it out & let me know how it went & what their opinions were. Yeah, I like standards because they're cheap & simple.
I do like the notion of putting an adjustable on the pig, though. Tired of strugglin', don't cha know........

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2009, 12:01:56 am »
I'm weak, I haul all moves of self.  :)

good on moving between delicate pieces I've found, to lower out a bit at a time while taking up with the next piece.


adjusty on the haul pig is a sold deal for me. back that up with a munter mule, easy peasy to adjust the length of the haul line for lower outs.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2009, 08:40:43 am »
Thanks for the feedback.

I might take another look at using an adjustable for the pig, etc.

I've just seen a fish and yates adjustable to A. Datesman to test. There is a thread over on the taco about their true breaking strain. Some people are staying 300 lbs...


Offline Mike.

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2009, 09:32:27 am »
300 pounds, hmm. I think even if that low rating was real, it'd be fine for a haul bag dock. It's always backed up by the haul or let-out line.


Munge, why the mmule? The adjustable obviates the need for it. When it's time to lower, grab a quick M?nter on a pear (or slap the rope on your ATC or Gri off the anchor). And, dood, don't lie, I saw you pull 5.11 at Woodson. Poser!!!
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Offline Caz

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2009, 01:03:59 pm »
300 pounds my ass! I use the Yates and took a big static fall on one. I had them make me a pair with 5' webbing on them. I had it fully extended and was standing above the piece when the beak I was sitting on blew. I way 240 lbs and fell about 9 feet, that's way more than 300lbs...

I think the Metolious adjustables say they have a 300 lb rating, but that seems really low to me...
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Offline johnmac

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2009, 01:32:43 pm »
Yeah, I think the reference to the 300 pounds was the metolius adjustables. I'm sure the yates and Fish are much much stronger. They are going to get pulled so we will have some numbers soon.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2009, 03:01:54 pm »
Recently most of my stuff has had steep and/or traversing stuff where the adjustables shine.  Running solo training laps on merely vertical crap at the local crag I definately get annoyed with the adjustables, but I still just hate the fifi...

Offline Caz

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2009, 11:11:57 pm »
I've never tried traditional daisies but I love my adjustable daisies. I may try them out at some point but I think I'm going to try and use Kate's system out. It puts a bit of dynamic into your system and after my last fall it's kinda welcome.


Zac
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Offline lunchbox

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #10 on: August 20, 2009, 12:58:11 am »
Metolius web site says 300 lbf. but doesn't mention if this is the safe working load or maximum load.  There has to be a big safety margin built into that number.

http://metoliusclimbing.com/easy_daisy.html

Yates web site says daisy Strap tests to 1500 lbs.   

http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/etriers/index.htm#5

Divide the Yates rating by the Metolius rating and you get a 5 to 1 safety margin for both products using a pretty standard safe working load ratio.  Not to mention serious brain fatigue. 

« Last Edit: August 20, 2009, 01:02:05 am by lunchbox »

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #11 on: August 20, 2009, 08:05:16 pm »
woah. lunchbox.  My head, it hurts.

what i read out of it - - - - - >  fuck it, its safe.

Offline tomtom

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Re: Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« Reply #12 on: August 21, 2009, 10:41:03 am »
I took a daisy fall on a Metolius Adjustable and they are strong enough to mess you up.  I think I tore cartilage in my rib cage.

I started off with the Metolius, and I like that I can open the biner and extend the daisy with one hand/motion.

There's no one right system for everyone.  Just hurry up and finish your damn pitch cuz I'm bored belaying.