Author Topic: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes  (Read 2923 times)

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Offline johnmac

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Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 10, 2009, 08:34:31 pm »
Well, my test of using LaSportiva Tradmasters as a wall shoe failed.

The shoe has enough support lengthwise and wearing them a size larger than my normal shoes made them very comfortable, but the arch is where the issue was. The shoe is cut away under to the arch and even standing in yates ladders my arches were starting to get sore in a 10 minutes. A hour later I was tearing them off... I hate to think what they would feel like if I was using my light aider set up.

Putting inserts in the shoes didn't help either as they took up too much volume and started to cause problems for my toes...

I'm back to using my five tennies with inserts and carrying a pair of slippers for when I need to do free climbing that is above my comfort level in my sloppy shoes. I would really like to find something that I could do both in and avoid carrying an extra pair of shoes... Luckily I was able to recoop my costs.

So the quest continues for the perfect wall boot!
« Last Edit: August 10, 2009, 10:07:41 pm by johnmac »

skully

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2009, 09:18:59 pm »
Yeah, I do the same.....Although, on my last Wall outing, I didn't bring the slippers.
Wish I had. Those upper pitches (on the Perch) would've gone easier.
I find free climbing in approach shoes just a bit scary.

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2009, 12:48:53 am »
I am on my third pair of La Sportiva Cirque Pro's.  I have Barry of Barry's Resoles put "Wall Toes" On em.  this is a 5.5 MM 1/2 sole (smooth like a regular climbing shoe).  Then he puts a heavy duty rand on em.  To finish the makeover he adds seam sealer to all of the stitching.  This last pair has shown no signs of wear after 3 grade V's.  They really shined on Gold Wall, and I can bust some serious edges in those babies!

I also like my old pair of Mega's with the Vibram sole and half shank, kinda like a new wave Robbing Boot (incredible edging)





Offline Mike.

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2009, 09:13:31 am »
perfect wall boot = oxymoron

I'm also switching into light climbing shoes from approach shoes either for the pitch or a section. I'm resigned to the idea that free and aid foot needs are so different that one shoe covering it all is going to be a compromise.


Nice, mucci. The Cirques are notorious for short life, great way to extend them.

Yea, Mega Dru, a cool boot...I have a pair (size 43?) I need to find a good home for. Got em a tad too small. My size 10.5 and 11 feet are just a leetle too beeg. I'll style anybody who wants em.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2009, 09:50:11 am »
Anyone ever seen the boreal wall boots that Mtn Tools sells. They're expensive as hell but maybe they would work.  I'm sure you could get them from Europe for a good price once you had your sizing right.

Offline Mike.

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2009, 01:46:35 pm »
I've owned two pairs of the previous generation, the gray and red ones.

Pros:
Most protective aid boot ever; steel shank, no toe crush
Takes resoling well
Edges well (considering)

Cons:
Heavy
Hot
Ultra stiff; slab climbing next to impossible
Expensive
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2009, 01:58:21 pm »
Thanks Mike, you just saved me a bunch of money....

Offline Mike.

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2009, 02:08:44 pm »
Right on, John. And maybe saved you a trip to the burn unit. The gray ones are so hot, I cannot imagine the black ones. Winter use only?!
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #8 on: August 11, 2009, 02:27:10 pm »
I'm not sure why companies continue to make products without any input from testing or RD. Its like the evolve Maxim's, talk about a shoe that is specifically designed to cook your feet!


skully

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2009, 03:04:31 pm »
R & D is expensive, Paying customers will do the job for free.
Plus, they gotta pay the marketing & PR guys.
The whole shoe market is kinda skewed in a real strange direction. Really fine lines get discontinued, other less functional shoes get pushed hard......it makes little real sense.
Good luck on your quest. Let us know how it goes...........

Offline Mike.

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #10 on: August 11, 2009, 03:51:26 pm »
I think R&D often takes a back seat to getting product to market. Crazy and counterproductive as it sometimes seems...


The Waldo wall harness had no detachable rear risers initially. All it would have taken is for one person to have run the piece thru its intended use to plainly see this was a fatal error in design. Instead, I (and others?) contacted Metolius and within months the risers were detachable. Mind you, the previous generation was still being sold out. My buddy got duped into one at the Mountain Shop.

Same thing, as you say jm, with the Evolv Maximus. Not one fucking wall done in the shoes before they were touted as the be-all big wall shoe. Now discontinued in shame, perhaps due to a rogue review, hmmm?

This is straight up bullshit and should not be tolerated. We need to take these companies to task because we keep them in business.

And, DO NOT get me started about so-called gear reviews...you wanna talk bullshit? Big league, ass kissing, self serving bullshit? You've got it, right in our allegedly-reputable industry "news" rags and web sites. They will never produce any review which shows any product in a bad light. Keep the free swag, yo. The truth is worth a little bit more than whatever it is you're pimping this quarter.

Okay, I'm done now.

: )
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Offline xtrmecat

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #11 on: August 11, 2009, 04:31:04 pm »
  Very harsh Mike. But also very true. Sad isn't it?
  Bob

Offline johnmac

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2009, 09:07:19 pm »
Mike,

Yes, very true.

But, I will have to disagree with you in some regard to some gear reviews.. With the exemption of my latest review (Zion guide book, Chris sent me a free copy) all the reviews I've done over on mountain project, I have personally paid for the product and received no compensation...  That's included cams, such as c3's, TCU's, Fish products, etc. I haven't done much lately just because I haven't been able to afford to buy anything that would be interesting to readers. Reviews in the mags tend to be pretty weak.

John



Offline Mike.

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #13 on: August 12, 2009, 08:22:40 am »
John, I shouldn't pretend to know what's going on in all facets of climbing media. I only know what I've experienced. It's hopeful that MP doesn't toe the line of overt buddying up with manufacturers that obviously impedes balanced reportage.

I don't know about sad, Bob. It's no sadder than loose rock, fixed tat and nearby newbs. Gear that doesn't work is just another objective danger to be avoided.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Caz

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #14 on: August 12, 2009, 03:04:46 pm »
I really wish the Cirque Pro's were more durable. I wore through a pair the first wall I did but they were great while they lasted. I've been through a few pairs of them since. I've been using the Evolv's for a few walls and like them but just did a wall that was really hot and they SUCKED! I may try the Cirque Pro's again and just shoe goo them to hell...

I'm gonna keep using the Evolv's for when it's not too hot...


Zac
I do this for fun...

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #15 on: August 12, 2009, 03:48:36 pm »
Barrys resole's,  I am telling you, for 45 bucks , you get a WALL BOOT that climbs pretty hard.  40 pitches on walls, countless FA's with alot more abuse like major gardening and such, I barely notice the wear!  If you have blown out your Cirques, send them to Barry and ASk for the Wall toe.

You won't be dissapointed, I will post a picture of a pair without the resole and the pair I have that I mentioned above. 

A few friends of mine have had barry do em up and they can't believe the longevity!

As they are purchased, one maybe two walls......Not good enough.

Hope you give him a try, great work by an honest man!

Mucci

Offline Caz

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #16 on: August 12, 2009, 05:01:09 pm »
The pair I have are in BAD shape. The seams on the inside of bot shoes are blown out and the rand is coming off too.

Where is Barry located?
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #17 on: August 12, 2009, 06:02:23 pm »
I think he's a Fresno or Visalia guy.
If it's who I'm thinkin' of, he does good work.
Been a while. He's internet searchable, anyway.

Offline Caz

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #18 on: August 12, 2009, 10:28:05 pm »
So anyone got a last name or contact info on Barry the master resoler?
I do this for fun...

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #19 on: August 13, 2009, 01:02:14 am »
Caz- Give him a holler!

The seams on the inside are the first to go.  The manufacturer states that if you plan on climbing in them, you need to seam seal all of the seams.
I bet he could still restitch and repair the rands so give it a shot.

Barrys #559.855.4511

Tell him you want the wall toe

Offline johnmac

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Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« Reply #20 on: August 13, 2009, 08:43:28 am »
I wonder if he could do the same to five tennies?